Garmin 660 Zumo install - GL1800Riders
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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Garmin 660 Zumo install

I wouldn’t classify this as a step-by-step, but rather an enlightenment and tips/tricks narrative on installing a Garmin Zumo 660. This sub-forum seemed to be the most appropriate place to put this, though.

Please read it all and understand it before attempting to do this. I take no responsibility or liability if you follow this procedure. It is just what worked for me.


Bike work area:

  • Under the top shelter (remove)
  • Meter panel (remove)
  • Side cover for battery access

Specialty tools required:
  • Soldering iron
  • Light gauge wire to extend positive and negative leads
  • Shrink tubing
  • Zipties
Parts required:
  • Garmin 660 Zumo and cradle
Parts optional:
  • 4 Ice cold Guinness’
Time of repair:
  • Difficult to judge, but I would say between 3 – 4 hours. (Also installed Sirius)
Difficulty of repair:
  • (Scale of 1 – 10), I would put it at 2 for technical, and 2 for testing your patience
  • Cussword usage rating = 1

Photo and procedure credits:
  • Snowman
  • Documented by Snowman (Jeff)
Note: See Jon's response below this post for switched power options instead of direct to battery.


My Garmin Street Pilot III wasn’t cutting it anymore, so I purchased the Garmin Zumo 660. As I was preparing to install it, I also remembered my Sirius Sportster 2 was having serious issues, so I bought a Sportster 5 and installed it at the same time. (Sirius install steps to follow later)


So in this surgery, I replaced the top 2 units with the lower 2 units:





Here we go again. If you are comfortable working under the top shelter, this is a piece of cake. Be prepared to dig in this deep:







First thing to do is remove the seat, the meter panel and the top shelter – in that order.


Tip: The bolts under the fairing trim (thin pieces) are all different sizes, as I remove them, I put them in a piece of cardboard like this… then they go back where they came from:





After I got everything removed, and also pulled the side covers so I had battery access, I mounted the cradle onto the RAM mount to the handlebars. I didn’t document that portion of this as I already had a RAM mount there for my SPIII. I just laid the cable down alongside the handlebar and decided how I wanted to route it and how much slack I need to be able to turn without tugging the cable.




Basically at this step, you are just figuring out your routing options. Lay the cable without threading it behind anything. Get a picture in your head what you will want to go behind, in front of underneath, etc. Then consider if those areas are pinch points of any kind.


Now that you have the route figured out, time to solder more length to the leads.
I don’t comprehend why Garmin only gives you about an inch of leads after the in-line fuse. At this point is where you will want to solder another 5 inches onto the pos/neg leads. I also used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder joint.


Once that is done, time to thread the cabling back to the battery.
The power lead - I ran behind the big wiring harnesses, down along the gas tank, underneath the seat support (where the front of the seat latches under), then under the tube frame and out to the battery. Where you see the arrows split, the left arrow is the power leads going to the battery and the right arrow is the 3 jacks That I did the U-turn with back under the pocket.




Sorry the above pic is so zoomed in. This is directly under where the left storage pocket would be.



I don’t use the intercom system on the bike, so I decided to run the cable down alongside the pocket and put it in the niche where the intercom cable would normally come out beside the pocket.





The Zumo 660 cabling has the usual pos/neg power leads (with in-line fuse), and 3 other jacks for USB, and audio. I decided to do a U-turn with those 3 jacks and just store them under the pocket for now. (See Jon's response below for other options)



Here are the 3 jacks:





Here’s a pic with the leads and in-line fuse where I am about to go under the tube frame and out to the battery. You can also see where the heat shrink tubing is.





Thread the leads and the inline fuse to where you want them. In the pic below you can see the final resting place I have chosen:





You are probably noticing all the various colored zipties I have going on. I use this system to identify various wires and the components they go to. In the case for my Garmin Unit, the hot pink ziptie heads get put on the entire length of cabling at the in-line fuse, the pos/neg lead, about mid-length on the cabling and again near the component end. 2 years from now when I look under the top shelter, I can easily trace that wire without even touching it and know immediately what it goes to.


You can see more about that here: http://www.jeffswing.com/Electricalpage04.html


Attach your power leads and put the GPS into the cradle. If everything was done correctly, the GPS will power up immediately. Key is not needed if you connect it the way I did. If you want switched power, you need to do it differently.


Anyway, as long as you have power, you are ready to secure the wiring. Really all you need to do is make sure you have enough slack so that you can turn lock-to-lock without stressing the cable. I ran mine down the left handlebar and used a Velcro strap to secure it in place.


Button ‘er back up. Don’t forget the right pocket is the locking pocket… get that cable into place before you close that door.





Right now I am not using any of the 3 jacks, so I just stored them under the left pocket. If you intend to use them… continue on.

Finished product:



'02 Illusion blue
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 11:25 AM
Jon
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Good job, Jeff.

One thing to note for those that don't want to wire the unit directly to the battery is that you can run the power/audio cables under the LH pocket and tap into switched power at the ACC power plug (available on all models).

In addition, this also puts the audio pigtails near the AUX input and the headset connector, for those who want to add cellphone operation to their system.

Running the power from the ACC plug puts the installation time at an hour or less (for just the Zumo).

Thanks for detailing your installation - it should help others.


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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice, Jon! It is well received. I updated my original post pointing people to your reply if they are interested in switched power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
In addition, this also puts the audio pigtails near the AUX input and the headset connector, for those who want to add cellphone operation to their system.
Just a note, running the wires to the battery still allows the audio pigatils to be near Aux. I have those pigtails curled up under the left pocket.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 11:42 AM
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Snowman, looks great. I am curious on how did you mount your XM radio. How is it fastened to the bike? Details and may be pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbenazeraf View Post
Snowman, looks great. I am curious on how did you mount your XM radio. How is it fastened to the bike? Details and may be pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks.
It is actually a Sirius radio. Sportster 5. Here is a pic of the mount. I bought this a few years ago at Best Buy. I think it was labeled as a universal mount. It does tilt and swivel. I bent it into the shape that I needed, then under the meter panel, below where the key goes, I have it double-sided taped and 2 screws holding it down. Solid mount with a bit of flexing to it, but not enough to make it bounce around.


'02 Illusion blue
www.jeffswing.com
More than just farkles.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon View Post
Good job, Jeff.

One thing to note for those that don't want to wire the unit directly to the battery is that you can run the power/audio cables under the LH pocket and tap into switched power at the ACC power plug (available on all models).

In addition, this also puts the audio pigtails near the AUX input and the headset connector, for those who want to add cellphone operation to their system.

Running the power from the ACC plug puts the installation time at an hour or less (for just the Zumo).

Thanks for detailing your installation - it should help others.
After tapping into the AUX input, that enables the GPS audio to be routed through the speaks? I run my mp3 through the AUX, so I'm not at all sure this is going to work. So is there some kind of over ride if the radio is on? I'm totally challenged with this.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 11:42 AM
Jon
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This might be worthy of a separate post so we don't hijack Jeff's installation thread, but the 'simple' installation method allows you to connect the GPS audio to the AUX input so that you can listen to the GPS audio output over the speakers (or helmet headset) when the AUX input is selected on the audio unit.

If you want to be able to hear the GPS audio while listening to another audio source (like the AM/FM/WB/CD functions, or if you have an MP3 player already connected to the AUX input), you'll need to connect the GPS to the intercom system through an isolation device, like a Kennedy CellSet system.

There are solutions available for connecting the GPS to both the AUX input and the intercom for flexibility, as well as to share the AUX input between multiple input devices.

Feel free to PM me or start a new thread if you want more info on these 'other' installation options.


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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 01:02 PM
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So out of curiosity Jeff, how do you like your 660 Zumo? I've been looking at GPS units and have kind of settled on a Zumo 550 simply because I've been reading about glitches in the 660. I would feel by now that Garmin has updated the firmware and the glitches taken care of. How is yours working for you?
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2009, 09:50 AM
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Mine took like an hour to mount without removing anything but the left hand pocket, I tapped into the aux power supply and put a splitter on the aux cable so it will play thru the speakers or earphones and still be able to use my XM which is mounted on the right hand resovoir cover with a hoon mount

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2009, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07Wing View Post
Mine took like an hour to mount without removing anything but the left hand pocket, I tapped into the aux power supply and put a splitter on the aux cable so it will play thru the speakers or earphones and still be able to use my XM which is mounted on the right hand resovoir cover with a hoon mount
Always the eternal question, when the gps come up, does it over ride into the speakers? So if ya have the mp3 plugged, over ride gps option?
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