I wouldn’t classify this as a step-by-step, but rather an enlightenment and tips/tricks narrative on installing a Garmin Zumo 660. This sub-forum seemed to be the most appropriate place to put this, though.
Please read it all and understand it before
attempting to do this. I take no responsibility or liability if you follow this procedure. It is just what worked for me.
Bike work area:
- Under the top shelter (remove)
- Meter panel (remove)
- Side cover for battery access
Specialty tools required:
- Soldering iron
- Light gauge wire to extend positive and negative leads
- Shrink tubing
- Garmin 660 Zumo and cradle
Time of repair:
- Difficult to judge, but I would say between 3 – 4 hours. (Also installed Sirius)
Difficulty of repair:
- (Scale of 1 – 10), I would put it at 2 for technical, and 2 for testing your patience
- Cussword usage rating = 1
Photo and procedure credits:
- Documented by Snowman (Jeff)
Note: See Jon's response below this post for switched power options instead of direct to battery.
My Garmin Street Pilot III wasn’t cutting it anymore, so I purchased the Garmin Zumo 660. As I was preparing to install it, I also remembered my Sirius Sportster 2 was having serious issues, so I bought a Sportster 5 and installed it at the same time. (Sirius install steps to follow later)
So in this surgery, I replaced the top 2 units with the lower 2 units:
Here we go again. If you are comfortable working under the top shelter, this is a piece of cake. Be prepared to dig in this deep:
First thing to do is remove the seat, the meter panel and the top shelter – in that order.
: The bolts under the fairing trim (thin pieces) are all different sizes, as I remove them, I put them in a piece of cardboard like this… then they go back where they came from:
After I got everything removed, and also pulled the side covers so I had battery access, I mounted the cradle onto the RAM mount to the handlebars. I didn’t document that portion of this as I already had a RAM mount there for my SPIII. I just laid the cable down alongside the handlebar and decided how I wanted to route it and how much slack I need to be able to turn without tugging the cable.
Basically at this step, you are just figuring out your routing options. Lay the cable without threading it behind anything. Get a picture in your head what you will want to go behind, in front of underneath, etc. Then consider if those areas are pinch points of any kind.
Now that you have the route figured out, time to solder more length to the leads.
I don’t comprehend why Garmin only gives you about an inch of leads after the in-line fuse. At this point is where you will want to solder another 5 inches onto the pos/neg leads. I also used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder joint.
Once that is done, time to thread the cabling back to the battery.
The power lead - I ran behind the big wiring harnesses, down along the gas tank, underneath the seat support (where the front of the seat latches under), then under the tube frame and out to the battery. Where you see the arrows split, the left arrow is the power leads going to the battery and the right arrow is the 3 jacks That I did the U-turn with back under the pocket.
Sorry the above pic is so zoomed in. This is directly under where the left storage pocket would be.
I don’t use the intercom system on the bike, so I decided to run the cable down alongside the pocket and put it in the niche where the intercom cable would normally come out beside the pocket.
The Zumo 660 cabling has the usual pos/neg power leads (with in-line fuse), and 3 other jacks for USB, and audio. I decided to do a U-turn with those 3 jacks and just store them under the pocket for now. (See Jon's response below for other options)
Here are the 3 jacks:
Here’s a pic with the leads and in-line fuse where I am about to go under the tube frame and out to the battery. You can also see where the heat shrink tubing is.
Thread the leads and the inline fuse to where you want them. In the pic below you can see the final resting place I have chosen:
You are probably noticing all the various colored zipties I have going on. I use this system to identify various wires and the components they go to. In the case for my Garmin Unit, the hot pink ziptie heads get put on the entire length of cabling at the in-line fuse, the pos/neg lead, about mid-length on the cabling and again near the component end. 2 years from now when I look under the top shelter, I can easily trace that wire without even touching it and know immediately what it goes to.
You can see more about that here: http://www.jeffswing.com/Electricalpage04.html
Attach your power leads and put the GPS into the cradle. If everything was done correctly, the GPS will power up immediately. Key is not needed if you connect it the way I did. If you want switched power, you need to do it differently.
Anyway, as long as you have power, you are ready to secure the wiring. Really all you need to do is make sure you have enough slack so that you can turn lock-to-lock without stressing the cable. I ran mine down the left handlebar and used a Velcro strap to secure it in place.
Button ‘er back up. Don’t forget the right pocket is the locking pocket… get that cable into place before you close that door.
Right now I am not using any of the 3 jacks, so I just stored them under the left pocket. If you intend to use them… continue on.