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How to tighten leaking coolant hose clamps

46K views 43 replies 32 participants last post by  Mikeelikesit  
#1 ·
Live and learn... and sometimes you gotta improvise...

I wrestled with the 6 coolant hose clamps under the gas tank and I finally got them all tightened. Ironically, I didn't see any evidence that coolant was leaking from any of these clamps, but I tightened them a bit anyway, being conscious not to over tighten them, which could be worse than them being loose. It's a tricky job, but it can be done.

I didn't want to loosen the clamps and spin them like Fred did... I figured if I could get to them to loosen them, I might as well tighten them on the spot and not have to worry about the clamps rubbing other stuff. I read a post this morning by Blind Yak, and he did the same thing I did for the most part:

Blind Yak said:
Those top fittings are kind of hard to get to the adjuster. I ended up using a 1/4 in drive ratchet to reach around to the back side of the hoses because the adjuster was on the bottom. Even harder to reach is the second set of hose fittings below the top set of clamps and the rubber sheet.
I did consider disassembly of the upper set to get to the lower clamp set. I ended up using a nut driver and manhandled the upper set of hoses to get the nut driver to the lower set of clamps to tighten them. Luckily for me, the adjuster screws for the lower clamps were in a more convenient orientation.
I too used a 1/4" ratchet... a short stubby one for the lower clamps and a regular one for the uppers. It's a 6mm socket for all the nuts. Clamp screws that are easily accessible can be tightened with a phillips head screw driver. I used a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter on my stubby to give it the bit of extra length that was needed to reach under some of the hoses. That caused the potential for dropping small tool parts into the HONDA HOLE, so I rigged a shop rag under my workspace as a drop cloth, as you'll see in some of the pics below. Here's the tools:
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And here's the hose clamps. I numbered them in the order I did them and for purposes of these photos.
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Here's photo's of tightening each clamp so you can see the orientation of the wrench in that tight space. I disconnected a plug that's in there so I could get more "swing" on my ratchet. I don't know what the plug is for, but you'll see it in the pics.

The real secret behind this job is "manhandling" the hoses. I found that as they warmed up from me fighting with them for a while that they became more flexible. Don't be afraind to bend them and push them out of your way to get your wrench on the nuts. There's a thick wire harness in there too that you have to move around.

Clamp 1 - This one is easy:
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Clamp 2 - For this one I had to jam my stubby ratchet in under some hoses, and I didn't want the socket or socket extender to drop off into the black hole, so I worked a shop rag in there. Then you can "feel" where the clamp nut is, and I grabbed the rag at the nut with a pair of needle nose pliars and cut a small hole in the rag with scissors. I then exposed the nut through the hole and felt alot better about not loosing tools:
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And here's the stubby on the nut so I could turn it:
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Clamp 3:
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And the wrench on clamp 3:
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The upper 3 were realatively easy, but I still had to bend the hoses to get the socket on the nut. Clamp 4:
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Clamp 5:
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Clamp 6 - back to the stubby:
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I then made it a point to find as many other coolant hose clamps that I could find exposed on the bike and tighten them. This was the only one I found with evidence of leaking... and I hope that was the only leak. This one is on the left side of the bike just inside the gear shifter. I had to remove the exhaust guard to get to it.
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Don't forget to re-connect that plug!
I hope this helps!
Good luck!! 8)
 
#3 ·
Did you all have any issues in pulling the tank to access the hoses? It's on my short list of maintenance items for this year along with a Progressive rear spring change and shock service.

Thanks in advance, and yes I have Fred's videos.
 
#6 ·
Soloquest, thanks for the detailed instructions and photo's, very helpful. You have a very disturbing Avatar photo.

Kurt:congrats:
 
#8 ·
Soloquest, Well done. I used a pressure tester to apply 15 PSI

overnight while fuel tank is was out. Ended all leaks on our 03.

galewing
 
#9 ·
Maybe I just missed seeing it; but you seem to have ignored the other large 3-way fitting that resides just inboard of the rubber drive shaft boot and just above the coolant recovery tank on the right side of the bike. This is another common "leaker" and if it seeps, the splash fall directly onto the cat. converter and stinks fiercely. Same fitting as the big one under the fuel cell.

See the parts fisch under heading "WATER PIPE" to see the upper tripple fitting as #4 and then refer to the heading "RADIATOR" to see the lower triple fitting as number 21.

prs
 
#10 ·
Did you all have any issues in pulling the tank to access the hoses? It's on my short list of maintenance items for this year along with a Progressive rear spring change and shock service.

Thanks in advance, and yes I have Fred's videos.
I been wondering the same thing I wanted to pull the tank without removing the Battery. I coul dnot figure it out, but not spend to much time on it.

I did replace my Rear spring without having to do so, but would like to learn
to remove the tank to check these hoses.

I think Rocky knows how.
 
#13 ·
Did you all have any issues in pulling the tank to access the hoses? It's on my short list of maintenance items for this year along with a Progressive rear spring change and shock service.

Thanks in advance, and yes I have Fred's videos.
I didn't really have any out of the ordinary issues... just the typical issue of that gas tank being in there real snug and having to wrestle it out a bit. I didn't remove the battery, but did loosen it up so it would move aroundn. Then, just strong arm that tank out of there. Don't be afraid of it.

I highly recommend the use of Fred's videos and the service manual.
:cool:
 
#14 ·
Great post.....thank you!

Has anyone ever counted the total number of hose clamps this bike has for the coolant hoses? It would be a handy number to have if one were to endeavor to check them all.

TIA!
According to the parts fiche (2007/Radiator) there are 16 clamps of 3 different part numbers.

16 clamps---why would you suspect a leak???
 
#15 ·
Did you all have any issues in pulling the tank to access the hoses? It's on my short list of maintenance items for this year along with a Progressive rear spring change and shock service.

Thanks in advance, and yes I have Fred's videos.
Tk,

After removing the bolts holding the tank in place, remove the plugs & hoses on top,one of the hoses goes to a fitting with 2 -8mm headed screws, I remove the screws & pull the fitting out of the cavity, it has an O-ring on it so you may have to work it back & forth a bit. Depending on how long it's been since the bike was running it may spray some fuel at you. After the fitting is out, I push in a small cork to prevent any fuel from sloshing out while removing the tank. Then, standing on the sidestand side of the bike, I lift the tank up & roll the top away from me. There is a bulge in the tank at the right rear corner that sticks through the frame rails, it prevents you from lifting it straight up, by rolling the tank, the bulge comes inside the rails & you can lift it out. It's much easier to do than to describe.

Good Luck

Sleddog
 
#16 ·
Sleddog: Thanks for the details. It's still a bit cold and snowy to work out in the garage at the moment. So my project is on hold.

Tim
Tk,

After removing the bolts holding the tank in place, remove the plugs & hoses on top,one of the hoses goes to a fitting with 2 -8mm headed screws, I remove the screws & pull the fitting out of the cavity, it has an O-ring on it so you may have to work it back & forth a bit. Depending on how long it's been since the bike was running it may spray some fuel at you. After the fitting is out, I push in a small cork to prevent any fuel from sloshing out while removing the tank. Then, standing on the sidestand side of the bike, I lift the tank up & roll the top away from me. There is a bulge in the tank at the right rear corner that sticks through the frame rails, it prevents you from lifting it straight up, by rolling the tank, the bulge comes inside the rails & you can lift it out. It's much easier to do than to describe.

Good Luck

Sleddog
 
#17 ·
PRS,

Do you have to remove the tank to access those clamps or is there another access?

Hector

Maybe I just missed seeing it; but you seem to have ignored the other large 3-way fitting that resides just inboard of the rubber drive shaft boot and just above the coolant recovery tank on the right side of the bike. This is another common "leaker" and if it seeps, the splash fall directly onto the cat. converter and stinks fiercely. Same fitting as the big one under the fuel cell.

prs
 
#19 ·
Soloquest,
I have a "moldy smell" when I 1st start the bike, haven't seen any green juice on the floor or shown a loss in the tank, but, I bet a hose is leaking somewhere in the "hole" :eek:4:
the odor will go away after a few minutes, this is on my list of things to do this winter & do a coolant service also.
thanks for the detaled pics, I also have Freds video's.
 
#21 ·
HBravo,

Its a tight place with lots of frame and such in the way. Maybe bet a really skinnly, long armed person to help. I got to mine from underneath by setting the bike on jack stands and removing the coolant recovery tank.

prs
 
#22 ·
According to the parts fiche (2007/Radiator) there are 16 clamps of 3 different part numbers.

16 clamps---why would you suspect a leak???
Believe it or not; the Radiator fisch does not even show half of them. Many more are shown on the fisch titled Water Pipe.

prs
 
#23 ·
Believe it or not; the Radiator fisch does not even show half of them. Many more are shown on the fisch titled Water Pipe.

prs
Geez, you're right.

The "Water Pipe" parts fiche counts another 16 clamps. Brings the total to 32 (at least)

The drips and the resulting smell, while not pleasant, I could live with if I had to. But what scares me is the idea that with all these loose and leaking clamps, a hose could, on a hot day, perhaps when the bike is real hot, like when it has just been turned off after riding, or when stuck in traffic, slip off and dump out all of the coolant, stranding me in the middle of nowhere.

Which may be an argument for converting the coolant to one of those non-aqueous propylene glycols, like Evans NPG or the AMSOL equivalent. Might prevent that by not pressurizing the cooling system.

And if one is going through the bike tightening those clamps, might not be a bad idea to print out both the "Radiator" and "Water Pipe" fiches, circles each clamp on the drawings, and draw a line through them when you tighten each one to make sure you get them all.
 
#24 ·
FYI, when I took the gas tank out of my 2009 bike, I found that not only has Honda now repositioned the hardware on the hose clamps at the top, but that they also were all tightened properly from the factory.

Seems like enough folks have complained about this that they have finally done something about it.
 
#25 ·
FYI, when I took the gas tank out of my 2009 bike, I found that not only has Honda now repositioned the hardware on the hose clamps at the top, but that they also were all tightened properly from the factory.

Seems like enough folks have complained about this that they have finally done something about it.
Maybe Honda got tired of paying the dealers for fixing something that should have been done right in the first place :sad: !