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What weight engine oil do you use in your Wing?

63K views 66 replies 44 participants last post by  goldwing fan 
#1 ·
Manual says 10W-30 - do you run 10W-40 and if so why? I would think the thicker oil might be better for shifting and if you live in a really hot climate. What oil comes from the factory - 10W30 Honda dyno oil I imagine? I read awhile back and don't have the article that Honda oils tested very poorly for quality and I found that interesting. I will most likely go with Mobil1 Motorcycle oil 10W40 (run it in my Valkyrie and have had good luck)

Thanks,

Mark
 
#2 ·
Oh my,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,:popcorn:

Use what you want. the owners manual in my 08 says 10-30 OR 10-40, some vary but use what it says (or close). Change it every 8K ish and enjoy the bike.
 
#3 ·
#5 ·
Honda full-synth (10W-30) is blended by Idemitsu in Indiana; the Mazda (rotary) racing team in Japan was very impressed by it for NO wear on the rotary race engines after tons of abuse. Almost the same exact oil, less the moly content. Works great in MY GL1800.

Honda now recommends 10W-30 for most temp ranges.

Any quality motorcycle-specific (non energy/resource conserving) oil that meets the specs in the owners manual will work just fine. :yes1:
 
#11 ·
First break in oil change coming at 1,000 miles (Almost there), then going to 10-40 Syn AMSOIL, plus change the rear end to AMSOIL syn oil at the same time.

I am from the oil school of oil knowledge and to change the oil & rear end at 1,000, to get all that crud oil out.
 
#13 ·
The mechanic I use that's been working on'em for 35 years recommended 10-40W (said the 10-30 was something they did to get better mileage and to be more green or eco freely but he recommended 40w because he thought it was better for the bike). He also said (and this just his opinion! :>) to give the bike appox 4K miles before going synthetic for break in. And he recommended Amsoil 10-40w for that too). He also said if you didnt mind changing oil more often regular oil would do fine.... especially if you dont drive enough to change it every year (since you should change it at least annually no matter what).
 
#15 ·
Come springtime I am going to give Moby 1 15W-50 a try. I have used it for 17 years in my PC800 with no complaints. It is within the range that Honda recommends for the GL1800 so I'm going to give it try. I know that my bike seemed to like the Moby 1 5W-40 diesel formula but not sure that I will be able to tell any difference.
 
#16 ·
Oil

In my 06' Wing or my new Harley.. I only Run this. Not cheap but great stuff =

Unlike many so-called synthetics, Spectro Platinum Synthetic is a true synthetic, crafted on a batch-by-batch basis from modern Group IV PAO ( polyalphaolefin ) synthetic base Stocks.You can't buy a better Oil !

Platinum Full Synthetic is the ultimate synthetic engine lubricant. Exceeds all known motorcycle manufacturer’s warranty requirements, plus A.P.I. SG/SH/JASO MA. Smoother shifting, reduced friction, increased horsepower, highest shear stability. For street or track.


 
#17 ·
Hey Guys and Gals,
It's mAR. 2 already. The winter oil thread has expired. Answers to all additional questions can be found in your owners' manual. Additional answers posted here are to be ignored. Sae 'em 'till next winter.
 
#18 ·
NO NO NO !!! :eek:4:

1. Rear-end oil in the GL1800 contains moly from the factory, and is supposed to be left in until the first change interval as specified by the owners manual! DO NOT change it prematurely, regardless of your "old school" notions.

2. Changing the engine oil/filter before the specified 4k (first change) is totally unnecessary; the modern materials and refined production tolerances of today combined with the totally under-stressed GL1800 power plant and today's oils make 4k before changing very reasonable.

Enjoy your ride.






First break in oil change coming at 1,000 miles (Almost there), then going to 10-40 Syn AMSOIL, plus change the rear end to AMSOIL syn oil at the same time.

I am from the oil school of oil knowledge and to change the oil & rear end at 1,000, to get all that crud oil out.
 
#19 ·
The mechanic I use that's been working on'em for 35 years recommended 10-40W (said the 10-30 was something they did to get better mileage and to be more green or eco freely but he recommended 40w because he thought it was better for the bike). He also said (and this just his opinion! :>) to give the bike appox 4K miles before going synthetic for break in. And he recommended Amsoil 10-40w for that too). He also said if you didnt mind changing oil more often regular oil would do fine.... especially if you dont drive enough to change it every year (since you should change it at least annually no matter what).
I'm not taking issue with the opinion of the mechanic but do point out that metalurgy, machining techniques/tolerances, oil chemistry, engine management systems have evolved considerably in 35 years. I would stick with the engine manufacturer's recommendations regarding viscosity range and oil chemistry specifications.
 
#20 ·
I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Motorcycle racing 4T oil, 10W-40. Currently on sale at Advance Auto Parts for $7.99 qt. Buy online and pickup in store, get 20% off. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ilters--mobil_1_oil_filter&utm_campaign=mobil 1 oil filter&utm_content=broad

Edit: appears the 20% off does not apply to the oil sale price, but does apply for filters, etc. Code P20.


Thanks ...got mine ordered for pick up today.....However..... you can only get 4 qts at that price.

Mark
 
#22 ·
Oil?? uh oh.....more mischief....Lol.

I have come to the conclusion as I get older that light oil is a good thing. You see I have to carry it to the shopping cart , then to the bike or jeep....all the carrying it around is tiring and I do wish to conserve energy.....

I figure light oil is good oil. :twisted:

Kit
 
#23 ·
AMSOIL 10w-40 Motorcycle oil. Transmission shifts much smoother and quieter than with the Honda GN4 oil or the Shell syn 5w-40. In fact I drained the blue jug Shell oil slightly under 1000 miles of use. My Valkery did good with the Shell oil, my Goldwing not so good. I know clean oil is always the best kind and my only intent was to quieten the Honda Clunk on shifting. I've only driven with the AMSOIL slighly over 1100 miles. Transmission is still smooth and many times I can go thur the gears without any shift noise, so far zero Clunks.
 
#24 ·
AMSOIL 10w-40 Motorcycle oil. Transmission shifts much smoother and quieter than with the Honda GN4 oil or the Shell syn 5w-40. In fact I drained the blue jug Shell oil slightly under 1000 miles of use. My Valkery did good with the Shell oil, my Goldwing not so good. I know clean oil is always the best kind and my only intent was to quieten the Honda Clunk on shifting. I've only driven with the AMSOIL slighly over 1100 miles. Transmission is still smooth and many times I can go thur the gears without any shift noise, so far zero Clunks.
I suggest that you only install motor oil in goldwings that meets the specifications cited by Honda in the Owners' Manual in the viscosity range that is appropriate for the climate and season, internet rumors and sales pitches not withstanding.
 
#25 ·
I suggest that you only install motor oil in goldwings that meets the specifications cited by Honda in the Owners' Manual in the viscosity range that is appropriate for the climate and season, internet rumors and sales pitches not withstanding.


I sugest that you use whatever oil you choose in YOUR Goldwing....oh yeah..that's right.......


Those who don't ride....preach :roll:

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#26 ·
I sugest that you use whatever oil you choose in YOUR Goldwing....oh yeah..that's right....... :roll:. .
It certainly will not bother me if you pour milk of magnesia in your motorcycle engine crankcase. It might even be a good idea in your case. :joke::joke:

Seriously, I trust engine manufacturers' recommendations with respect to lubrication requirements.
 
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