1/4 Mile Drag Strip Pointers - Page 2 - GL1800Riders

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post #11 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 10:15 PM
pbird49
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I think your serious, so I asked my brother-in-law who loves to burn the rears. He says rev to 4000-4500 rpm, dump the clutch then immediately give it a very fast pump to keep the nose down. Know where the rev limiter kicks in so you can predict when to shift.
Wings will wheelie, but you risk your pipes and other rear end parts, so try not to do it.
Oh, and don't go until the light turns green

Pat
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post #12 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 10:17 PM
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My guess

12.5 sec @115 MPH

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post #13 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 10:20 PM
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Re: 1/4 Mile Drag Strip Pointers

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Originally Posted by FUSE
This Sunday I will be taking The Hornet to a local 1/4 mile drag strip and see what I can do. This will be my first time ever doing this. Can anyone give me some tips on what to do and not to do at the track? Any and all pointers would be appreciated. Thanks much everyone.
I'm not sure I would subject my Wing to the drags but if you are serious....

1) Find out what the optimum shift points are (RPM) and try to upshift as close to those as possible. One trick we used to use was using the kill button instead of the clutch, i.e., shift with no throttle change, just kill the engine monentarily. This will probably not work with the stock Wing as there is no kill button. And it will raise **** with the tranny if you do it wrong. You might also think about starting out in 2nd vs 1st gear and slipping the clutch to keep revs up. First gear is very low and you might wheelie - not a good thing on the Wing.

2) Set tire pressures on the high side and the shock preload a bit high as well. This assumes you won't be trying to burn the rear tire. If you're not afraid of maximum tire bite then reduce the rear tire pressure and burn it before launching.

3) Coming to the line examine the track carefully. Watch for anything slippery (sand, oil dry, water, antifreeze, oil etc.). Dropping the hammer hard on the Wing could send it sideways if the rear tire is on something loose - guaranteed to soil your shorts.

4) Reduce your gas supply to the minimum required, i.e., not more than 1 gallon and preferably less. And empty out side and rear bags.

Come back and post your times. I'd be interested to know. Oh, and change your oil afterward. And say a prayer for your clutch.
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post #14 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 10:41 PM
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11.9 sec. @ 121 mph

Follow tuna's advice, but make sure to avoid the bleach box, and if you do roll through it accidentally make sure you do a burn out (yes, you can hold the front brake just hard enough to hold the bike while the rear brake caliper isn't exerting enough pressure to prevent the rear wheel from turning) to clean off your tire before launching down the strip.


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post #15 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 10:44 PM
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1. Stay out of the water box and don't bother with a burnout. You are just wasting your tire and its totally not necessary with a street bike. (unless the staging lanes have sand/gravel in them and then only the spin the tire enough to clean the crap off of it not put heat in it and waste the tire)

2. The light you will most likely be using is not a pro tree with .400 time but a .500 tree used for bracket racing. Before your run watch the other racers as the tree goes down. It will start after both vehicles pre-stage and then stage. Do not wait for the green light or your reaction time will be terrible. Most newbies wait for the green and if you do you'll see your reaction time is over a second. A perfect light is .500 seconds so you must anticipate the green. Do this by leaving on the last yellow before the green. By the time the power gets to the rear wheel after the clutch engages, the shaft drive and suspension absorb some "GO", and the bike squats you will not red light believe me.

3. I have never done drag strip type launches with this bike so I can't tell you what RPM to leave at but I would experiment with 2500 or so and go up or down from there. You'll know right away if it was the right RPM because the bike will either bog or be a little difficult to manage. Don't bang the rev limiter because the bike will loss power between shifts this way. Instead get a feel for when the power tapers off in the power curve and shift at the peak of the torgue curve.

4. I wouldn't be to concerned about any unintentional wheelies as the bike has a wet weight of around 850 lbs plus the weight of the rider and a very long wheel base.

5. Take any junk out of your trunk and saddle bags to reduce weight.

6. Ignore the other rider when staging if someone is over there revving up their bike tune it out and watch your side of the tree only.

7. There is a lot more traction available at the track than on the street due to the traction compound that is sprayed on the track for the cars. The cars also leave some rubber near the start line with agressive launches. You will notice this increased traction right away when you set your boot down in the area of the start line. I would line my bike up in one of the wheel paths of the cars, whichever side is closer to the tree in the lane you are in to take maximum advantage of the available traction.

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post #16 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 11:36 PM
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G2rich: Where did you come up with that ET and MPH. Was this a running start? No way in **** is that GL1800 going to see a 11.9 ET and A 121 MPH. Unless it was off a cliff!
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post #17 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 11:47 PM
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Hey GL1800GSXR1000

Wanna bet? lol

Pat
post #18 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-19-2005, 12:50 AM
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Re: 1/4 Mile Drag Strip Pointers

Quote:
Originally Posted by FUSE
This will be my first time ever doing this. Can anyone give me some tips on what to do and not to do at the track?
I've ran my Wing through the traps several times. Here's what I do.

1.Lighten the bike as much as possible
2. Make sure your windshield is all the way down
3. Run about 35 lbs. in your rear tire, 44 lbs. in the front
4. Don't ride through the "burnout box", ride around it and back the bike up. Do a nice smoky burnout and get that rear tire hot and sticky.
5. Choose a nice sticky lane and point the bike STRAIGHT down the track.
6. Don't even look at your opponent (if you have one) you are out there on your own. Just look straight down the track.
7. Go ahead and inch the bike up to the staging line
8. Flip your visor down and pre-stage.
9. Just barely inch the bike forward and when you trip the staging light that's far enough. You just want to be a hair in front of the first trip.
10. The bike should be in 1st gear. Run the bike up to about 4500 RPM and just let the clutch barely grab.
11. More than likely you will be on a .5 sec tree, so when you see the last yellow light flash... HAMMER IT!
12. By the time you dump the clutch and get your feet up (approx 2 sec.), you will need to slam second gear at approx. 6700 RPM. At this time you will be pulling a wheelie for about the first 100 feet or so, don't worry you'll never notice or feel it as you'll be too busy concentrating on shifting.
13. After your launch you now should have enough time to watch the tach and slam through the gears. Let it go a tad bit past redline and shift, do not let off the throttle. Just keep it WFO!
14. If all goes well and you make a decent pass, your times should be in the 12.8 to 13 sec. range depending upon track conditions, elevation, and your reaction times. You should turn anywhere from 100 to 103 mph.
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post #19 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-19-2005, 01:19 AM
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[quote="Gladiator"Where did you come up with that ET and MPH. Was this a running start? No way in **** is that GL1800 going to see a 11.9 ET and A 121 MPH. Unless it was off a cliff![/quote]

That time was posted last fall at Great Lakes Dragway, Union Grove, Wisconsin. It was the fastest of 5 times I tripped the lights. I got the idea to see what the bike could do on the track after a riding buddy and I want to Honda Homecoming and ran the dyno drags on our '03's. On the dyno I was consistantly running 11.2 et at 129 mph, factor in the loss due to added wind resistance at the track and a 11.9 is possible, on a .500 tree and a RT of .542.

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post #20 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-19-2005, 01:54 AM
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Somebody's been smoking some good sh*t...

Quote:
Originally Posted by g2rich
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladiator
Where did you come up with that ET and MPH. Was this a running start? No way in **** is that GL1800 going to see a 11.9 ET and A 121 MPH. Unless it was off a cliff!
That time was posted last fall at Great Lakes Dragway, Union Grove, Wisconsin. It was the fastest of 5 times I tripped the lights. I got the idea to see what the bike could do on the track after a riding buddy and I want to Honda Homecoming and ran the dyno drags on our '03's. On the dyno I was consistantly running 11.2 et at 129 mph, factor in the loss due to added wind resistance at the track and a 11.9 is possible, on a .500 tree and a RT of .542.
Give me a fricking break... WTF is it with you wingers and your fairytale drag race times. You guys who think your all mighty Gold Wings will bust a 12 sec. quarter mile should put your money where your mouths are and give me some action!

An 11.9 ET @ 121 MPH... man I want some of whatever the **** you've been smoking dude!

"g2rich"... since you seem to be the "pro racer" here, I'll be the first to step up to the plate and put my money where my mouth is... I've got $1000 that says you can't even come close to hitting a 12.5 sec. ET let alone an 11.9!

"EdH"... I'll give you the same action. $1000 says you can't nail a 12.5 ET.

You guys pick the track and I'll show up. Maybe I'll rent a VROD to make it interesting. Pick a REAL RACE TRACK! Not one of those "fairytale" dyno drag machines either!
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