Squeals on the GL2WAY - found some reasons - GL1800Riders

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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Crossville TN
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Squeals on the GL2WAY - found some reasons

This is one of those general info threads for those who are experiencing squealing with their GL2WAYs but didn't have issues with Honda stock CB's.

Background. Couple of different bikes, one worked fine with a stock Honda CB in it, started getting squealing after upgrading to Pete's GL2WAY. Other bike, intermittent issues. Work fine one day, next start out okay then as the ride progressed squeals, breakups, all the sort of stuff that seems to happen in my marriage also .

Solution: On the bike that was upgraded - turns out with Pete's unit having a higher modulation, the J&M MP3-bluetooth system the previous owner had installed in the CB cubby with the stock system was now picking up the increased modulation of the GL2WAY and pumping it back into the audio system as a squeal. Now the best way for me to describe higher modulation is think of your tv set. You're watching a show and then the commercial comes on. Now the broadcaster doesn't suddenly pump more power into their signal, but the commercial does have a higher modulation and therefore now blasts you out of your easy chair. Not the best analogy, but it works for this thread. So, getting some squeals - get the junk out of the trunk. Also be aware of passenger headset cable routing near the antenna lead.

On the intermittent bike, there were some hours involved here. Had an Electrical Connection's audio booster. Nice unit, (could use a gain adjust on it) but acts like an antenna receiver for the GL2WAY. Route it well away from the CB system. Next, the ground strap for the CB antenna that goes from the back of the antenna mount and bolts into the bottom of the trunk. The one that was in there looked okay until it was pulled and inspected. Originally installed by the dealer when the passenger arm rests were also installed. But, the paint around the bolt holes was never removed, so only the inside of the bolt hole was making (intermittent) contact. Replaced with a properly surfaced ground strap.

Accessory wiring. Looked nice in the trunk, had a nice fused terminal block. With all the wiring, both the positive and the negative leads, going from the trunk to the items located in the front of the bike and back again. Acted like one nice, big loop antenna for the CB system. If you're going to power accessories - highly recommend a fuse block. Can save your bike's electrical system from major meltdown. But try and put the fuse block up where the accessories are if possible to limit the number of power leads running the length of the bike. And you don't need to run the negative ground return lines of all the accesories back to the accessory fuse block - put a grounding point up at the accessory and ground to the frame. Worst case, install a grounding block and run just one lead (properly sized of course) back to the accessory fuse block.

Wire nuts and quick-connects (also known as quick-fails). Good for quick proof-of-concept wiring of items, but once you determine your idea will work, put in proper connections. Saves some troubleshooting time tracking down intermittent items.

Excessive cable lengths - try to limit to what you need to do the job and a bit extra in case you have to move an item around for whatever reason. Anything above that acts - again - like an antenna that picks up your CB and feeds it back.

Realize this is a bit simplistic for a lot of you, but if it helps even one person...

And thanks to Pete of BIKEMP3 for his assistance.

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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 09:17 PM
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Location: florida
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I have a GL2way and was experiencing a squeal with the first few transmissions on PTT switch then rest of the day it would work perfectly. Then my right turn signal was not working properly. Turned out to be my left control tower which house cb switches, radio volume,blinker, navi controls ect. Had that replaced and have not heard that squeal again. I hope your squeal is not this because it was about a $1,000.00 fix. My volt meter always shows 14.6-14.8 And when I had the blinker failure it showed 14.1 13.9 with fogs on. With controls changed right back to 14.6-.8


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