+1 on this. I finished this project yesterday, rebuilding the fork, installing new Progressive springs and disabling the ADV. All done and I simply love the ride, so much better now. I also replaced the front pulser ring which was totally rusted.
You will need the Service manual also, and it is available online as a PDF file here:
Download and use without moderation !
The great advantage of Fred H.'s videos is to show the steps and the inside, without doing the actual work and getting your hands dirty. It gives you an idea of the project, a list of necessary tools, and a scenario.
Basically it boils down to:
Removing the front fender, wheel side covers, fork protector, front brake system (without opening it), front wheel, rear of front fender. Don't forget to adequately strap the center stand and jack the bike
Removing the front panel and the black plastic part looking like a Batman symbol off the top bridge.
The draining bolts are inside the fork legs masked by the front wheel axle, 6mm socket, and TIGHT wit Loctite if OEM, so be prepared to have a spare set with washers. Have a good solid long allen wrench socket, mine is from Harbor Freight.
If you envision a simple change of fluid and/or springs, the forks can stay on, no big deal. As I was rebuilding them, I found it easier to take them out and work on them at home. I do not have a garage, meaning I work in the street or in my apartment
It may be a good occasion to inspect and change the seals if necessary, maybe change the bushings, up to you. My choice was to go for the big one, as my bike needed it. The PO was not great with maintenance, and the dust covers looked suspicious to me. And, man, I was right: t'was time to do somethin' on those... I found the seals' stop rings almost soldered to the fork leg groove
, and that the idiotic mechanic shop where I had my tires changed just screwed back the front axle bolt way over torque specs... The old oil was also nasty, really nasty.
Fork oil depends also on your preferences, Honda genuine SS-8 or else, including Mobil 1 Synth. ATF, which I used and it seems to work very well (cheaper too here in NYC). You'll need also something to really clean the legs inside.
One thing I could add to those "entertaining" videos is the home-made seal driver I have now. It comes from a T union of white PVC, 1"-3/4 inside diameter, that was sawed off in the length on each side of the short middle arm and filed proper to drop the burr. It worked wonders, and gives a great leverage to drive the upper bushing and seal in place. I almost did not use my rubber mallet on it. Instead of a MightyVac, I used a basting pipe, marked at 5", 5"-1/4 and 5"-1/2 for adjusting the oil level.
The whole ting went on for 2 days, mainly due to the fact I had to get that *(^%#@#$% axle bolt cracked loose at my car shop. They were nice enough to lend me a 7/8 wrench to get it back on and off at home.
Have fun !