2006 GL1800 ( Ours )
2007 DL650 ABS ( she thinks it's hers, but it's MINE )
2004 DR200SE ( Hers )
2001 VLX 600 ( retired )
1991 250L XR (Hers)
1983 250R XL ( His )
1974 CB360 ( retired )
2000 4 X 4 Rancher ( Hers)
2000 4 X 4 Rancher ( His )
All from the same people who brought to you
" Pearl Harbor"
Id like to know what type oil you use to refill actuator ,Im going to service it tomarrow if Im not recalled to work tonight.
Thanks for advise
To refill the actuator.
1) Place the bike on center stand.
2) Start the bike and lower your presets to "0'.
3) Remove the seat and side covers.
4) Remove the rear fender.
5) Remove the three bolts inside the right saddlebag.
6) Remove the bolt on the outside upper right of the saddlebag to the frame.
7) Now tilt out the bottom of the saddlebag and let it rest there-You do not have to disconnect anything further!
8 ) Now remove the 2-12mm & 1-10mm bolts from the Actuator securing it to the frame.
9) Now with a pair of needle nosed pliers-squeeze the push in cable holder for the Grey connector.
10) Now you can remove the other connector from the Actuator.
11) Now using brake clean,Spray the area at the banjo bolt/hose so it is clean-You'll be making marks on it there!.
12) Now with a sharpie-make a dot on the top of the banjo "Fitting".So you'll know which end is up later on!.
13) Now make a small line right under the dot you just made to the actuator body.What you are doing here is marking the Orientation of the banjo fitting to the actuator body!. Making Sure you put it back in the same place-this is Important so the hose doesn't get kinked when the actuator is bolted back on the frame later!!.
14) Now you can remove the 10mm banjo bolt from the hose.
15) Either with a helper or duct/masking tape-try and keep that end of the hose as high as you can so fluid doesn't drain out of it while you continue to the next step.(I run the tape up from the hose to the truck if working by myself!)This keeps the hose out of my way for the time being.
16) Now with a thin screwdriver,Insert it into the banjo bolt hole in the actuator,and push the seal piston down with a little pressure until it bottoms out.If you feel or hear it move?.Then try to push it down again until it stays down!.You're trying to fill as much of the actuator reservoir as possible here!.
17) Now you are ready to refill the actuator.it only takes a couple ounces to top it off.I use SS8-10wt oil.
18 ) Once you have it topped off,Now replace the hose according to the marks you made earlier.
19) Now before you bolt it back on-"Test it first"
20) Plug both connectors back in the actuator,an start the bike.
21) Listen for a "Sound" pitch change as you add presets.Once you hear it change sound-Let the button go,and look at the dash-If it's at "0" then you are done,If it at 1 or more.repeat the last steps to add a tad more fluid.
That was the first thing that came to my mind too. Then I remembered that it is a shock too with dampening so the weight of the oil is important.
Greg, help me out here. That confuses me a bit.
I thought that the actuator system that sets the preload on the spring is a completely separate hydraulic system from the actual shock absorber (damper unit) itself. I don't believe that any of the oil that is in the actuator system ever sees the inside of the actual shock absorber. It only mechanically sets the spring preload. The shock looks like a sealed damper unit just like a standard shock on a car, and it's damping rate never changes other than by wearing out of the internal components or a leak.
Am I all wet here, or am I right about these two system being completely separate from each other in regards to the hydraulic fluid in each?
2006 GL1800 - Arctic White
1987 GL1200A - Black/Gray
1976 GL1000 LTD - Candy Special Maroon
1971 CL100S Scrambler - Blue/White
U.S. Navy SWO (1967 to 1976)