Rocky Brake Bleed - Page 2 - GL1800Riders
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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 02:01 PM
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Had the Rocky Bleed done yesterday by Rocky himself. A nice stiff brake pedal was the result. What a difference it makes having all the air removed out of the system.


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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 06:21 PM
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Will air still get trapped in the system if the master cylinder reservoir is never allowed to go dry and a vacuum pump is used at the caliper?

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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Metalman, I'm no expert, but just as our brake fluid will take on water ( I assume it gets by the seals at the pistons) air probably gets in as well. There are folks that say they don't like to use a vaccum pump to bleed brakes because they feel that air can be sucked in past the threads on the bleeders ( Fred Harmon included).
The problem arises when the air goes up to the high point (which is at the block where we do the Rocky Bleed)
The Rocky Bleed is easy to do, and is getting good results by those that have done it.
I have used a vac pump to bleed my brakes, but I've gone to Speed Bleeders, and I'm glad I did!

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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Wing One View Post
Attachment 34878Attachment 34879
I did the Rocky brake bleed using this hinged flare nut wrench I purchased at Princess Auto (equivilant to your Harbor Freight in the US).
It worked great!
Thanks Rocky!

PS; The brake pedal is firmer!

You can order a 4 piece set from Princess. I did.
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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 02:01 PM
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For anyone who has a low and consistant peddle but wants a high one, all that needs to be done is too manually push the caliper pistons in, and then pump the master cylinder until firm again. That will cause the cups to extended to their most outer position while the inner o-ring is in its most "neutral" position. As brakes wear, it is normal for the high to low and back to high peddle to occure. It's kind of the same thing as adjusting the drum brake by turning the star adjuster.

Try it and see how high the peddle/lever gets.

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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 06:27 PM
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Will air still get trapped in the system if the master cylinder reservoir is never allowed to go dry and a vacuum pump is used at the caliper?
IF there is no air trapped in the system, then careful "purging" should yield an air free job. Notice I made that a big IF. I would think that Honda follows their own procedures. If so, I would expect to encounter some air already to be trapped in these trouble spots. Even when using a vacuum tool to purge or refill the system, the final step is to bleed with the lever and peddle.

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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
For anyone who has a low and consistant peddle but wants a high one, all that needs to be done is too manually push the caliper pistons in, and then pump the master cylinder until firm again. That will cause the cups to extended to their most outer position while the inner o-ring is in its most "neutral" position. As brakes wear, it is normal for the high to low and back to high peddle to occure. It's kind of the same thing as adjusting the drum brake by turning the star adjuster.

Try it and see how high the peddle/lever gets.


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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
For anyone who has a low and consistant peddle but wants a high one, all that needs to be done is too manually push the caliper pistons in, and then pump the master cylinder until firm again. That will cause the cups to extended to their most outer position while the inner o-ring is in its most "neutral" position. As brakes wear, it is normal for the high to low and back to high peddle to occure. It's kind of the same thing as adjusting the drum brake by turning the star adjuster.

Try it and see how high the peddle/lever gets.
Huh?
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 08:56 PM
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I've worked with hydraulics for many a year - I agree the post didn't make sense to this poor feeble mind of mine.

The old star adjuster on drum brakes took up the mechanical slack caused by the wear of the brake shoe. The brake shoe always returned to non-engaged position due to the springs connected to the brake shoes. As the shoes wore, the clearance between the shoe and the drum increased, causing the brake pedal to have to travel further to engage the shoes against the drum. The star adjuster was a lead screw that physically moved the shoe closer to the drum to lesson the travel distance required of the brake pedal.

Disk brakes do not have a similar system. The only return travel that occurs on the brake pads is caused by the slight lateral run-out of the rotors. Therefore the brake pedal does not have to travel to make up a large distance between the pad and the rotor. Rocky's fix removes air from the system. Air is compressable, so when you press on the pedal you are compressing the air, and have to move the pedal farther to compress the air enough to build up the pressure needed to push the pads against the rotor. Remove the air, don't have to have excessive pedal travel to apply the brakes. Pushing the caliper pistons in then pumping the pedal does nothing but move the pistons back out.

edit: P.S. - long description for those of us that haven't worked on brake systems before - not trying to insult anyone.

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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 09:55 PM
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Huh?
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Originally Posted by ssncob View Post
I've worked with hydraulics for many a year - I agree the post didn't make sense to this poor feeble mind of mine.

The old star adjuster on drum brakes took up the mechanical slack caused by the wear of the brake shoe. The brake shoe always returned to non-engaged position due to the springs connected to the brake shoes. As the shoes wore, the clearance between the shoe and the drum increased, causing the brake pedal to have to travel further to engage the shoes against the drum. The star adjuster was a lead screw that physically moved the shoe closer to the drum to lesson the travel distance required of the brake pedal.

Disk brakes do not have a similar system. The only return travel that occurs on the brake pads is caused by the slight lateral run-out of the rotors. Therefore the brake pedal does not have to travel to make up a large distance between the pad and the rotor. Rocky's fix removes air from the system. Air is compressable, so when you press on the pedal you are compressing the air, and have to move the pedal farther to compress the air enough to build up the pressure needed to push the pads against the rotor. Remove the air, don't have to have excessive pedal travel to apply the brakes. Pushing the caliper pistons in then pumping the pedal does nothing but move the pistons back out.

edit: P.S. - long description for those of us that haven't worked on brake systems before - not trying to insult anyone.
Didn't mean to confuse anyone with the drum brake adjustment analogy. Just try it ... spead all that pads apart and then with the caliper mounted inplace, pump the 2 brake master cyliders to close the gap between the rotors and the pads.

Make a mental note of how high/low the hand or brake lever is first. When done, the brakes will most likely be higher.

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