Rocky Brake Bleed - Page 3 - GL1800Riders
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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 08:18 AM
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Here is a better write up of how it happens.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...h-brake-peddle

Advice is like cooking ... I always try it before I feed it to others !!!
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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 08:36 AM
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Greg no offense pumping any hydrolic brake system will raise the pedal and be a temp fix. but a proper fix is to bleed air from the system as stated above

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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 08:56 AM
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Greg no offense pumping any hydrolic brake system will raise the pedal and be a temp fix. but a proper fix is to bleed air from the system as stated above
If you are refering to my link above, it should not be confuse with a brake system that is not fuctioning properly. Such as one that has a low/inconsistant peddle vs one with a consistantly low peddle. It is not a repair ... its a way of "adjusting" disc brakes, but it's done hydrolically instead of turning a star wheel as in a drum brake. Just like with a drum brake system, we'd never want to adjust brakes to over come other braking problems. I also wrote it for ones not understanding how pads relax and pulled back into their "neutral" position (I'm trying to be carefull with how I'm useing these words I am putting in quotes).

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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
If you are refering to my link, please don't confuse a brake system that is not fuctioning properly with one that is. My write up assumes there are no other braking problems and for someone with a properly fuctioning braking system and just wants a high pedel.
Well like has been said, there is Cat Nip in the bottle. A fully functional brake system that has a low or mushy pedal simply has air in it.

End of story.

Pushing the pistons back and then pumping them back to original position only puts them back to original position.

Pumping them may temporarily lift the pedal and firm them up, but soon it is back to acting up. Hanging bricks off pedals, pumping pedals and praying to the VooDoo Woman only brings more of the same.

The only cure for Cat Nip syndrome is to get the air out of the system.

Cat Nip.......
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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 09:31 AM
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Well like has been said, there is Cat Nip in the bottle. A fully functional brake system that has a low or mushy pedal simply has air in it.

End of story.

Pushing the pistons back and then pumping them back to original position only puts them back to original position.

Pumping them may temporarily lift the pedal and firm them up, but soon it is back to acting up. Hanging bricks off pedals, pumping pedals and praying to the VooDoo Woman only brings more of the same.

The only cure for Cat Nip syndrome is to get the air out of the system.

Cat Nip.......
I think we are talking about 2 completely different things .... mushie is usually another word for air. Air gives an inconsistant peddle ... just like the word discribes ... mushie. Low and consistant are a different symptoms then mushie and inconsitant. On an integrated braking system like ours, when we feel our peddle, it must be judge at 0mph to tell the differance. What I am suggesting is done all the time when new pads are installed and no bleeding done. People just associate the higher peddel with the new pads.

Advice is like cooking ... I always try it before I feed it to others !!!
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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
I think we are talking about 2 completely different things .... mushie is usually another word for air. Air gives an inconsistant peddle ... just like the word discribes ... mushie. Low and consistant are a different symptoms then mushie and inconsitant. On an integrated braking system like ours, when we feel our peddle, it must be judge at 0mph to tell the differance. What I am suggesting is done all the time when new pads are installed and no bleeding done. People just associate the higher peddel with the new pads.
Nope I am speaking of Cat Nip. Chuckle.

Just pulling your chain........come on grin.

My pedal is high and firm all the time. I do know that using a vacuum bleeder which I do sometimes results in a low pedal due to air stuck in the system that somehow does not get all the way out......actually really do not know why it happens only that it does. So after all the fluid is transferred and renewed, I just do a manual bleed too and this always takes care of that.

I use the power pressure bleeder to quickly renew the fluids, then do a manual bleed right quick and have never had any problems. But for some reason the vacuum bleed does allow that problem of low pedal sometimes. Have really never figured out the why, only know it happens.

I am better than Fred, my legs are longer so I can reach the rear pedal with my toes while working the wrench on the bleed fitting. A small diameter rope tied to the front brake lever lets me work that......leg is not quite long enough and my toes will not curl around the lever.
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 10:08 AM
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Nope I am speaking of Cat Nip. Chuckle.

Just pulling your chain........come on grin.

I am better than Fred, my legs are longer so I can reach the rear pedal with my toes while working the wrench on the bleed fitting.
I guess I am one of the lucky ones ... every thing that hangs on me is long. It helps make up for ones on the back seat with short arms

As for the vacume method. The air can get in around the threads of the bleeder. You are doing it correctly by manually bleeding as a last step ... it gets any induced air out.

Advice is like cooking ... I always try it before I feed it to others !!!
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
Here is a better write up of how it happens.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...h-brake-peddle

You didn't write that!. It's Grammatically correct. you are not! "Google" maybe?. because you have no clue I suppose!

Quote:
Originally Posted by laen View Post
Greg no offense pumping any hydrolic brake system will raise the pedal and be a temp fix. but a proper fix is to bleed air from the system as stated above
He doesn't get it. But he's fun to watch self destruct..LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
If you are refering to my link above, it should not be confuse with a brake system that is not fuctioning properly. Such as one that has a low/inconsistant peddle vs one with a consistantly low peddle. It is not a repair ... its a way of "adjusting" disc brakes, but it's done hydrolically instead of turning a star wheel as in a drum brake. Just like with a drum brake system, we'd never want to adjust brakes to over come other braking problems. I also wrote it for ones not understanding how pads relax and pulled back into their "neutral" position (I'm trying to be carefull with how I'm useing these words I am putting in quotes).
Ahh back to your terrible spelling.





Cap Nip in your tea is what I see.

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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 11:04 PM
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My little pea brain says....there is a alternate method of bleeding brakes that applies pressure at the bleed valves, instead of vacumn, and this "pressures forces fluid up to the master cylinders.

Unfornately, cannot advise where to buy one of these "pumps" that attach directly to the bleeders.

Anyway, this thread was not intended to detract from the most excellent suggestions and comments about the Rocky Method....I am just wondering if this pressure method would do the same thing?

EDIT Try this link. this is great for lazy types like me. http://www.brakebleeder.com/bleeding-brakes/

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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 12:24 PM
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Reverse bleeding is almost certainly going to face the same sink trap problem. The forced fluid will course under the air pocket. Almost all the nasty stuff first collects at the bottom anyway, I would not want to push that upward.

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