Rocky Brake Bleed - GL1800Riders
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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Rocky Brake Bleed

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I did the Rocky brake bleed using this hinged flare nut wrench I purchased at Princess Auto (equivilant to your Harbor Freight in the US).
It worked great!
Thanks Rocky!

PS; The brake pedal is firmer!

Check out my lift!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJmE0ZdZhyU



2012 Level 3 C\W 2013 Lehman Monarchll-LLS
Komoka, Ontario, Canada
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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 09:02 PM
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I looked in Harbor Freight here in Florida and could not find one like yours. I will have to look at Princess when I get back to London.

Wayne

USAF 1960-1964
2004 GL1800 Candy Black Cherry

I'm a geezer

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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 10:53 PM
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Tooltopia has this one.. $12.00, doesn't have the offset though...
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-81687.aspx

Larry Price
Edgewood, WA

I run Hybrid Tires....
Front: Bridgestone Exedra G709 130/70R-18
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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 06:05 AM
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OK, I have to ask... what's the "Rocky brake bleed"? Or should I ask Rocky?

-- Jim --

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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 06:34 AM
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It's nothing more then properly bleeding brakes. When brakes are bled, all air has to be removed. Sometimes a common bleed at the calipers is not good enough and the system requires more attention. Sometimes that means cracking a hose at the back of a master cylinder, or at the hose going into a caliper ... etc. Sometimes that means dismounting a caliper and holding it higher then the master cyliner so the air rises to the caliper for proper bleeding. Proper bleeding is doing what ever it takes to get all air out of the system.

On some systems like ours, and with how our tubing/hoses are routed, it is easy for air to get traped in various places. One of those is at the hose/tube connections near the steering head ... it is a high point in the routing. Many of these problems are induced by improper bleeding methods such as speed bleeders or vacume pumps. The symtom is low/inconsistant peddle.

In posting #238 http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...+brake+shutter, SC-Wing posted how a friends Wing was fixed trying to solve a rear brake shutter. He posted what a Honda mechanic needed to do to get the air out of the system. When cracking a hose connection near the steering air was found. A short time later, Rocky did the same and proclaimed a fix to a known rear brake sutter problem. Which is probably true for the ones with air trapped in the system. For the rest of us, it is not so true.

For the rest of us with properly maintained braking systems, and with no air in our systmes, we occationally experiance rear brake chatter on hot days. We've had to learn proper braking is the only fix. According to Honda, proper braking requires using front and rear brakes simotaniously.

Advice is like cooking ... I always try it before I feed it to others !!!
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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Wingleader09 View Post
OK, I have to ask... what's the "Rocky brake bleed"? Or should I ask Rocky?

Here you go Jim. http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...ot-Solved-quot
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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:07 AM
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Great stuff! Thanks Rocky!

-- Jim --

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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
It's nothing more then properly bleeding brakes. When brakes are bled, all air has to be removed. Sometimes a common bleed at the calipers is not good enough and the system requires more attention.


This was your first post above before you edited it.


Sometimes that means cracking a hose line at the back of a master cylinder, or hose connection, or at the hose going into a caliper. Sometimes that means dismounting a caliper and holding it in a higher position then the master cyliner so the air rises to the caliper for proper bleeding. Proper bleeding means doing what ever it takes to bleed all the air out of the system.

On some systems like ours, and with how our tubing/hoses are routed, it is easy for air to get traped in various places. One of those is at the hose/tube connections near the steering head. Many of these problems are induced by improper bleeding methods such as using speed bleeders or vacume pumps. A system having air will have a low/inconsistant peddle.

SC-Wing posted how a Wing was fixed in posting #238 http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...+brake+shutter. He posted what a Honda mechanic needed to do to get the air out of the system. He cracked a bleeder and found air near the steering head. A short time later, Rocky did the same and proclaimed a fix to a known rear brake sutter problem. Which is probably true for the ones with air trapped in the system. For the rest of us, it is not so true.

For the ones riding on a hot days, with properly maintained braking systems with no trapped air and a rear chatter not caused from air in the system, we've had to learn proper braking is the only fix. Proper braking requires using front and rear brakes simotaniously.
The point being here-Is why couldn't you or anyone else or Honda for that matter figure it out before I stumbled onto it.

Only Honda and a fool would tell someone with a shudder to "Apply both brakes at the same time" It was said because they couldn't figure it out!

There is air in the system "Get it out" and your shudder will be gone!


And BTW:
Stop reading my threads if I'm on your ignore list. It defies the purpose of having an ignore list in the first place.
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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:30 AM
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Great stuff! Thanks Rocky!

You're Welcome Jim.
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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 08:58 AM
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It is amazing that Honda did not and may not still recognize the source of this common complaint. The procedure works, and works so well that my brake peddle is higher than I would like or at least higher than I m accustomed to on this or other bikes, but it does not drag so all is well.

Telling folks that the only proper braking procedure is to use both brakes at the same time regardless of the situation is not true at all. Use that front brake during slow tight maneuvers and be ready to recover from a near fall or fall. Certain techniques in the mountain twisties will have the savy rider occasionally using the front or rear independently (in so far as the linked brakes allow on this bike).

I, too, thank Rocky for introducing this bleeding sequence to us and my hat is off to his Honda tech friend who gave him the tip about the initial extra step for bleeding that led to the discovery of a solution to the rear brake shudder.

prs


2002 Black Standard Brakes "TE MEGA MONTY"

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