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"Reverse" switch won't stay in after lubing.

12K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  FIRE UP 
#1 ·
Gents,
Well, I've got a small problem. As usual, like many on here, some of the handlebar switches stick in the IN position after a long time of non-use and, you push them in, only to find they stay in. Well, I didn't check back on here to find the threads about spraying certain lubricants in or, around them but, I thought it might have been silicone.

So, I sprayed some silicone in my Reverse switch outer perimeter and, while it seemed to help, it was not perfect. I then sprayed some WD-40 in the same area. Well, not only does it pop out without issue now, IT WON'T STAY IN, AT ALL!!! Iv'e tried and tried, pushing it at an angle, (with a little sideways push) maybe a bit of up or down nudge, anything, but, that reverse switch will not stay in.

It's still funtional. If I push it in and, hold it, the reverse light does come on and, with my left hand, reach over and push the starter button, it will engage reverse and, the bike moves backwards. But, the second I let go of the reverse button, it pops right back out.

My question is, is there anything I can spray in there, from the perimeter, that will sort of, CLEAN out the back side of that switch, to make the barbs or, what ever kind of locking mechanism there is, re-engage when called for? I sure appreciate any help here.
Scott
 
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#12 ·
Old wives tale and Internet BS. I have used WD-40 to keep motorcycle switches clean and functional since 1970. Never experienced any of the negative issues claimed on the Internet. Just out of curiosity, tried a contact cleaner once after reading the Internet BS. Didn't work any better, if as well, and was more expensive.
 
#3 ·
It does no good to spray that type of switch from the outside. It sits within it's own individule switch housing 1/2" within the outer switch assembly. Either the entire assembly needs replaced, or the lower housing needs opened and the reverse switch cleaned and lubed once disassembled.
 
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#4 ·
IT WON'T STAY IN, AT ALL!!!


My question is, is there anything I can spray in there, from the perimeter, that will sort of, CLEAN out the back side of that switch, to make the barbs or, what ever kind of locking mechanism there is, re-engage when called for?

Here is a link that will show you how to take the switch housing and reverse slider apart so that it can be cleaned and re-lubed with silicone.


While you are in there, do the cruise control switch too. My cruise switch popped out during a very long ride and would not STAY IN.


http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/reverseswitch


Good luck and be very careful not to lose any of the tiny parts that tend to jump out. Best way is to take the switch apart inside a plastic shopping bag.


gramps


.
 
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#5 ·
The WD-40 did its job and freed a stuck switch. Right now you're in better shape with a switch you have to hold in rather than a switch you can't release. You might have some luck with contact cleaner and some compressed air blasting before you do the disassembling thing.
 
#6 ·
As gramps has said - the only way to properly correct your problem is to disassemble the switch, clean the old grease out and use a spray lubricant (NOT WD-40). Unless you're experienced, disassemble in a ziplock bag to prevent searching for the small return spring. And as he said, do the other switches while you're in there. I've had to do many a bike switch, it's not an uncommon problem.

 
#7 ·
switch

If you have been pushing harder and harder to try and free the switch. You may have bent the small wire inside. If you take it apart (in a plastic bag as suggested) check to make sure the bend in the wire is at a 90 degree angle. Any more than that and the wire will not track in the groove correctly.

Lots of little parts in there. If you lose any you have to buy the whole handlebar housing.

Rayjoe
 
#8 ·
Hey gang,
I surely appreciate all of you taking the time to respond here. Been working on our Jeep the last few days so, the bike is now the priority, especially since the weather is turning a bit warmer and provoking me to take some rides. I don't use reverse all that often 'cause I don't want premature wear on the starter if I'm still able push backwards with my 63 year old legs. Once I get to that point, I'll be using reverse more. But, I'll try the contact cleaner first, but, like the experts on here say, it probably won't do any good since it's a switch, within a box so, the lube and stuff is not getting to it. But, It sure helped by spraying either the Silicone or, the WD-40 'cause it doesn't stick in the "ON" position at all now. I'll keep everyone informed on when and how I fix this issue. Thanks again.
Scott
 
#9 ·
I don't use reverse all that often 'cause I don't want premature wear on the starter if I'm still able push backwards with my 63 year old legs.
Don't be afraid to use reverse. In fact, not using it has probably caused your switch to not function properly. If those switches are not used on some sort of regular basses, what you are experiencing will happen.

Just and FYI ... no matter how often you use your reverse, it will never equal the use a trike owner puts his through. For the most part, trike owners are always using them and backing up with a bigger pay-load that you will probably ever put on yours. For the most part, our starters and reverse system are very reliable.
 
#10 ·
The switch assemblies on the Wing are probably the cheapest part of the bike and many of them will give likely end up giving you trouble, especially if your bike is over 10 years old. Although we all like to fix things both for the satisfaction of doing so while saving money, IMO the best thing is to simply replace the switch assemblies on both handlebars. They are about $150 each, and may save you major headaches when you are 1000 miles from home in some little town in the middle of nowhere.

I did the left bank several years ago and will be doing the right bank in the spring. When I leave on a trip, I want the bike to be in the best condition it can be always.....
 
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#15 ·
I have a 2012 Goldwing with same problem. Reverse switch does not engage. I took it apart and cleaned everything with CRC contact cleaner. Getting it back together is the tricky part because the back side of the switch box is connected to wires in the handle bar. You can't reassemble it on a work bench. You have to have steady hands to get it back together. Wife had to help and after all the aggravation, the switch would still not engage. Took it apart again and tried to bend the end of the "tail hook" rod to make it 90 degrees as a blogger suggested. I also tried to adjust the bend on one of the copper pieces that rides on a little spring so that it would stay in the hole to make reassembly easier. Bad idea. I broke it! I broke the sucker. I just can't believe how incredibly fragile this design is and how expensive it's going to be to replace a $5 part. Honda should be ashamed.
 
#11 ·
See if just dropping down the lower part of the housing which allows you to access the innards will help you. A wash with WD40, which is a solvent, followed by some CRC contact cleaner might help. If you decide to remove any switches, ALL screws are #2 PHILLIPS regardless of their apparent size.

>CLICK ME<

 
#13 ·
Well gang,
I've been busy doing other things lately like working on our Jeep and, well, I took the Wing out to get some parts and, yep, the reverse switch is still on the fritz. I hate it when things don't work the way they're supposed to. We have family visiting this weekend so, no chance to mess around with it then.

I'll have to jump on it after they all leave. The weather here is starting to shape up very nicely and, I want to get out and ride. A bad reverse switch won't hold us back but, I'd sure like it to work normally if and when I need it. Thanks again for all your coaching and help here. I will try and drop the lower part of the switch housing and see what I can see.
Scott
 
#14 · (Edited)
I agree with the previous post that there is nothing wrong with using WD40. The advice is based on myths and urban legends.

And these are not cheap switches. This design is used in some of the most expensive equipment you will find anywhere. It is an industry standard design that has been successfully used for decades. That is evidenced by the fact that they never break or actually fail due to a defect. They simply don't like dirt, and especially sand. If anything, that just makes them a bad choice for this application. Manufacturers should not be using latching type switches on a motorcycle.

You probably have a piece of sand or something in the switch that is lodged in the cam channel that the pin rides in. Washing it out just moved the contamination from one part of the channel to another. Normally the debris gets washed away where it won't cause any more trouble, but not always.

Taking it apart is always the sure way to solve this problem, but you could try spraying it again.
 
#16 ·
I took the assembly apart and cleaned and lubed the switch. Now it's sticking again.. I did the same job on the Hazard switch and it still works fine. I think I'm just going to replace the entire Right assembly as my Cruise is stuck on also..


How bad of a job is it to replace? Should I just take it to my mechanic?
Been researching the price, 207.80 with Free shipping from HDL


Bike is a 2006
 
#19 ·
The job isn't real difficult. The worst part is disconnecting the large connector in the front. It is difficult to see how the connector is attached to the support bracket.

The connector, along with four others, is located on the right side up under the dash board. Just about under the speaker area. A bit tight if you have large hands. Just take special note of how the cable is routed and follow the same route.

Took me about an hour once the top shelter was off.
 
#17 ·
I have to do that myself in the coming weeks for the exact same reason (2003).When I asked the same question, others on the forum have told me its not much of a problem. With the tupperware removed anyway to change the air filter, its a pretty simple matter. Four of the connectors are right at the handlebar, and the large green one is down inside the front part of the bike. I am told its easy to see once the bike is apart. Take photos as you take the bike apart to make sure it goes together the same way. And disconnect the battery before you start to play around with the electrical system.

I had to replace the whole bank of switches on the left a few years ago and I think it cost me about $150. The right switch assembly as I remember, also cost me about $150 US. Either way, IMO its probably best to switch these out rather than jury rigging individual fixes, since these are the cheapest and most trouble prone part of a Goldwing. If fixed, there is no guarantee they wont go again. But there are solutions on the forum if you dont want to spend the money....

When you think of the cost, think of being 1000 miles from home, in the dark, in a storm, and your reverse switch gets stuck on. Suddenly it doesnt sound so expensive...
 
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#18 ·
I have to do that myself in the coming weeks for the exact same reason (2003).When I asked the same question, others on the forum have told me its not much of a problem. With the tupperware removed anyway to change the air filter, its a pretty simple matter. Four of the connectors are right at the handlebar, and the large green one is down inside the front part of the bike. I am told its easy to see once the bike is apart. Take photos as you take the bike apart to make sure it goes together the same way. And disconnect the battery before you start to play around with the electrical system.

I had to replace the whole bank of switches on the left a few years ago and I think it cost me about $150. The right switch assembly as I remember, also cost me about $150 US. Either way, IMO its probably best to switch these out rather than jury rigging individual fixes, since these are the cheapest and most trouble prone part of a Goldwing. If fixed, there is no guarantee they wont go again. But there are solutions on the forum if you dont want to spend the money....

When you think of the cost, think of being 1000 miles from home, in the dark, in a storm, and your reverse switch gets stuck on. Suddenly it doesnt sound so expensive...

I don't have to think of being 1,000 Miles from home. I backed out of head in parking on a main drag 90 miles away with no traffic coming and the Reverse switch stuck in. Of course the Light changed and the horns started blowing as cars swerved around me. I sure don't want to have that kind of fun again...
 
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#20 ·
Had the same problem as several others with the reverse switch refusing to engage. Not looking forward to disassembling the handlebar and switch, I tried some contact cleaner and then some WD40 along the side of the switch button from the outside, but no joy. I went in the house for about an hour, and when I went to the garage again, to my delight and amazement, the switch would now engage. Just posting this for others who might have this issue; for me it was the spraying and letting it sit. Had that not worked, my next approach would have been heating up the button with a hair dryer in an attempt to warm up the grease...garage was about 40 degrees when it first stuck, and I know from experience that in cold weather, my switches tend to stick.

Ken
 
#21 ·
This is an older thread, and I already posted to it, but in reading the first post again, there is one more thing to add.

While silicone is a great lubricant, it usually is not the best thing for switches. The grease in switches is often silicone based, and silicone spray lube is a great way to wash that grease away from all the surfaces. (I do not know what is used in the Wing's switches, but if you don't know, don't do it.)

Switches that get stuck are usually because of some debris in the little cam channel in the switch. One grain of sand with jam it up. When washing it out with a liquid lube, if it all of a sudden unlatches and then won't relatch, that means that you probably just moved the debris to a different part of the channel. Another spraying might help.

It is very hard to get lubricant in there with the assembly together. You have to get lucky. There are ribs around the inside of the buttons to keep a direct spray of water out, and that makes it just as tough for lubricant to get in there.
 
#22 ·
Larry,
Just read your additional post here on my issue with the sticking reverse switch. I really appreciate you're continuing comment here. I'm not at home right now and, won't be there 'till around next Monday the 17th. After that day, I should be able to try some of the possible remedies. Our weather there in Lake Havasu City, as you more than likely know, get's a bit warm in the Summer so, it's just now getting around to comfort riding weather. And that means it's time for maybe some bike maintenance and maybe getting that reverse switch to working properly. Thanks again.
Scott
 
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