I think the alternator failed - Page 2 - GL1800Riders
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 09:00 AM
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HDL has changed their layout so much that it is a lot harder to find OEM parts than it used to be, for me anyway. However, I checked and they still offer the Honda alternator for the 1800 at $631.90. The price has more than doubled since I last purchased one.


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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 09:54 AM
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Maybe a local starter/alternator shop can rebuild it for you.

(or supply parts)

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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:13 AM
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The fact that it for some reason seems to start charging when you slow down makes me wonder if there might be something besides the alternator not working properly ??????? Do u have a voltmeter installed, if so what was it showing during all this ?
The first time my alternator went out the first thing I noticed was the radio shut itself off, I thought something was wrong with the radio but no its some sort of built in safety that shuts off the radio when the battery gets to low.
Anyway I just kept driving and messing with the radio buttons for another 10 miles until the bike completely shut off because the battery was to weak, when it shut off I coasted into a farmers yard, the battery was so dead all that happened when I pushed the start button was a click, so I asked to use a phone, called the dealer and they said they would come out to look at it and bring a trailer, by the time they got there the battery had revived itself enough to start the bike but their tester showed it was not charging so they towed it back to the shop, took alternator off another brandnew bike and everything was fine again, after that deal I bought a voltmeter so the next time the alternator went out it was very easy to see what was actually wrong. My alternator was replaced twice under warranty in the first 204,000 miles, Honda warranty covered everything including the towing and motels.
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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I have the Sears alternator on order. The output is down slightly, but 80 amps is still far more than other bikes, and is more than I need.

To me, the mystery is the part about the alternator charging at low rpm, but not at high rpm. Is that normal, or even possible? Was it just an illusion? I didn't have a way to measure output, but the signs did point to the alternator charging at idle speeds.

Glen

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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:44 AM
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Having worked for an aftermarket automotive rebuild shop for some years, I learned that there are a lot of shabby rebuilders out there. The shop I worked for does a very 'top of the line' rebuild. I worked in the alternator department rebuilding mass quantities and one-at-a-time special requests on import or domestic. The owner would do ALL the 6v stuff himself (seperate room even). If you know what to shop for, you can find a good rebuilder that will make an old worn alternator (or starter) like new, and last as long. It's about learning what wears, what deteriorate's, and how to refresh those items (or replace with better than oem items-yes there are improvements sometimes), so you can have the same reliability as one of those 'everything new' items. I would not hesitate having my alt rebuilt by the shop I worked at, and being a 2005 model, I might even have them put the new stator or rotor or both in to crank up the output to the 120 amp later ones. I probably don't need it though because I'm running a lot of LED's. Once I had a friends gl1500 compufire alt go out. I brought it down to my old shop and showed them. They compared it to a Saturn car, and ordered a new rotor, never had another problem with that alt. It even measured 94 amps after repair. I understand that everyone won't know what to look for, but you can research how to shop for a good rebuild shop. I also understand that sometimes it's just easier to buy conveniently and get it done. I've done that myself on things. My $.02$. I also run a digital volt meter to monitor my charging system at all times, and have suggested to a lot of folks to do the same (and installed a lot for folks).
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glockjock View Post
I have the Sears alternator on order. The output is down slightly, but 80 amps is still far more than other bikes, and is more than I need.

To me, the mystery is the part about the alternator charging at low rpm, but not at high rpm. Is that normal, or even possible? Was it just an illusion? I didn't have a way to measure output, but the signs did point to the alternator charging at idle speeds.

Glen
It could be a brush sticking or glazed allowing contact at slow rpm, or worn bearings causing contact with a brush at low rpm and with increased torque moving away from what is left of the short brush. SO, yes your symptoms are plausible. Everything else is solid state inside so it should be related to a moving part. A rotor winding could open at higher rpm too. Your not a red-liner are you????
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLblinded View Post
It could be a brush sticking or glazed allowing contact at slow rpm, or worn bearings causing contact with a brush at low rpm and with increased torque moving away from what is left of the short brush. SO, yes your symptoms are plausible. Everything else is solid state inside so it should be related to a moving part. A rotor winding could open at higher rpm too. Your not a red-liner are you????
Thanks for the explanation! No, I'm not a red-liner. Most of my riding buddies will testify that I'm an old blue-haired rider. The top half of my tachometer is almost brand new!

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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 12:43 PM
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I agree with GLblinded and it might be all you need is a set of brushes!
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 01:03 PM
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That list on partzilla, do you have to order the other 8 items listed also?
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 06:24 PM
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Glen, as mentioned above - sounds like a brush issue. Not uncommon for a brush to "float" at higher rpm. Lower rpm allows for longer contact on the commutator section, allowing the unit to work. I would suggest when you pull the alternator, check the brushes - length, freedom of movement, and any glazing on the commutator. You may be able to get it working again for the cost of a set of brushes.
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