Torque wrench question - Page 4 - GL1800Riders
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post #31 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Shooter F6B View Post
Seriously , by the time you guys get thru with this everyone will be so confused they will just use the "foot n tight" method. Now we are worried about temp?? In my 30 years on the job I guess I've just been lucky. Never had any kind of failure due to improper torque. I own three torque wrenches. 1/4 inch drive in NM. and inch pounds , 3/8 drive in ft lbs and 1/2 inch drive in ft lbs. All are Snap On. I have the calibration checked yearly. I think I'm gonna buy about 10 more so I'll have all the lengths. So what am I gonna do when I do cylinder heads and they call for 15 ft lbs. Then 45 ft lbs then an additional 30. Which wrench do I use then? You guys have had me thinking though. Last night I was reading in a "professional" torque manual and it made the statement that if I used an extension it wouldn't change torque value. So whoever authored that manual has never seen how much a 10 inch extension flexes on 65 ft lbs of torque. I think I'll keep doing what I've been doing all my life. At 58 yrs old it seems to work. You can over think anything. I've seen guys like that. By the time they over think it and obsess over it they usually screw it up. I set my torque wrench to the desired value and depend on it to do the job. I always use the shortest socket possible , if I use a crowfoot its at a 90 angle to the wrench and if I have to use a long extension at a heavy torque value I compensate a little within reason. So far its been working.
When the twisting is complete, and a static reading is being taken (like when setting torque) the 65 ft-lbs will exist on both ends of the extension.
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post #32 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 12:24 PM
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I don't use a beam type wrench. I use a click adjustable. With a long extension on a 1/4 or 3/8 drive and heavy torque for that setup there is a "loss". The beam type , you're right. Proper torque should be achieved.
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post #33 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Farmguy View Post
I think it's because the special tool that is used with the wrench does not place the end of the torque wrench over the centre of the nut as it would with a normal socket.
....
BINGO!
That offset alters the force amount where the torque wrench is taking its measurement. The number they give is the number to use with that exact size torque wrench to attain the real reading that is desired. If you do not have that size wrench, you can find a formula to recalculate to another length, but you have to do the calculation twice. First to get the real number at the center of pivot on the tool with the "correct" size, then recalculate that number to fit the size you have. I had to dig into that a little bit when I was re-assembling my '06 from its tranny rebuild.

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post #34 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 05:23 AM
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When the twisting is complete, and a static reading is being taken (like when setting torque) the 65 ft-lbs will exist on both ends of the extension.
I agree. From a physics standpoint, extensions have no effect on the measurement. In real life, extensions can cause errors due to mistakes in the operator's technique.

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post #35 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DDL View Post
BINGO!
That offset alters the force amount where the torque wrench is taking its measurement. The number they give is the number to use with that exact size torque wrench to attain the real reading that is desired. If you do not have that size wrench, you can find a formula to recalculate to another length, but you have to do the calculation twice. First to get the real number at the center of pivot on the tool with the "correct" size, then recalculate that number to fit the size you have. I had to dig into that a little bit when I was re-assembling my '06 from its tranny rebuild.
That was the point I was trying to make earlier. You just said it better than me. It's fine to give an example, but give me the real torque value.

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post #36 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shooter F6B View Post
Seriously , by the time you guys get thru with this everyone will be so confused they will just use the "foot n tight" method. Now we are worried about temp?? In my 30 years on the job I guess I've just been lucky. Never had any kind of failure due to improper torque. I own three torque wrenches. 1/4 inch drive in NM. and inch pounds , 3/8 drive in ft lbs and 1/2 inch drive in ft lbs. All are Snap On. I have the calibration checked yearly. I think I'm gonna buy about 10 more so I'll have all the lengths. So what am I gonna do when I do cylinder heads and they call for 15 ft lbs. Then 45 ft lbs then an additional 30. Which wrench do I use then? You guys have had me thinking though. Last night I was reading in a "professional" torque manual and it made the statement that if I used an extension it wouldn't change torque value. So whoever authored that manual has never seen how much a 10 inch extension flexes on 65 ft lbs of torque. I think I'll keep doing what I've been doing all my life. At 58 yrs old it seems to work. You can over think anything. I've seen guys like that. By the time they over think it and obsess over it they usually screw it up. I set my torque wrench to the desired value and depend on it to do the job. I always use the shortest socket possible , if I use a crowfoot its at a 90 angle to the wrench and if I have to use a long extension at a heavy torque value I compensate a little within reason. So far its been working.

Could not agree more .
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