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Topped off rear shock actuator?

3K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  tenpinarm 
#1 ·
I've been reading a lot lately about topping off the oil in the rear shock actuator if you don't get any "lift" until well after 1. With the ignition in "accessory" I would increase pressure listen for the change in sound as it built pressure. The sound changed at "7". This evening I decided to tackle the job. Ran the actuator to "0". Broke the banjo bolt loose and inserted a small screwdriver and pressed the plunger down. I could feel it "pop" a little and it went down a little. I added 10 ml of 5w fork oil to a syringe and added oil. It topped off and I had only added 5 ml !!! That isn't but 0.17 ounces!!!! Tightened the banjo bolt and tried the adjuster. Sound changed immediately at 0-1. Ran the adjuster back and forth from 0 to 25 4 or 5 times. Took the banjo bolt off again to recheck oil. It was still full. Put everything back together and went for a drive. Headlights now aim lower when shock is at 25 so I know it's raising the rear end more. I was just VERY surprised that it only took 5 ml (cc). You get more fluid then that for about every shot you get at the doc. Ran the actuator up and down again several times. Still builds pressure between 0-1. :shrug:
 
#5 ·
My actuator only had one removable connection. The other thing, at least for me and concerns me a little bit, is how LITTLE fluid it took to top it off. The document above and other post have mentioned it only takes "an ounce or so". I measured mine with a syringe. It only took 0.17 ounce!! Or 5 ml! I did expect it to take a little more than that. You can almost "sneeze" and expel that little amount.
 
#6 ·
Takes about an ounce and half (guesstimate) if the actuator is drained, cleaned and refilled. Otherwise, just a tiny bit as you found out. Does make a difference though. My first bike didn't load till 13, second at 7-8. Others that I've done vary from 3 to 17 :eek:4: Not hard to do, just time consuming.
.
 
#7 ·
Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the two sections of the actuator together and slide them apart, maybe an 1/8" or so. Press the piston down, top off fluid and put the hose back on. Then tighten the 3 bolts back up.

That extra step "pre-loads" it and she will pump from zero.
 
#8 ·
I guess i got lucky on my '12. It starts 0-1. Had enough other stuff to do in the past year on this practically new bike.
 
#10 ·
Don't know what all is different on the 2012 and newer compared to the earlier models, but I don't see how one could get the actuator out on a 2012 + without removing all bolts, screws, etc and completely loosening the saddle bag and "pulling it outward" and back a little. I didn't remove the wire to the switch that indicates if bag is open/close or remove the cable that opens the bag, but everything else. Had a little stool about right height and the bag pretty much rested on it. Still wasn't so bad except it takes getting lower sides and rear of top trunk off and rear center fender just to get to some of the screws. If the one electrical wire and cable release had been disconnected, the saddlebag would have fallen right off. Easier than an air filter change but still takes a while. :smile2:
 
#11 ·
I did mine as Ironhorse explained above and I believe Fred Harmon deserves credit for the procedure, either way as he explained this way back in 2003 or so. I also used a syringe even though I replaced all the fluid after loosening all three cap screws to gain the extra pre-load. The syringe with fluid allowed me to keep air from entering the line as the bango bolt was recoupled. Even a tiny bit of air robs you. Thanks again, Fred!


prs
 
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#13 ·
Yes prs, I thought that was Fred's neat trick but began to doubt myself when I didn't find it documented in his online photo section.

Rather than get in trouble for being wrong, I left it go unstated hoping somebody would properly identify the responsible party.

Thanks.
 
#14 ·
It has been long enough that I am not sure if he put it on the photo page or not, but I seem to recall such. Then again it might just appear on the early CDs of his video series.


prs
 
#16 ·
I also don't know 2012 and newer, but don't think the front of the bag is any farther forward. I would guess the actuator could be snuck out just like the gen 2 bikes.
 
#19 ·
One step I failed to see on this is to place a mark on the actuator of the direction the hose and banjo fitting is facing... It makes it much easier to return it to factory location and prevent harm from improper routing...
 
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