Headlight aiming? - GL1800Riders
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Headlight aiming?

OK guys...it appears that my left low beam headlight is aimed lower than the right. So, how do I fix it?
Thanks,
Jerry

oops...pertinent info
2008 gl1800 level 4

Last edited by chiefgrub; 03-19-2017 at 02:27 PM. Reason: more info
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 02:24 PM
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By turning the manual adjustment nut underneath it

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefgrub View Post
OK guys...it appears that my left low beam headlight is aimed lower than the right. So, how do I fix it?
Thanks,
Jerry
Start the bike and check to see that the electric level adjuster for it operates correctly, then manually adjust it until it matches the other side shining on a wall at 20 feet.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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The electric adjuster operates...how do you adjust manually?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 02:54 PM
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Read the post above !!! Shows diagram

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 02:59 PM
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You might also check that the bulb is seated all the way in the socket.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 05:18 PM
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12mm





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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 05:44 PM
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However, here is an old post concerning headlight alignment. http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...ght-Adjustment

05-11-2013#6ssncob

Be careful raising the light level, easy to get too high and blind other drivers with the glare. (been there, done that). Put your bike on the center stand some distance away from a flat wall - whether it be at the end of your driveway or the local store's back wall. Use a towel to cover one of the lights.

Put the lights at 10, go to the wall with some tape and mark the current cutoff point of the light. Now switch the towel, and mark where the other light hits. Odds are they aren't the same height (haven't seen one yet be equal, Honda seems to always have one lower than the other).

Since you currently think the lights are too low, then go adjust your lights to 3 and see where the cutoff is. Now raise the lights using the light adjustment screw shown in srobak's post. I use a 12 mm socket on a long extension. Turns easy enough you don't need a ratchet on the end of the extension. Just shine a light up from underneath the tunnel, easy to spot (silver nut against a black everything else). Bring each light up to an equal level - to whichever tape mark height you want to use.

Now, when you ride with your lights at a 7 level or so, they should be high enough for you without glaring other people. That also leaves you with the ability to raise them higher out on the back roads with no traffic. Easiest check is to ride behind some other riders and ask them if they're glaring or just right. Adjust as necessary.



05-11-2013#7
tfdeputydawg

HEADLAMP AIM PROCEDURE
Proper headlamp aim is achieved by adjusting the upper(high) beams.
Bike needs to be on a level floor, standing upright, loaded as you normally ride. (re, 1up-you for most), with pre load set as you ride 1up, placed 25' from a wall to the headlamp lens in front of the upper beam. I would suggest the auto adjust dial be set in the middle position for this aiming.
Measure the distance from the floor up to the center of the upper beam bulbs. Mark this height on the wall and draw a horizontal line at this height.
Sight a point on the wall that is on the centerline of the bike. Draw a vertical line on the wall placed on this center line.
turn on the upper beams.
Cover one of the headlamps.
Use the manual adjusters accessed from under the fairing.
Adjust the vertical until the hot spot of the upper beam bulb is just under the horizontal line on the wall.
Adjust the horizontal until the upper beam hot spot is just to the right of the vertical line on the wall.
Cover the headlamp just completed, and repeat procedure on the other headlamp.
Make a small mark on the auto adjust panel so you can return to the 1up setting.
Now have both headlamps uncovered and have the usual passenger you carry sit on the bike w/you, set the preload for 2up, and dial in the auto adjust dial for proper aim and mark that position on the panel by the dial. You can repeat this for loaded 1up, loaded 2up, trailer, etc.
You get what you get for low beam aim depending on how good the headlamp design was to start with!


05-11-2013#8
ssncob

dawg - I don't disagree with your procedure - it's a good one. I do disagree with using the high beams to set the lights though. You're not using high beams around others, you are using low beams, and that's what most use in a daily riding environment and what we'll notice if not pointing to where we need them.

When I used to do vehicle inspections for Texas DPS, single beam headlights were checked and adjusted on the low beam setting. Low beams is what matters - if the high beams are off you may highlight aircraft , but you won't bother other drivers.

.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I missed it the first time.
Found it and that did the trick.
Thanks everyone for your replies.
Jerry
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssncob View Post
However, here is an old post concerning headlight alignment. http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...ght-Adjustment

05-11-2013#6ssncob

Be careful raising the light level, easy to get too high and blind other drivers with the glare. (been there, done that). Put your bike on the center stand some distance away from a flat wall - whether it be at the end of your driveway or the local store's back wall. Use a towel to cover one of the lights.

Put the lights at 10, go to the wall with some tape and mark the current cutoff point of the light. Now switch the towel, and mark where the other light hits. Odds are they aren't the same height (haven't seen one yet be equal, Honda seems to always have one lower than the other).

Since you currently think the lights are too low, then go adjust your lights to 3 and see where the cutoff is. Now raise the lights using the light adjustment screw shown in srobak's post. I use a 12 mm socket on a long extension. Turns easy enough you don't need a ratchet on the end of the extension. Just shine a light up from underneath the tunnel, easy to spot (silver nut against a black everything else). Bring each light up to an equal level - to whichever tape mark height you want to use.

Now, when you ride with your lights at a 7 level or so, they should be high enough for you without glaring other people. That also leaves you with the ability to raise them higher out on the back roads with no traffic. Easiest check is to ride behind some other riders and ask them if they're glaring or just right. Adjust as necessary.



05-11-2013#7
tfdeputydawg

HEADLAMP AIM PROCEDURE
Proper headlamp aim is achieved by adjusting the upper(high) beams.
Bike needs to be on a level floor, standing upright, loaded as you normally ride. (re, 1up-you for most), with pre load set as you ride 1up, placed 25' from a wall to the headlamp lens in front of the upper beam. I would suggest the auto adjust dial be set in the middle position for this aiming.
Measure the distance from the floor up to the center of the upper beam bulbs. Mark this height on the wall and draw a horizontal line at this height.
Sight a point on the wall that is on the centerline of the bike. Draw a vertical line on the wall placed on this center line.
turn on the upper beams.
Cover one of the headlamps.
Use the manual adjusters accessed from under the fairing.
Adjust the vertical until the hot spot of the upper beam bulb is just under the horizontal line on the wall.
Adjust the horizontal until the upper beam hot spot is just to the right of the vertical line on the wall.
Cover the headlamp just completed, and repeat procedure on the other headlamp.
Make a small mark on the auto adjust panel so you can return to the 1up setting.
Now have both headlamps uncovered and have the usual passenger you carry sit on the bike w/you, set the preload for 2up, and dial in the auto adjust dial for proper aim and mark that position on the panel by the dial. You can repeat this for loaded 1up, loaded 2up, trailer, etc.
You get what you get for low beam aim depending on how good the headlamp design was to start with!


05-11-2013#8
ssncob

dawg - I don't disagree with your procedure - it's a good one. I do disagree with using the high beams to set the lights though. You're not using high beams around others, you are using low beams, and that's what most use in a daily riding environment and what we'll notice if not pointing to where we need them.

When I used to do vehicle inspections for Texas DPS, single beam headlights were checked and adjusted on the low beam setting. Low beams is what matters - if the high beams are off you may highlight aircraft , but you won't bother other drivers.

.
From one submariner to another, thanks shipmate! I had 5 boats...Nathanael Greene, Pennsylvania, Wyoming, Providence and Maryland.
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