Front Forks Project - Page 2 - GL1800Riders
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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:40 PM
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I put a set of rubber jaws on my bench vice and secure the fork there. I have never had to use air tools to remove the 6mm allen head bolt at the bottom of the fork. Secure the shock in the vice and gently break it lose. As far as setting the seal, don't use a hammer. The traction tool is heavy enough that gravity will force the seal into place.

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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 04:56 AM
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I did my forks a couple weeks ago. I loosened the 6mm bolts while the forks where still attached to the bike. Was no problem. It was the first time for removal since the bike was new back in 08. Still had to use my wood vice on the shiny upper part of the forks to be able to remove the upper caps. The caps are not under a lot of pressure but no way to stop the tubes from spinning. I used an appropriate sized ABS pipe coupler to get the upper bushing started. Tried the Fred Harmon piece of wood thing to try and start the bushing but that was a world of frustration for me. The ABS coupler made the task so easy. The only issue I had was the tapered inside of the coupler would compress the bushing perfectly and allow it to start the bushing BUT would bite onto the bushing enough that when I went to remove the coupler the bushing would come back up from its groove. I fixed this problem by very gently starting the bushing in its groove then remove the coupler off the bushing, then I would slide one of the forks metal washers onto the bushing then drive it home with the ABS coupler. Fork oil to lube the new bushings and seals is recommended. As for air tools......personally I wouldn't use air tools on any nut or bolt on any motorcycle!!

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Last edited by Bluecyclone; 04-20-2017 at 04:58 AM.
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:30 AM
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For the cap on top of the slider, after loosening the bolt clamping the top of the tree to the slider tube, break the cap loose then and there.

I remove the bottom bolts while the forks are still mounted so the bike can hold the forks for me while they drain.


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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhorse1800 View Post
For the cap on top of the slider, after loosening the bolt clamping the top of the tree to the slider tube, break the cap loose then and there.

I remove the bottom bolts while the forks are still mounted so the bike can hold the forks for me while they drain.


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Thought about loosening those upper caps while it was still mounted in the bike but was afraid that bending the plastic cover enough to get a socket on it would make it bend permanently. Yes i did the same with the bottom 6mm bolts- remove and pump the fork up and down to drain.....my concrete sidewalk is evidence that they dont drain completely at this point .
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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:30 AM
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Thought about loosening those upper caps while it was still mounted in the bike but was afraid that bending the plastic cover enough to get a socket on it would make it bend permanently. Yes i did the same with the bottom 6mm bolts- remove and pump the fork up and down to drain.....my concrete sidewalk is evidence that they dont drain completely at this point .
Oh yea, I forgot about that fanged plastic cover. Years ago, when handlebar risers were installed, that plastic piece went by-by, parked in the spare parts bin.

Maybe needed to drink another cold one while the forks finished draining? Or, just before pulling the forks off the bike, slip the drain bolts back in to prevent drips while moving around the shop.

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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:27 AM
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As you say this is a weekend project, I would pull the wheel and get every thing out of the way on Friday night, remove the 6mm bolts and then the fork caps. Let the forks drain overnight into a pan. You will never get all the old oil out until the forks are disassembled but most will drain overnight. I disassemble mine over a throw away carpet square. That old oil smells terrible.
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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:35 PM
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Did mine last year due to a leaking seal. There are a number of homemade suggestions to create a seal driver out of PVC pipe. Be careful with the new top bushings. I managed to screw one up when I put it in and had to reorder a new one(lost a week ). They slide into the fork. Just takes a bit of time. I didn't go as far as you. Just put in new SW springs.

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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:57 PM
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This is what I use - works great...

How to Make Fork Bushing and Fork Seal Drivers, and a Nifty Fork Stand

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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:52 PM
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Did mine not long ago and you will hate the race tech directions for the gold valves, not sure they were even for the goldwing. The anti dive will be disabled when you drill the 4 holes in the tube that the 6mm screws into from the bottom of the fork on that side. I only had to cut a new tube that goes on top of the spring for one side because dropping the gold valve in on the other makes up the difference you need for the spring preload. I bought everything from wingstuff and also purchased the fork service kit but only used the seal driver and the syringe to set the oil level. The races were easy to drive out of the neck but I may have been lucky. I bought 2 bottles of fork oil but only used 1 and had just a tiny amount left. Lot of help by searching on here and people answering questions. One of my 6mm was put in with red loctite and I had to torch it to get it out after I twisted the allen head and had to use an easy out to get it out but that was the only problem I had. Also if you have a harbor freight socket and grind it out to fit the fork nut...........don't drop it on the concrete as it will shatter. I did not take any helpful photos but wish I had now so I could be of more help. If you have a goldwing manual the part you drill 4 holes in is #7 on page 460 and that is the side with the drop in valve. The right fork is more complicated trying to put the shims in right and the valves facing the right direction.
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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Original Question #1 - Just go for it.

Original Question #2 - I got the use of the tool. Use it and be happy.

As for loosening the bolts and caps, yeah I think the best plan is to loosen them with the forks mounted on the bike as Fred did in the videos. I think I will even separate them in the bike as he did. Then remove the the sliders and continue on with the tree removal from there.

In the videos Fred seemed to be able to torque the 2 lower bolts without any issues and the top caps still removed if I recall correctly. So thinking that can be done off bike. I will probably measure the oil and set the height while off the bike and install the caps all off bike. Maybe torque caps after installed.
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