Front Forks Project - Page 3 - GL1800Riders
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Did mine not long ago and you will hate the race tech directions for the gold valves, not sure they were even for the goldwing. The anti dive will be disabled when you drill the 4 holes in the tube that the 6mm screws into from the bottom of the fork on that side. I only had to cut a new tube that goes on top of the spring for one side because dropping the gold valve in on the other makes up the difference you need for the spring preload. I bought everything from wingstuff and also purchased the fork service kit but only used the seal driver and the syringe to set the oil level. The races were easy to drive out of the neck but I may have been lucky. I bought 2 bottles of fork oil but only used 1 and had just a tiny amount left. Lot of help by searching on here and people answering questions. One of my 6mm was put in with red loctite and I had to torch it to get it out after I twisted the allen head and had to use an easy out to get it out but that was the only problem I had. Also if you have a harbor freight socket and grind it out to fit the fork nut...........don't drop it on the concrete as it will shatter. I did not take any helpful photos but wish I had now so I could be of more help. If you have a goldwing manual the part you drill 4 holes in is #7 on page 460 and that is the side with the drop in valve. The right fork is more complicated trying to put the shims in right and the valves facing the right direction.
This did get me looking a the RaceTech instructions. Holy crap. I think I have a whole new set of questions to get straight in my brain before starting. Even if I push off a weekend. I am the engineer type who needs to have a decent picture of the plan before starting off.

On the Damping Rod side.
I have aftermarket springs and cartridge emulators in my Connie. I drilled the holes on them, cut spacers and all that. And have done the fork oil many times. This side seems familiar other than the instructions for cutting the spacer length seem a little interesting. -- Drop in the emulator and fully expand the fork. Measure from the top the emulator to the top the tube. Measure the cap height. Subtract. This is your "Set Length". The cut the spacer so the combined length of the spring, 2 washers and the spacer is 1 inch longer than the set length.

If I am getting this, it seems I want 1" of preload on the spring when everything is installed and the cap is screwed down all the way.

Thinking I will measure the set length, add 1". Subtract length of spring and 2 washers and that is the length to cut the spacer
Set Length + 1" == Spring + 2 washers + spacer

On the Cartridge Side.
Uh......
Do we have internal or external top out springs?
Thats about as far as I made it to night. Time to go to bed.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:31 PM
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I have the 1.1 springs just because several had commented on how harsh the 1.2s were in old posts here. I really like the new front end, hope you will like yours. I am a pretty good at mechanical and electrical but those directions had me scratching my head several times. Only forks I had ever rebuilt before these was on the 2005 honda shadow that my wife had so maybe if I had more expirience prior on not so simple forks it would have been easier but I learned a lot and glad I did it myself. Good luck and no worries to much knowledge and help on this forum to help you along.

The internal or external question? I don't know, went and looked at the directions and I don't see what your referencing.

Last edited by bzgenius; 04-21-2017 at 05:51 PM.
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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After looking around I believe internal top out spring on the cartridge side.

I have basically 2 sets of instructions. Those that come with the springs and those that come with the Gold Valve / Emulator kit. Referencing the GV/E instruction and looking at the damping rod side it has specific instruction on how to determine the spacer length, which will determine the amount of preload on the front spring when all together. If I am interpreting the instruction right it will be 1" or 25mm. On the Cartridge side the instruction say to use your spring instructions to determine the spacer length. The instructions are for a whole bunch of bikes so you have to determine what kind of forks you have, in conventional cartridge forks what kind of top out springs you have, fork caps, etc. And at 11PM last night I was like top out springs? what? I going to bed.

One interesting thing on the spring instructions they mention 20mm preload on the spring w/o adjustable preload and 10mm for adj preload, then use adj from there. -- To me following the 2 instructions to the letter as I interpret them I would have 20mm preload on one fork and 25mm preload on the other. This seems strange to me.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Just talked with the RaceTech tech guy and we want 25mm preload on both sides. So that's how I'll measure it out.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well phase 1 complete. Garage cleaned and got room to work, dash and top shelter off and found the reason for the lack of radio functionality was one of my connectors was loose, belly pan removed and up on the floor jack. As Fred would say, its time for a cold one. Ice tea that is.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Phase 2 complete. Cold one is finished. The front tire is off, bla bla bla, all the way down to fork lowers are free and ready for draining. Brakes are bungee'd up. Pizza is here. So far so good.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:26 PM
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Glad they told you 25mm on both sides cause thats what I did and was starting to worry but it rides great so I probably wouldn't have changed it even though it could be done without taking everything back off. I didn't have Fred's videos so your way ahead of where I was, nobody told me to drink at that point of the project so I waited to the end and probably drank a whole gallon of lipton at that point.
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Had I not talked with RaceTech that is what I was going to do. Just doesn't make sense to set them different.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 07:43 AM
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Phase 2 complete. Cold one is finished. The front tire is off, bla bla bla, all the way down to fork lowers are free and ready for draining. Brakes are bungee'd up. Pizza is here. So far so good.
Friendly reminder, now is a great time to change the clutch fluid. The nipple is up near the top of the tree.

gramps

.

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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Phase 3 complete. Forks out, drained and all apart. Time for a hot one. Coffee and a slice of last nights pizza.

Observations are: Now that I them all apart it looks like external top out spring. Now that I see it apart and look at the diagram again, its clear what is shown and I was reading it wrong. Bushings look real good. I am betting the previous owner had these serviced not too long ago and/or at least some point in the past. The oil in the cartridge side looked really good. Hard to believe this is 12 years old and 60K. The damping rod side not so much, but the it always looks like crap even after a few months. Its all going back together with the new stuff.

I could not get the 6mm bolts loose when in the bike. When trying to break loose not only does the steering stem want to turn, but so does the lower fork tube. The whole thing always wants to rotate and I was not able to hold with one hand and work the wrench with the other. Not very good at using my feet. -- So loosened the upper clamps, loosen the caps, and remove the forks. -- I put them in my bench and let that hold and support the lower tube while I broke loose the 6mm bolts. At that point I should have left the just barely broke loose, removed the caps and pour out the fluid from the top as it says in the Honda manual. Pump them to get out as much as possible, bla bla bla. Now finish disassembly. -- What I did was try to remove the 6mm bolts and let it drain out the bottom and pump them to get most out, etc. Then remove cap and disassemble. On the damping rod side it work ok except for a little splash as the fluid came gushing out. Like it really wanted out of there. However on the cartridge side I remove the 6mm bolt but you also need to loosen the cap to raise the cartridge enough to allow the fluid to drain. Not thinking I held the fork horizontal and removed the cap. Fluid can pouring out. My drain pan was covering the other end. Ooops. Fortunately I was outside in the drive way and not in the garage. The rain will wash it to night. SO DONT DO IT LIKE THAT.

Off to Home Depot for some cleaning supplies.

So far so good. It probably took longer to sit here and sip coffee and type this than it did to get it all apart, take pictures and all that.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
Darkside #1707
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