Front Forks Project - Page 5 - GL1800Riders
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post #41 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Out of curiosity, when measuring the pull on the lower clamp anyone ever do it when first installed with no forks, etc and do it when just adjusting the bearings and the tires and everything are all installed? I am wondering if the weight of the forks and tire, all the hoses clamped down has large, small, no effect on the pull readings. Anyone compare these before?

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #42 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Slybones View Post
Out of curiosity, when measuring the pull on the lower clamp anyone ever do it when first installed with no forks, etc and do it when just adjusting the bearings and the tires and everything are all installed? I am wondering if the weight of the forks and tire, all the hoses clamped down has large, small, no effect on the pull readings. Anyone compare these before?
Yes it does, I measured 3 additional pounds of pull from bare to complete. Then took it all apart again to adjust it for a final fully completely assembled pull of 11 pounds. That is when the forks STARTED to move. If you do an assembled test, then you have a baseline for impromptu tests to detect wear/seating/etc. Which reminds me, I should test mine again.
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post #43 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:37 PM
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Now that I have carefully read, and attempted to absorb all the insightful information on this thread,

I am taking my bike to Fred's and having him install Traxxion springs.

is either that or ride forkless...cause I bet I can get as far as taking them out of the bike, assuming I get past taking the front tire out first.

"hum, fear not evil I shall"
"All things with Christ's strength I do"

Yoda quoting the Bible.
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post #44 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:44 PM
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Now that I have carefully read, and attempted to absorb all the insightful information on this thread,

I am taking my bike to Fred's and having him install Traxxion springs.

is either that or ride forkless...cause I bet I can get as far as taking them out of the bike, assuming I get past taking the front tire out first.

Your gunna love it, when you get it back. Just put tires on a friends bike and had him ride mine, he joked about going home and hopping on my bike to go. He knows what he has to save up for now.
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post #45 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Overall this project too a lot longer than I expected. Nothing bad happened and all went to together in the end, the way that it should have. Weather is crap have no idea how it rides.


-- Problem #1 is my nature to over think the heck out of things. I had to ask a pile of questions before I even got started.


-- Getting things apart. Fred's videos are a great help and everything came apart nicely. No surprises here and no real delay in time.


-- Doing the forks. The seals and bushing went as expected. Again Freds videos a big help. I have the $40 tool for installing bearings and seals. This is way better than watching Fred. Get the tool. The real problem here is the RaceTech instructions are not the best all the way around. On the cartridge side how to assemble the rebound piston and clear details on all the bits are lacking. On the Damper rod side the pictures and instructions for drilling the holes are not even for a Goldwing, and the instructions for cutting the spacers and getting the spring preload set right is funky. Staring at this, posting here and calling RaceTech adds lots of time. Finally get this figured all out and forks are together. Time to add oil, the cartridge side goes well. On the damping rod side the Emulator will not stay in straight and it takes 5 tries to get the fork oil set right and install the springs, washers and spacers and have the right stack height.


-- On the All Balls tapered roller bearings with the '12up lower tree project, this went well to get the old races out and new races/bearings installed. Took a bit longer than I expected and had to watch Freds videos again. But all in all this was ok.


-- One observation on the lower tree bearings and press fitting them on the tree is : When the bearing are loose and in your hand they tend to spin easily and smoothly. After pressing them onto the tree using the old race, PVC pipe like in the video, the bearings don't spin as freely. There is a little more tension on them. Not hard to turn, and still spin smoothly with no glitches or rough feeling, but does take more effort to turn them. I am wondering if this is why there is a variation in the amount of torque needed on the adjuster nut to get 3 lbs pull. I have mine at 10 ft/lbs torque and get 3.2 lbs on the digital scale. -- I can see if the bearings spun easier after install they would probably require more torque on the nut to get the 3lbs, than a set of bearings that have more tension on them after install. -- Maybe MFG tolerances in the neck size. A few thou one way or another makes tension difference, which translates into different torque settings to get 3 lbs.


-- Speaking of which, this area cost me some time. I didn't have a scale and went by what feels right, kinda like what Fred did in the videos. Had the forks in, started to assemble the bars and install the TS cancel unit and all that when I decided I really didn't have enough experience at this to judge exactly what is good enough. So I went and bought a digital fish scale and removed all the parts and did it all over again.. Glad I did. My good enough was really about 1.6 lbs. and now I am at 3.2 lbs on the scale. And this took very little movement on the adjuster nut.


-- This was also kind of tricky to do. When you pull on the lower clamp to get the reading its hard to keep a constant pressure on the clamp when the clamp starts to move. Wife and I would find the scale would slowly increase as I slowly applies pressure, but as soon as the clamp moves the pressure is relieved somewhat and you then try to compensate, and it jerks up higher, etc. Wife would tell me that the reading would slowly build up nice like and then jump all over the place. Our trick became to slowly pull on the scale and note the reading when at the moment it jumps all over. This is when the tree started to move. Took 3 readings and averaged them together for our setting.


-- With that out of the way installing the handlebars, clamps and fork stuff with tire, brakes, etc goes by smoothly and easily enough.


Now lets get some decent weather.
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2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
Darkside #1707

Last edited by Slybones; 04-27-2017 at 12:02 AM.
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post #46 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Got around taking some post sag measurements.

Before, me along in street clothes. I have 3.25 inches of sag. With 4.8 inches of total travel that leaves 1.55 suspension travel when riding down the road, not factoring riding gear, etc. Now I have 1.75 inches of sag. Which leaves 3.05 suspension travel when riding down the road. Almost double the suspension travel available.

Still don't have a clue what it rides like.
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2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #47 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well I know its about time. I have been out on some suspension and check rides to make sure nothing was wrong. 100mi or so. And I have done a few local Goldwing Club rides of 100mi or so. Tuesday the North Cascades Hwy was opened for the season and yesterday the wife and I did the Cascade loop which is 410mi door to door for us. Sun was out, traffic not too bad and a lot of Motorcycles on the road. -- We did a east to west direction going over Stevens Pass, up 97 through Chelan, 153 to Twisp/Wintrop and the North Cascades back.

My thoughts are:

1. Me at 260 and the wife a buck less than that, then add riding gear we are over the max load capacity of the GL1800 as it is much less loaded up for a long multiday ride. So we can use the extra spring rates.

2. Note I did the rear suspension a few weeks before doing the front. So both are changed.

3. This is firmer suspension and you get a firmer ride, plain and simple. This has its pro's and con's.

- Just slabbing it and on the small stuff, expansion joints and tar snakes etc. You feel this stuff a bit more. Its not bad, but you notice this more. If this is where you ride 90% of the time, stock might feel good to you. Or something in the middle between stock and 1.1 springs.

- On the flip side it soaks up the bumps a lot better. Things like dip in the road where the rear used to really compress as the weight dropped down into the dip, is now just a little blip and your thinking how nice that was.

- The front has a lot less brake dive and soaks up bumps nicely.

- On Hwy 20 over the North Cascades we had our share of road surface changes and pot holes with some sharp hits to the suspension. This too was not bad on the front and holding the bars. Seems like a bit less rattle of the shield albeit a firmer ride, still seems pretty compliant on the fast fork movements.

- On the rear the wife liked it. Our first few local 100mi rides were not a big test. Wife commented on the firmer ride and when I pressed for details she just said it was firmer. yesterday after doing the North Cascades she commented on how much better the ride was. I asked it I should put it back to stock and she said something to the extent of , not if I wanted her to keep riding back there. I take that as a NO.

- Handling seems better in that we pushed a few 30mph and 40mph curves a little faster than the sign advises. Not too bad as I try not to get too crazy with the wife back there. Any case very little suspension movement as the cornering forces push on the suspension. Here bike has less movement, and gives a stable and more sure footed feeling, controlled feeling. I passed one slow car at a little over the speed limit ( not too much of course, he says with a straight face ) and applied the brakes to scrape off speed before letting off and pushing into a slow curve. We pushed this one more than I would have liked and I was fully expecting to hear the sounds of scraping metal as the suspension compressed from cornering forces and little travel we used to have. Now we have more suspension travel and have less drama. To my surprise I cranked it over, brought in the throttle and exited without any unwanted sound effects, movements, or whatever. As we go down the small straight for the next curve, the 2 guys on sport bikes went passed. The first guy gave a thumbs up, and the other guy just stared back as he went by, while I was busy checking to see if I pee'd myself.

- Overall it was a great day, and I am quite pleased with the results. But yeah there are some pros and cons. If you weigh a 100+ lbs less than wife and I, ride the slab 90% of the time or ride the speed limit right on the nose, you probably get by with stock. I can see some thinking this is too firm. For the wife and I who ride a little spirited albeit not near the top guys reported here, its a nice overall improvement with cons that I can accept ( being feeling the light stuff more ). And its there for you when you get caught with your pants down.
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2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #48 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Now for the bad news. Well not that bad. All them sharp edges, and crappy road surfaces going over the North Cascades my front steering stem bearings are loose. I had been checking them after my check rides and my few local rides. Things felt tight and nothing strange in the bars. -- By the time we completed the North Cascades I could feel it in the bars on the bumps. From about Newhalem back we did a nice easy ride.

Off to go get some tools as the allen head for the socket that fits the handle bars is still down in the abyss.

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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post #49 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 06:26 PM
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Now for the bad news. Well not that bad. All them sharp edges, and crappy road surfaces going over the North Cascades my front steering stem bearings are loose. I had been checking them after my check rides and my few local rides. Things felt tight and nothing strange in the bars. -- By the time we completed the North Cascades I could feel it in the bars on the bumps. From about Newhalem back we did a nice easy ride.

Off to go get some tools as the allen head for the socket that fits the handle bars is still down in the abyss.
Good write ups. Others will find it invaluable information when they decide to ...do-it-themselves... The lessened or loss of preload you describe makes me think that the seats 'seated' more. Once you reset your preload, you should be ok. You obviously know how to check it, so your subsequent tests will confirm that it has finally all 'seated'. Again, good job and good sharing.
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post #50 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Yes it does, I measured 3 additional pounds of pull from bare to complete. Then took it all apart again to adjust it for a final fully completely assembled pull of 11 pounds. That is when the forks STARTED to move. If you do an assembled test, then you have a baseline for impromptu tests to detect wear/seating/etc. Which reminds me, I should test mine again.
Was going to come home early tomorrow and get the bearings tightened back up again. Re-reading this I think I am slightly confused.

Its 3lbs pull bare lower tree with no forks, etc. Then assembled it was an additional 3 lbs for 6lbs total with forks, tires, bars, etc. And is your personal preference for 11lbs total assembled with bars, etc all installed.

The question is because: -- I get bare 3lbs pull with nothing as that is how you have the bearings apart when changing them. When just doing the adjustment the forks and tire will be installed, but the upper tree and bars all removed. It could be measured at this point as well as 100% final assembly with upper tree, bars, etc.

Thanks

2005 GL1800ABS 61,000mi
2003 ZG1000 132,000mi
IBA 28004
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