Fair price for R&R of rear spring? - GL1800Riders
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Fair price for R&R of rear spring?

What would be a fair price to replace the rear coil spring on a 2002 GL1800?
Also, what all is entailed in that job (what all has to come off to get to the spring)? Thanks in advance.



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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:51 PM
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Helped my buddy with his - the gas tank has to come out as well as the top shelter and side panels and seat - fairly labor intensive - I would guess a shop would charge 3-5 hours labor...

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Last edited by dadztoy; 04-20-2017 at 07:55 PM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:50 PM
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I had a friend that had done this before to come and help me. I took all of the stuff off. Not down to the air filter, but I did have to loosen some of the bolts that hold that second level of stuff so that the gas tank had room to come out. Removed the dash and the top panel, seat, and loosened the rt. rear trunk. It took us about 3 hours to remove the tank and replace the spring shock and pump. We also refilled the H. Pump while we were at it. Hard part was getting the gas tank out but a lot of silicone spray lubricate helped a lot.
I then reinstalled the stuff I had remove. One day of my time and job was done.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsrinhsv View Post
We also refilled the H. Pump while we were at it.
H. Pump? Hydraulic Pump?



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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 02:28 PM
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Yes. The preload actuator for the rear spring is hydraulically activated via an electric motor, which is what you hear running when you are pressing the up/down buttons. The problem is they are generally not full of fluid and have lots of air in them. Just like brake lines that have air in them and feel real mushy and lots of lever travel, the electric motor first has to compress all the air and get the line firmed up before any preload starts to happen. This is a strong spring. Any amount of air takes a lot of compression before the whole system is firm enough to start moving the spring. Place your bike on the center stand. Run the preload down to 0 on the meter panel, with the engine off so you can hear start running up the preload. For most people your hear the electric motor turn easily from 0 to 5 range. Then suddenly at 6 you hear the electric motor load down and start to move the spring. This means you really didn't have preload range from 0 -25. You really had 0-20, as the first 5 preload motor steps was just compressing air. So by filling the system with 5 wt suspension fluid and getting it topped off real nice, most find the preload engages almost immediately and you have a true 0-25 preload adjustment range.

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