Check for transmitter lock/unlock feature???? - Page 2 - GL1800Riders
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 10:17 AM
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Got the transmitter but can't get it to work. Now I have to start looking for broken wires in the trunk.

'05 Goldwing; '03 VTX 1300; '11 Harley Ultra Classic - Sold

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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prockey View Post
Got the transmitter but can't get it to work. Now I have to start looking for broken wires in the trunk.
Did you go through the programming steps? The bike has to be taught to respond to the fob. Any of the buttons work any functions?

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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 02:22 PM
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by techdude2000 View Post
Did you go through the programming steps? The bike has to be taught to respond to the fob. Any of the buttons work any functions?
The light comes on when I press any of the FOB buttons but I can't get it to link to the trunk release. I'm going to have to check for broken wires next.

'05 Goldwing; '03 VTX 1300; '11 Harley Ultra Classic - Sold

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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 03:28 PM
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If you go through this a couple of times and it still doesn't work, then look at the wiring.

TRANSMITTER REGISTRATION
• The codes of up to three transmitters can be reg-
istered into the trunk lock control unit memory.
(If a fourth code is stored, the code which was
registered first will be erased.)
• Make sure to keep the timing between 1 and
4 seconds for each action. Too fast or too slow
will cause the control unit to lose the stored
codes.
1. Turn the ignition switch to “ON.” Between 1 and
4 seconds, press the trunk opener button on the
transmitter while aiming transmitter at the trunk.
Between 1 and 4 seconds, turn the ignition
switch to “OFF.”
2. Between 1 and 4 seconds, turn the ignition
switch back to “ON.” Between 1 and 4 seconds,
press the trunk opener button on the transmitter
while aiming transmitter at the trunk. Between 1
and 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to “OFF.”
3. Between 1 and 4 seconds, turn the ignition
switch back to “ON.” Between 1 and 4 seconds,
press the trunk opener button on the transmitter
while aiming transmitter at the trunk. Between 1
and 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to “OFF.”
4. Between 1 and 4 seconds, turn the ignition
switch back to “ON.” Between 1 and 4 seconds,
press the trunk opener button on the transmitter
while aiming transmitter at the trunk. Confirm
that the turn signal lights blink twice. Leave the
ignition switch “ON.”
5. Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to
three) that you want to store codes in at the trunk
and press the trunk opener button once on each
transmitter. Confirm that the turn signal lights
blink twice. Turn the ignition switch to “OFF.”
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Found the problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by techdude2000 View Post
Did you go through the programming steps? The bike has to be taught to respond to the fob. Any of the buttons work any functions?
So just checked the trunk wires on the right and this is what I found,

I guess I have a job to do now. They are all broken.
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'05 Goldwing; '03 VTX 1300; '11 Harley Ultra Classic - Sold

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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone know what gauge wire it is in here.

'05 Goldwing; '03 VTX 1300; '11 Harley Ultra Classic - Sold

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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prockey View Post
Anyone know what gauge wire it is in here.
I believe it's 16 gauge, but you should be able to splice them back together without adding any new wire. I recommend soldering them and heat shrink tubing. A lot of folks just replace the harness, its more work, but does last longer.

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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techdude2000 View Post
I believe it's 16 gauge, but you should be able to splice them back together without adding any new wire. I recommend soldering them and heat shrink tubing. A lot of folks just replace the harness, its more work, but does last longer.
It looks like the cable is tight and has no slack to move it away and avoid another bend/break so I might splice in some more to add some length to it. I'll have to remove all the tape and see what it looks like inside and then decide what to do.

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