Neutral light & Reverse Nonfunctional +Engine Light - GL1800Riders
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Neutral light & Reverse Nonfunctional +Engine Light

My 2012 Comfort model has had the brake recall done. I had to take the bike back because cruise control didn't work afterward. The other day the neutral light ceased to work. Then I noticed that reverse didn't work. The bike seems to run fine, but today on a 100 mile ride in 90 degree heat, the 'fuel injection' light came on. I've checked all the fuses in the fuse block (except the big square ones), and they were fine. I disconnected the battery for ten minutes (negative ground). The bike only has 16,000 miles on it (one of the last 2012's I found when the 2014s were hitting the street). I do run alcohol free gas fairly often because it is found at a local service station near a large lake. I haven't added a lot of accessories. Just LED driving lights, a USB charge port and a power point for the RAM mounted GPS. So I haven't been messing with major wiring. The battery is OEM, and is always connected to a battery tender when not being ridden.

I did look at some of the diagnostic testing of the neutral sender....I don't think I have the ability to tear that deep into the bike. I'm getting old and have a bad back, so my work has to be carefully paced, and I don't want the bike down for weeks. So, unless I can figure out a quick fix, I may need advice on dealing with the dealer. Thanks in advance for any one's shared experience or knowledge.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 10:55 AM
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There is a large dealer in Marshall, TX. Your bike may still be under warranty depending on when in 2014 you bought it. The cruise failure was undoubtedly caused by the technician that performed the brake recall however I doubt that your current problems were caused by him. As you aren't up for some deep digging, this is a job for the dealer techs. Especially if you are still under warranty.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response. I've got a fairly good dealer just a couple of miles from me (near Lake Ray Hubbard). I did receive one bit of bad advice. I was told that disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes might rest the ECM, but that also erases previous error codes. So I have to ride until the error code pops back up. Of course on Tuesday's hot ride, it came on over and over. Today...zilch. I wonder if it is healing?

My wife reminded me that we hit a heck of a bump (really high ridge of asphalt on a highway where some dweeb didn't compact the asphalt repair properly. It drew a yelp from her and bounced the rear off the ground at 60mph. I'm starting to think that might have jarred a connection loose. But I won't know until I've got an error code. The cruise control IS working right now, but I couldn't get it to work early this AM.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 11:29 AM
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Thanks for the response. I've got a fairly good dealer just a couple of miles from me (near Lake Ray Hubbard). I did receive one bit of bad advice. I was told that disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes might rest the ECM, but that also erases previous error codes. So I have to ride until the error code pops back up. Of course on Tuesday's hot ride, it came on over and over. Today...zilch. I wonder if it is healing?

My wife reminded me that we hit a heck of a bump (really high ridge of asphalt on a highway where some dweeb didn't compact the asphalt repair properly. It drew a yelp from her and bounced the rear off the ground at 60mph. I'm starting to think that might have jarred a connection loose. But I won't know until I've got an error code. The cruise control IS working right now, but I couldn't get it to work early this AM.
Does the over drive light come on in 5th?
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 11:30 AM
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As the FI light came on Tuesday, the codes are still in the ECM and can be pulled by the dealer when troubleshooting.

I hit one of those asphalt ridges up in North Dakota a few years ago. Jarred everything, the dash board reset so I had to pull over and restart the GPS as I was running guidance to the next overnight. Haven't had any problems since though.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 12:26 PM
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Thanks for the response. I've got a fairly good dealer just a couple of miles from me (near Lake Ray Hubbard). I did receive one bit of bad advice. I was told that disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes might rest the ECM, but that also erases previous error codes. So I have to ride until the error code pops back up. Of course on Tuesday's hot ride, it came on over and over. Today...zilch. I wonder if it is healing?

My wife reminded me that we hit a heck of a bump (really high ridge of asphalt on a highway where some dweeb didn't compact the asphalt repair properly. It drew a yelp from her and bounced the rear off the ground at 60mph. I'm starting to think that might have jarred a connection loose. But I won't know until I've got an error code. The cruise control IS working right now, but I couldn't get it to work early this AM.
There's no power on the ECM when you turn off the key. Just turning off the key will clear the code unless it's a "hard" failure, like an injector failure code. You can retrieve the code yourself with the side stand method. If it comes on again, pull over, put it in neutral, then put the side stand down and let it idle. It should start flashing long and short flashes, count them and we can look them up.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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I did not specifically look for the over drive light, but I do believe it was absent, because I kept looking for the engine warning light. The side stand light works. And the cruise control worked, and then didn't work. In a brief conversation with a service adviser at the dealer, I was told the error codes would be erased due to me disconnecting the battery. Is that true?

I didn't ride long today, just some local errands, but there were no issues with the engine...seems as smooth as ever. And there were no error codes/light.

Thanks for the help. It is appreciated.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 07:35 AM
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I did not specifically look for the over drive light, but I do believe it was absent, because I kept looking for the engine warning light. The side stand light works. And the cruise control worked, and then didn't work. In a brief conversation with a service adviser at the dealer, I was told the error codes would be erased due to me disconnecting the battery. Is that true?

I didn't ride long today, just some local errands, but there were no issues with the engine...seems as smooth as ever. And there were no error codes/light.

Thanks for the help. It is appreciated.
The error codes will go away if the key is turned off, unless it is a hard code, such as an injector code. It's not one of those or it would have not allowed the engine to restart once you turned it off. If the neutral and overdrive lights fail to come on and it won't do reverse, this could be all related to the gear position sensor and/or its wiring. This sensor also tells the ECM what gear you are in and will cause it to throw a code. It can also kill the cruise control and the reverse, both systems need to know what gear you are in to function properly. The sensor is inside the transmission cover on the front of the engine and the wires run up and back to their harness plug near the throttle body under the air box.
Here's a picture of it:



Now with all of that said, if you put the bike in neutral with no neutral light and try to start it, will it start or do you have to pull in the clutch lever to start it? If it will start in neutral without pulling in the clutch lever, then the issue is not the gear position switch. If this is the case, there's most likely an issue with the gauge assembly and/or its harness plugs. If you have a bad connection with one of them, you can lose the indicators as well as some of the signals involved with the other systems. If the gauge's harness is the culprit you will have to check the connectors under the left fairing pocket in the white frame and then check the connectors on the back of the gauges.

If it won't start in neutral unless you pull in the clutch lever, then you will need to dig in and check the harness connection for the gear position sensor. The sensor could be bad, but they usually don't fail like this. They usually fail by being intermittent, with intermittent indicators being the first clue. Good luck and keep us posted on what you find. I won't be online much today, but I will be on later this evening if you have more questions.

As a side note, you should have your battery load tested. Since it's 5 years old, it might be getting a little weak.

Rob's Candy Red '04

Last edited by techdude2000; 06-17-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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I do believe you've narrowed it down, and in a very concise manner. Thank you!

My bike will start in neutral, but only with the clutch disengaged. The over drive light does not light.

As for the battery, I can load test it, but it is approaching an age where a failure is too likely. And when the wife and I are riding in the far reaches of a distant state, I don't want to be waiting on the side of the road for an Amazon drone. So I'll probably go ahead and replace it. I had a battery last six years in my Valkyrie (battery tendered when parked), and I think that is about the max lifespan.

I am disappointed in my local dealer, though. I'm not sure that they are very knowledgeable about Wings. They sell a heck of a lot of sport bikes, UTVs, and ATVs though. But there is never more than one Wing on the floor, and they sit there for a long, long time. I tried to buy one from them, but they acted like an brand that will be unnamed, and wouldn't consider discounting the bike once cent from the sticker price, though it had been on the floor for months. They couldn't offer any diagnostic insights beyond reading the error codes. They definitely did not know that not all codes are erased when the battery is disconnected. They just wanted to read the code manually. I'm not sure they even have the required computer system.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 10:15 AM
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Wait for @techdude2000 to speak, but I believe no neutral light, no start in neutral without pulling clutch lever AND no overdrive light when in 5th gear all combine to confirm a bad gear position sensor or lost connection in the associated wiring.

If warranty is still good, I would find another Dealer that seems to have a clue.

If not warranty, with a bad back I don't think you will want to spend a lot of time working up and in behind the front wheel to dig it out yourself. You might consider talking to @Fred H. He is near Fort Worth and would get it done right. By Texas standards, he is your neighbor.

Back to watching and listening. When techdude speaks, we always listen and learn. (Dealer Wing mechanics would be wise to do the same!!!)

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