Right Handlebar Switch Replacement Help?? - GL1800Riders
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
CBX
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Right Handlebar Switch Replacement Help??

I need to replace the right handlebar switch on my '02 GL1800. I have a Honda Service manual, but, I can't find where it addresses this. Is there a way to disconnect the throttle cables from the switch assembly without having to disconnect the cables from their lower ends? In other words, how do you unscrew them from the switch assembly once the assembly is separated from the bar and the grip is removed?

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 01:32 PM
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Switch removal

CBX... Just curious... Why are you replacing the switch assembly? Possible some contacts may just need cleaning. Anyway, this may work.

1. Loosen the barrel adjusting locknut on the one cable and turn the adjuster sleeve to get the most "slack" in the cable.
2. With the switch seperated in half and wires disconnected, twist the throttle to open.
3. Then, slowly release the throttle grip while holding (pinching) the cable back from retracting back into the cable housing. The cable will slacken and loop up enough to remove cable end from the notch in the throttle sleeve. You can then remove the other cable.
4. Loosen the cable locknuts on the switch housing. One of the cables should not be threaded into the switch housing. The other one is.
5. With the one cable removed from the housing, you should be able to un-screw the switch housing from the cable end.
6. Assemble in reverse order. I use a little lithium grease on the inside of the throttle sleeve where it rotates on the handle bar.
7. If this does not work, please nobody flame me. I have never needed to replace a switch assembly on a GoldWing, but this method has worked on other bikes.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks 30. That's exactly what I needed to know. The cruise on/off button is stuck in the on position It only pushes in part of the way. I had been able to free it using contact cleaner in the past. But, now nothing I've done would get it working. So I bought a new switch assembly. In fact, most all my buttons jam from time to time. So far the cruise button has been the only one that I couldn't get working with contact cleaner. BTW, did you find how to remove the assembly in the service manual as I have look all through it.

Thanks again, Mark

Current stable:
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'01 Kaw. ZX-12R Ninja Metallic Phantom Silver
'99 Buell X1 Lightning Carbon Fiber Extreme Factory Ltd. Edition #173
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBX View Post
Thanks 30. That's exactly what I needed to know. The cruise on/off button is stuck in the on position It only pushes in part of the way. I had been able to free it using contact cleaner in the past. But, now nothing I've done would get it working. So I bought a new switch assembly. In fact, most all my buttons jam from time to time. So far the cruise button has been the only one that I couldn't get working with contact cleaner. BTW, did you find how to remove the assembly in the service manual as I have look all through it.

Thanks again, Mark
Hi Mark,
Obviously you have already found that you can't buy individual switches.

Those switches are notorious for sticking. Check Fred Harmon's site for switch repair.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/reverseswitch

As for the cruise on/off sw, mine hasn't worked for several years. Since it is stuck in the on position and I can't see any reason to turn it off, I just ignore it.

Good Luck!

Cruise On,
Ron
2001 FLHTCUI - Scarlet Red/Birch White
2003 GL1800 - Candy Red
2005 Thunderbird - Inca Gold
2011 Shelby GT500 - Red/W

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 12:43 PM
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Went on a trip the other day and found my Cruise Control swithch was stuck in but the Cruise didn't work.

If your switch is stuck and your cruise works my advice is leave it alone.

I got in there today to find out what the problem was and found that the little brass rod that squirrels the switch to stay on or off was worn and the plastic grooves that the rod travels in are worn also.

The switch needs to be replaced because of the worn parts.

Now I find you cannot buy the switch; you must buy the entire assembly!!! $150.00.

Anyone who thinks they are lubing their switches by spraying past the buttons is only fooling themselves. There is no way you can lube those switches without dis-assembling them. There ain't no spray made that can go through the plastic boxes that surround the switches.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I got lucky and won a new switch assembly on eBay for about $60.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...69434&viewitem=

I actually have had decent luck taking the switch assemblies apart and spraying them with contact cleaner. But it won't work when the switch is broken. Plus, my kill button has faded to PINK! Therefore, replacement of the assembly is mandatory.

Current stable:
'02 GL1800 Black
'01 Kaw. ZX-12R Ninja Metallic Phantom Silver
'99 Buell X1 Lightning Carbon Fiber Extreme Factory Ltd. Edition #173
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 11:23 PM
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Plug in

I have the throttle cables off and the top of the dash off, but I can't find where the cable plugs in. Do I need to take off the front of the fairing or how do you get to the plug?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 10:07 AM
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They plug in underneath the information panel. One owner suggested taking the front nose off to get better access to the plugs underneath the information panel. I recommend that. F4 shields has a very easy directions on how to do that without removing alot of parts. You can get that from their web page. I got large meathooks for hands and this was a godsent.

Make sure if you disconnect any of the plugs from the information panel that you verify that they are plugged in completely before you move on to re-assembly.

They click when connected and make sure you replace the weather boot also. If not you'll be pulling the fairling apart because something won't work on your information panel and that will piss you off.

Also, make sure you properly route the two cables from you right switch bundle. DON'T try and jam the inside cowling if the cables are no routed correctly. I just got done replacing my main wiring harness (absolutely not fun in that task) because of damaged wires from the right side (rear information signals).

Charlie Morse
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 10:58 AM
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Folks,

I have become expert at COMPLETELY disassebling the individual switches inside the handlebar switch housings on my old GL1200. It is do-able.

They can be disassembled, old hardened lube removed, the contacts cleaned, re-lubed, and reassembled.

I can see no reason why you could not do the same thing to the individual switches on a GL1800.
Anyone out there who has done so, please chime in.

Having looked at the pics Waldo posted of the internal switches, they look pretty much the same as those on my old Wing.

***

--------------------------------
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1987 GL1200A - Black/Gray
1981 CB750 Custom - Blue/Blue
1969 BSA 650 Lightning - Red/Chrome
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBX View Post
BTW, did you find how to remove the assembly in the service manual as I have look all through it.

Thanks again, Mark
Remove the cover at the tree which hides the bar mounting bolts. Remove the two bolts holding the bar to the tree. With the housing/assembly loose, you can slip it off the end and you're free of the bar.

Here's a pic of the interior. ALL SCREWS TAKE A #2 PHILLIPS regardless of apparent size. You can make any SAE Phillips work as a JIS Phillips by grinding off the point a little.




'06 Chrome on Black on Black
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