Step-By-Step Build Journal Motorcycle Teardrop - GL1800Riders
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Step-By-Step Build Journal Motorcycle Teardrop

Folks,

I've undertaken building a teardrop trailer camper that is towable by the Wing! You can check here regularly to see updates as I get them and make them postable. I'll be including time-laps video from various angles, photos to show particular design features and how-tos, and probably some lessons learned as well!

Here is the platform with which I'm starting: Harbor Freight bolt-together 4x8' foldable trailer. 8" tires (which I'll probably be upgrading to 12").

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105522&thumb=1

These are the parts I didn't bother putting on because I was going to either build them myself or wouldn't be needing them. The whole goal is weight savings without sacrificing strength and integrity of the trailer!

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105530&thumb=1

This double cross member is a waste also, if I'm not looking to fold, so one of them is coming off!

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105538&thumb=1

The interior floor will be stained marine-grade plywood, and the intention is to not have carriage bolts or hex heads sticking up into the living space, so I've decided I will mount 4x4 pressure-treated blocks into the c-channel cross members with lag screws, and then drive countersunk stainless screws through the interior floor into the blocks. I didn't want to drill additional holes into the cross members, so I'm using the 3/8" diameter holes they already had punched in them!

These holes:
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105546&thumb=1

With this block:
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105554&thumb=1

Clamped in place like so:
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105562&thumb=1

Drilled like so with 1/4" wood auger bit:
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105570&thumb=1

Fits nicely and gives me a nice flush mounting surface for the marine-grade plywood, kind of like this:
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105586&thumb=1

Screwed with 3" x 3/8" galvanized/zinc-coated lag screws with a washer against the painted surface of the cross member:
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attac...105578&thumb=1

Here's one time-lapse video of the build. There will be 2 more coming shortly...

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...97884494003571
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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And if somebody can tell me how to make the pictures show up right in the thread, that would be GREAT!

If I had asked the people what they wanted, they would've said "Faster Horses"

-Henry Ford
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 07:43 AM
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Thank you for posting, am looking forward to following your progress....

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Day 2 was spent redoing work from Day 1 based on a redesign, so watchers of the Day 1 Time Lapse won't see much difference between that and the Day 2 time lapse.

Original post showed progress from Day 2 because Day 1 was discarded.

The first part of today was spent cutting a rabbett in both sides of the marine grade plywood because the frame rails on the trailer sit higher than the cross bars. The rabbett was about 1/8" deep. After applying a 1/4" bead of polyurethane glue around the frame, carriage bolts were used through the deck into the frame and fastened using the leftover nuts supplied with the trailer for hardware that was not installed.





We traced the outline of one of two of the cleats while underneath the trailer. This serves as a locating guide for cutting the reliefs for our quick-release bicycle mounts that will be placed inside and used for transporting the bicycles. They'll be removable with wingnuts for sleepy time!







Drilled pilot holes with countersink for the stainless steel wood screws that hold the deck down in the interior living area. Carriage bolts used around the perimeter will be hidden by sidewalls and the corresponding cleats that tie the sidewalls to the base, but inside, didn't want anything sticking up, so we laid out screw locations with blue chalk line (not the red, it's IMPOSSIBLE to get off!), countersunk them, then ran the screws in!



Final picture of the day's progress:



Next step will be to flip the trailer again, embed foam board into the frame spaces, glue it on, and then seal the bottom with basement sealer!

By the way, anybody else think it's awesome that Brigit jumps right in and helps get it done!?! I LOVE it!

Here are the time lapse videos:

Day 2 Camera 2

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...65033716684141

Day 3 Camera 1 Part 1

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...04673939028918

Day 3 Camera 1 Part 2

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...88249225798249

Day 3 Camera 2 Part 1

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...17508417928591
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Latest Update on the Teardrop Build

Ok, so I've gotten a fair amount of foundational work done in the last week. I've had a few misgivings in general about peoples' approach to building these teardrops. I understand this is not a teardrop forum, but hey, their servers are down or slow more than they're up, so you guys get the satisfaction of reading about this build in its entirety here!

When towing with a motorcycle, there are a few design constraints that are substantially more limiting than when towing with a car. These are:

1) Height/width can result in substantial wind resistance in the forward direction, which results in a load that is a greater percentage of the overall vehicle's aerodynamic drag than would normally be perceived by a car due to the car's already-large frontal area.

2) Side profile height can act as a sail in cross winds, and since rubber contact with the pavement is very small compared to the 4-wheelers, wind is a force to be reckoned with in a bigger way than with the 4-wheelers.

3) Weight is severely limited to an upper limit of ~400-500 lbs, based on feedback from lots of folks here on the forums.

Today's post is going to identify some design philosophies that went into designing AROUND these 3 limiting factors.

Problems with most teardrop designs I've seen are as follows:

1) They add needless wood framing that replicates the underlying trailer framing. If the trailer frame is there, USE IT! Don't replicate the frame in wood directly on top of it! It adds useless weight and increases height by the thickness of the wooden frame.

2) They don't take advantage of the space inside the frame. They want to insulate the bottom of the trailer (rightly so, to keep it from sweating) and so they add a layer of foam on top of the wasteful wooden frame, thereby further increasing the height.

3) They take advantage of the full 4' width of the plywood to make the teardrop as tall as possible to give themselves as much room as possible. There is nothing wrong with this approach. It's a good tradeoff if you've got the luxury of pulling with a car. I wouldn't say this is a problem, as much as it just doesn't balance well for what we need for the motorcycle.

4) They build the walls out of 3/4" plywood or 1/2" plywood with insulation and then 1/8" ply on that insulation give it a nice finished look. This eats up space inside (and I'm building this camper for two!) and adds weight. In addition, 3/4" plywood is way overbuilt. This camper needs to support its own weight, and aero loading, and that's it. We're not placing 250 lbs of cargo on top of it.

Here's what I'm gonna do about it!

1) Lay the plywood directly on the trailer frame. See previous posts for details on that!

2) Use the space between the trailer frame members to place foam board and expanding foam insulation. In retrospect, I wish I had routed my wiring through there before doing this, or at least placed a channel to run them in, but I didn't. Oh well. Live and learn!



2" foam board (extruded polystyrene) fits nicely inside the HF trailer frame rails. Cut nicely using a PVC saw and a jab saw for drywall for getting around the wooden blocks.



In some cases, the foam board had to be split in two to fit into one of the bays because it was interfering with the hardware and structure for the leaf spring supports.



This hardware...



Add weight to the top and let that polyurethane glue set up overnight!



Fill gaps with expanding foam and let that foam cure overnight. I didn't and it was more of a pain than it was worth!

Slower is faster!

Now all of those gaps need to be filled with basement sealer or some other such sealer to keep moisture from getting up in there. In retrospect, I wish we had used water and ice barrier for roofing. Live and learn. Used 2 coats of basement sealer.



Here are the time-lapse videos depicting how this job!

Foam Work:
https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...03840876005619

More Foam Work:
https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...46142111262923

Happy watching! Next post is about the cutting of the sides and doors! That's a scary one...big money involved and you want it to be perfect! Stay tuned...
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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So we've decided the use the "Superlegerra" profile as the basis for our motorcycle teardrop. The design was free and can be found here:

http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.u...perleggera.pdf

We've made the following modifications in keeping with the design constraints identified in the previous post:





This allows inside height of 38" with 2" of foam insulation on top, or inside height of 39" with 1" of foam insulation on top. For reference, the MyPod motorcycle-towable teardrop allows 37" of headroom inside!

Do your layout of your profile and door with the "A" side down...the pretty one. Whether you want that inside or outside is up to you, and you'll have to mirror/flip the design appropriately for the left and right sides. The reason for this is that when you're cutting the contours out, the top side will always have a rougher finish because the teeth on the saw blade rip out because those surface wood fibers are not supported by anything. I used a hitachi jigsaw with fine wood blades to get the cleanest cut I could.



When it's time to cut the door, don't use a drill to start your cuts. Start by standing the jigsaw up on its nose and very slowly lower it onto the contour. You'll be using this cutout to make your door, so you don't want a big start hole in it. Take your time and be as precise as possible and it'll work out nicely!

As you get near corners and the door begins to fall out, clamp it in place to keep the wood from tearing when there is no longer enough wood to support the weight of the door. Another approach would be to place a sawhorse under it that is the same height as the ones holding the side panels, but if you've only got two, you've only got two, and so you've got to get creative.





Once complete, stand your beauty up and marvel at its splendor! Be careful because this side panel leaves just enough room to attach cross braces and foam at the top, and cleats at the bottom in the area of the door. This is the weak portion of the panel. Handling it should be done carefully so as not to break it.



Balanced the side on the trailer base just long enough to snap a picture. Kind of scary. I was actually tiptoeing around the shop so as not to shake the floor and make the panel fall! That milk crate will give you some perspective on how high this thing is. The top of the side panels will only be about 1/8" below the actual top of the camper.



Time lapse images, including interrupting the build to go get a hitachi jigsaw because my el-cheapo walmart special broke in the middle of the project!

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...59106358622175

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...57468983837468

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...46271994729977

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...92291192879369

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...89009726286961

Next step will be to route grooves into the side panels for the rear bulkhead based on the layout needed for the galley, and then to cut out the matching slots for the roof spars!
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 07:54 AM
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I hope you can keep the weight down . So far it's looking great . I have wanted one also . But I am afraid of it being too heavy . I seen yesterday that northern tool sells and all aluminum trailer now for $399 . Shipping weight I think was 136 lbs , so maybe . Next winter after seeing the weight of yours . Not that I NEED another trailer , but ya know .
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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I looked quite a while for an all aluminum, but couldn't find one next trailer! I think the next one is going to be mostly foam and carbon fiber...and an aluminum trailer frame

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If I had asked the people what they wanted, they would've said "Faster Horses"

-Henry Ford
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Latest and greatest on the teardrop build:

To get a nice, rounded contour along the top of the teardrop, I needed to have some sort of clean edge to run the router along with the rounding bit. I tried several things to place on the inside of the sidewalls to provide that edge (since I'm using 1/2" plywood and a 1/2" rounding bit, I need some edge to ride along). I tried several variants. The first one was a temporary piece of vinyl edging from Lowes. I figured I would staple it in place after cutting the edge to allow it to flex along the contour, and then once I get the nice rounded edge I would proceed to put in cross members to support the roof.



This vinyl was flimsier than I would've liked considering I was going to use it as a guide for routing on a $50 piece of plywood, so I opted to do away with it. Then I realized I could make one out of wood by cutting multiple kerfs into a thicker piece of wood and that would not only give me my routing edge, but would be able to be left in place for screwing the top skin down to.







On the more gradual radii along the contour, this worked fine, except for having to pilot drill every hole, and the wood still broke at some weak spots along the way. It also took forever to do one side, so I decided to scrap this idea also (say goodbye to 3 hours worth of work )

I finally settled on some 1" aluminum angle from Menards with 1/16" wall thickness. They come in 8-ft sections for $14 ea, and I figured I would need 4. I then marked off every inch, and cut a V between every other set to give myself the flexibility I would need around the radii. My lovely wife then drilled out every remaining tab, and this solution worked WONDERFULLY!









After this, I routed along the entire outside edge. One thing that should be pointed out is that, in the hatch area, where the galley will be accessible on the back side of the camper, the galley lid will need its own support structure and will have to be recessed. The aluminum trim is kept in place to provide the nice clean routing edge, and once the routing is over, the trim is removed from the galley portion and will be moved downward ~3/4" to provide a solid seating surface for the galley hatch. Here are the time-lapse videos!

What NOT to do...

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...38768029970435

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...95745306685872

What TO do...

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...06916976991382

https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...53424512956758

(notice this one also contains some video of putting the grooves in with the router that will support all of the structure in the galley!)

The next post is going to go over galley construction and putting sidewalls up on the camper. It's starting to look like a thing!
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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This post will go through galley construction. It's mostly pictures and videos with very little about the dimensions used, but all galley bulkheads and dividers are 1/2" thick Birch plywood. We cut with a standard ripping blade (shame on us) and had a little splintering, but always had the splintering on the "B" side of the sheet because we placed the "A" side down. We also routed off most edges to provide a more finished look and also to help it fit nicely into the ends of the grooves that were cut with a router (since they were cut with the router, the end of the groove is circular in shape, and so we rounded boards to match the circular end shape).

We split the galley up into roughly 3 equal sections in width. The right side will be where the sink, charger, and battery are located. The shore power hookup will also be there (as well as water hookup). The left side will be a stack of storage cabinets, drawers, and shelves. You can see the outlines for the shelving support here:



And for better perspective...



The sink will sit here, except it will sit up on the shelf that you can see the support groove for just above the sink...



The inside of the sleeping compartment will also have a set of cabinets for keeping clothing in etc. The cutout was a little rough because yours truly failed to keep the router against the edge guide he set up (here's to learning how to use a router, huh?)





And of course, I realized I forgot to put the matching cutout in the right side panel after I had screwed everything together (here is where it will go)



I know, I'm an idiot, but at least I didn't glue anything together, so I guess that will be a dry fitup, and when I take it apart, I'll fix all of my mistakes, and actually glue them back together on reassembly. Learning a lot through this portion of the build!

I'll get some work done on it tonight, and then will be on vacation playing the rest of the week, so don't expect too much progress between now and then!

Here are the time-lapse videos:

Cutting out the galley shelving/bulkheads:
https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...23228305832929

Assembling said shelving and attaching to left side:
https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...40599371152769

Putting the right side on the camper!
https://www.facebook.com/brett.kowal...15898048542760
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If I had asked the people what they wanted, they would've said "Faster Horses"

-Henry Ford

Last edited by 2BsInAPod; 04-18-2016 at 12:35 PM.
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