To Traxxion or not? - Page 2 - GL1800Riders
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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 05:49 PM
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Glad I found this discussion thread, good stuff here!
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Current bikes: 2008 Honda Gold Wing, 2013 Kawasaki ZX-10R (track/race only)
Past bikes: Harley Sportster and Road King, Honda VTX 1800 F2, two Honda CBR1000RR (one street / one track)
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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 09:02 PM
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When I had my 01 1800 triked on of the options was new progressive springs or traxxion springs. I'm sure the springs they took out were wore out and had traction springs put in. I good tell a difference right off. I guess to describe the difference it felt softer yet stuck to the road in a curve. Maybe some day I mite go with the traction tubes. Needless to say I'm glad I had them installed.

When you have one, ride it. If you have one and don't ride it, whats the point.
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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 01:19 PM
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I think the best bang for the buck update in the front is a racetech gold valve rebuild with new springs and disabling the anti dive, it is not difficult to do yourself if you are mechanically inclined, just note how things come a part, the climber manual is good enough to use to take a part the forks. It is also not difficult to change the triple tree, just take your time. I have a Traxxion triple tree and no fork brace. It may take you a couple of times to get the steering head bearing set, generally you will tend set it too tight on the first pass. I also started off with 1.1kg springs and went with .95kg springs and like that better. The shock well that has been harder for me to dial in. With a stiffer setup you will tend to get what I call a "cal-clunk cal-clunk" stiff response on smaller road edge bumps like a road with lots of cracks across it. On the shock you can go with a Racetech rebuild or a Traxxion setup they will both end up around $600 I think. You have to take the tank out to remove the shock, but once you have done it once taking the tank out becomes pretty easy. Also you don't have to remove the right bag to get the adjuster out, just take the bolts out of the right bag and you will have enough room to get the hydraulic adjuster out. if you are going to change your air filter once you have the bike down to do that, the tank comes out in 10 minutes. I did not try the traxxion shock, I have run with the Racetech rebuilt shock for about 15K miles it has been ok, but not perfect. For the price either the Traxxion or the racetech rebuild may end up being good enough of you. This weekend I put in a full racetech GS3 unit with the stock Honda hydraulic adjuster, the weather just turned bad so I have little time on it, but it is much better on hard edge response and has adjustable rebound dampening, is it $300 better, as it's $900 after you return your stock shock to them, than the stock racetech rebuild or a traxxion , well that's the debate. Overall I have no complaints on the racetech front end rebuild, it has been good and I like the springs a tad bit lighter than they initially recommended. So what I have accomplished with the suspension changes, well I have a sport type suspension response, the bike no longer pushes in any cornering, and the steering response is much quicker and gives me much more confidence. I have given up some of the plushness though, the stock suspension is a big comfy sofa and it works great in a straight line and when the roads are not overly rough. If you just put along and go slower the stock suspension works great. I like the sofa feeling but could not deal with it in the corners or when maneuvering the bike. If you change the suspension realize you will give up some of that nice sofa comfort if the roads are a little rougher. Maybe the full monty does better on the rougher roads than the race tech, but you do have adjustments you can play with in the gold valves to dial in a little plusher response on the front. Have fun either way it's a fun bike to work on and tinker with.
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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Wow! Great responses and lots to consider. I even got a couple of offers to spend time personally talking with a couple of Veteran Goldwingers about my suspension needs and help in my decision process... which I will be taking advantage of 😀!!!

This a Great Forum!

Thanks 😎
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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 07:47 PM
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Best bang for the buck is as follows:

Front wheel = Progressive Monotubes, All balls steering bearings, fork brace, disable the anti dive valve (but don't do the anti dive disable until you get a stiffer suspension).

Rear Wheel = just keep the suspension at 25 all the time and make certain the actuator begins loading at about 2-3. To do this put the bike on the centerstand, run the rear suspension down to 1 and listen for a pitch change when you run the numbers back up and notice what number is displayed.

This is all I have done and I can take my hands off the bars at any speed with no problems.
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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 08:43 PM
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The stock suspension on my 2012 works great! this motorcycle is handles fantastically just as is it came from the factory.... but its your money.... spend it anyway you want
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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 08:18 AM
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I just had my front end traxxioned, I'm having my bike triked out as we speak, so I have not had the chance to ride it yet, but I did replace the front end..........I'll have to let you know how I like it after my first ride in a couple of weeks...
Sorry I couldn't of been more help BUT I did go for it.........

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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 09:47 AM
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I went with the Full Monty...Yes it was not cheap for the total package,and install, but it is a totally new bike...I would go Full Monty if you have the spare$$$

John



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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggersm View Post
Best bang for the buck is as follows:

Front wheel = Progressive Monotubes, All balls steering bearings, fork brace, disable the anti dive valve (but don't do the anti dive disable until you get a stiffer suspension).

Rear Wheel = just keep the suspension at 25 all the time and make certain the actuator begins loading at about 2-3. To do this put the bike on the centerstand, run the rear suspension down to 1 and listen for a pitch change when you run the numbers back up and notice what number is displayed.

This is all I have done and I can take my hands off the bars at any speed with no problems.
Gotta disagree with your front wheel best bang for buck. MT, fork brace and all balls will cost you $650. Traxxion tree with all balls is $500 and springs are $100 so only $600 and IMO it is a MUCH better front end. Your setup is definitely better than stock, but speaking from experience of both, I like my setup better.

On my 2001 I had a fork brace and I couldn't tell much difference with or without it. I put in a billet triple tree and it was night and day. I had MT on my 2001 and it was ok but they weren't stiff enough for me. I moved to custom spring rates on my 2013 and it works better for me at 1/3 the cost.

Current Stable:
2016 KTM Super Duke GT
2015 Honda Grom
2015 Yamaha FZ-09
2013 Honda GL1800 ABS
2007 Suzuki GSXR 600 (Track)
2004 Suzuki GSXR 750 (Track)

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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 08:10 PM
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The Traxxion set-up made a big difference in my opinion. I had the Mega-Monty set-up done at their shop in Woodstock GA the end of May and I am happy with the ride.
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