Repairing Munged/Stripped Seat Bolts - Page 2 - GL1800Riders
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 10:32 AM
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I like the idea of chasing with a tap first, and then bringing out the big guns if that doesn't work. Good info in the original post.

Do the threads here go all the way through the flanges on the frame? If yes, then try running the tap through from the back. It's less likely to further screw up the mangled threads at the front of the hole.

I'm trying to remember if it was this I screwed up a while back, or something else. Anyway, I've done that before (chase from the back end), but not sure it was here. Like UncleJohn, I use some screwdrivers sometimes for positioning, and may put in a bolt or two with just fingers and no grab handle in the way to get things lined up.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 10:43 AM
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Thread chasers are better than a tap. They remove a lot less material from the hole.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 01:20 PM
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Based on advise from someone here (I can't find the thread now) I purchased a 5/16" wooden dowel from a local hardware store, cut 4 8" (or so...) pieces from it and then sharpened one end of each using a standard pencil sharpener. These work really well. You can fit them in and work them around to aid in getting the seat properly aligned without risk of munging up the threads on the frame. Then just pull one out at a time and insert the seat bolt. Easy-Peasy
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
Based on advise from someone here (I can't find the thread now) I purchased a 5/16" wooden dowel from a local hardware store, cut 4 8" (or so...) pieces from it and then sharpened one end of each using a standard pencil sharpener. These work really well. You can fit them in and work them around to aid in getting the seat properly aligned without risk of munging up the threads on the frame. Then just pull one out at a time and insert the seat bolt. Easy-Peasy
That's a nice little trick, I'll have to remember that one.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 06:27 PM
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That's a nice little trick, I'll have to remember that one.
Yep, that's a keeper since to do just about anything to a Wing involves removing the seat.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
Based on advise from someone here (I can't find the thread now) I purchased a 5/16" wooden dowel from a local hardware store, cut 4 8" (or so...) pieces from it and then sharpened one end of each using a standard pencil sharpener. These work really well. You can fit them in and work them around to aid in getting the seat properly aligned without risk of munging up the threads on the frame. Then just pull one out at a time and insert the seat bolt. Easy-Peasy
Excellent suggestion. But needs to be a 1/4" dowel. 5/16" is too big (won't fit in 8mm threads).
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ndfan77 View Post
Excellent suggestion. But needs to be a 1/4" dowel. 5/16" is too big (won't fit in 8mm threads).
5/16" is what I use and what was recommended and it works great. It doesn't have to fit all the way in (in fact, you don't want this). You want it to wedge in there and hold the seat in the correct position. You just wiggle the dowels around a little and the seat just lines-up with the hole. Works every time.

Remember to sharpen one end of each dowel in a standard pencil sharpener.

However, YMMV. Get the size that works for you.

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 09:34 AM
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I messed up my forward left-side threads reinstalling the seat on my GL1800 2nd gen the first time I had it off.

I wasn't particularly hard on it when trying to reassemble. I was using a hex-bit attached to a spinner/socket handle, so I couldn't have put much torque on it. But, the bolt would only thread in for four to five turns without binding up and getting very hard to turn (and I had a sinking feeling that something was wrong with the threads). I pulled the seat back off and looked at the threads and it was clear they were permanently damaged. It's hard to believe the way I was trying to thread the bolt in could have done that -- but who knows. (Had I known then that the frame threads were aluminum I would have been twice as gentle -- but of course if they were already messed up that would not have helped.)

After doing quite a bit of searching on the thread repair subject it seemed clear that Time-Sert was favored over other methods (if you want to repair it right the first time). So, even though it was a bit more expensive I bought the parts needed from Amazon, waited several days for them to arrive, and now couldn't be happier with the result.

This is the parts list I used:

And, a URL to an instructional video on using Time-Sert.

FWIW in case it helps someone else in the same boat...
This is exactly what I had todo to my 2013. Easy todo and haven't had a problem since the insert is hardened steel and not soft aluminum.

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