Repairing Munged/Stripped Seat Bolts - GL1800Riders
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Repairing Munged/Stripped Seat Bolts

I messed up my forward left-side threads reinstalling the seat on my GL1800 2nd gen the first time I had it off.

I wasn't particularly hard on it when trying to reassemble. I was using a hex-bit attached to a spinner/socket handle, so I couldn't have put much torque on it. But, the bolt would only thread in for four to five turns without binding up and getting very hard to turn (and I had a sinking feeling that something was wrong with the threads). I pulled the seat back off and looked at the threads and it was clear they were permanently damaged. It's hard to believe the way I was trying to thread the bolt in could have done that -- but who knows. (Had I known then that the frame threads were aluminum I would have been twice as gentle -- but of course if they were already messed up that would not have helped.)

After doing quite a bit of searching on the thread repair subject it seemed clear that Time-Sert was favored over other methods (if you want to repair it right the first time). So, even though it was a bit more expensive I bought the parts needed from Amazon, waited several days for them to arrive, and now couldn't be happier with the result.

This is the parts list I used:

And, a URL to an instructional video on using Time-Sert.

FWIW in case it helps someone else in the same boat...
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Last edited by ndfan77; 01-07-2017 at 09:00 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 07:14 PM
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I just ran a tap through mine when it stripped on my F6B seat.
Then I bought the tapered bolts from Wing Stuff.
Never been an issue again.

Doug

I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 07:44 PM
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TIME SERTS are a great way to repair damaged threads, but I doubt you need that for this application, I agree with Flat6Bagger, get a tap, run it thru to clean up the threads and then check the threads on the seat bolts to be sure they are not damaged, carefully reinstall the bolts with the seat off to be sure everything works. Yes the tapered bolts would be a huge advantage. You could make you own tapered bolts, run a couple of nuts up on the bolt and so you can chase the threads afterwards. Using a grinder or file taper the end of the bolt to a point then chase the threads by removing the nuts and maybe reinstalling them to be sure the bolt starts correctly.
Good Luck let us know how you make out.

Steve Kowalcky
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:17 PM
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Thread chasers will sometimes do the trick.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...ad-chaser-sets


There are multiple sources/types out there -- the link above just happened to be the first example google found.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:25 PM
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Thread chasers should be the first choice for this problem as it involves the least amount of metal removal.



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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:32 PM
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Good job on covering the pretty parts up during the repair. You may have been able to chase the threads, but it's done now and good to go. Thanks for sharing.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:41 PM
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Here's what I did on my '01 and have never had an issue reinserting and tightening the seat bolts....and no I didn't taper the ends of the bolts.


Those four things (soft hockey puck type thingies ) in the seat's bolt hole pocket, I don't know what they are called, but the first couple times I ever removed the seat they would always misalign with the frame hole or even fall out while putting the seat back on. I used about a whole tube of silicone to hold them in place and aligned with the frame holes. Now I just visually check with a flashlight to see that they are aligned before screwing the bolt in by hand. With everybody always posting about these bolt and frame threads it seems obvious NOBODY ever checks the alignment with a FLASHLIGHT before jamming these bolts in and tightening them. It's quite a simple deal here really.


Allen
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flat6bagger View Post
I just ran a tap through mine when it stripped on my F6B seat.
Then I bought the tapered bolts from Wing Stuff.
Never been an issue again.
Thanks for responding!

I didn't have an 8mm x 1.25 tap, but I did try running a spare M8 bolt (that had enough threads) through it from the back to the front. When I put the seat back on and tried to (gently, by hand) thread the seat bolt back in (with the rear bolt already started) -- it did the same thing again (went in about four or five turns and then jammed to a stop).

The sense I had was the first four or five outboard threads were complete thrashed and, even though I could straighten them out by threading from the rear, they didn't have enough strength to keep the bolt in the right position when threading from outside in. So at that point I was convinced some type of insert was needed (and not having any knowledge on the subject).

Googling, for the most part seemed to focus on three options: 1) some type of Loctite compound 2) Helicoil inserts and, 3) Time-Sert inserts.

I've probably got enough OCD for three people, and figured I wanted to "fix it right the first time". I suspect options 1 and 2 might have worked quite well for awhile (maybe even the life of the bike while I owned it), but my non-educated, and non-experienced, but (usually pretty) intuitive sense was the Time-Sert option would leave me with the most durable repair (probably better than OEM since the threads are no longer aluminum). If that was true, I was willing to spend a bit more to do it since it was a brand-new bike.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 10:09 PM
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I can't address your issue but I am glad that you found a solid fix.
I have and always recommend that the first time I remove a GL seat I oil then run the bolt through the threads in the mounting lug.
I do this from the backside of the lug so that the threads are chased all of the way through.
No problems after that when remounting the seat.
Worked on all of my GLs.
Just an idea.

Tim

Phoenix, Az.


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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 04:01 AM
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I stick couple phillips head screwdrivers in hole on each side to align n then put bolts in other holes. Never had issue. Good post n info on "forever fix "
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