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Rear tire change

5K views 46 replies 27 participants last post by  rmcapozzi 
#1 ·
Tackled that job today. Laid the big girl on her side and proceeded. Pulled the mc tire out, it was more difficult than I thought it would be after watching the video. Putting on a ct. The inner fender made it a b*tch to fit in in. The amp didn't help any either. Had to take the center rear fender off and also the hitch receiver. What a pain in the arse. I even took out the valve stem. A job that the video showed as being maybe a half hour took me about three hours. I can see maybe a mc tire taking that long, but a ct I think will take a bit longer. Granted, I was a virgin this time and maybe next time it will not take as long.
 
#2 ·
Yes its cause your 1 st time its all in wiggling it over caliper . Do mine now with air in it . Helps if center stand pulled down to get bike up little more. You'd been in sad shape if had to do on side of road lol give us update on ct experience .welcome to darkside
 
#3 ·
I don't understand having to pull the amp/fender nor the hitch....the first time I did my 2006 (same level as the OP) on its side with a CT it took me more time to lay it down and pick it up again than it did to remove and reinstall the wheel/tire.
 
#4 ·
Simply put!

It shouldn't take any more than 5 - 10 min at max. Now today I want to do it all over again and don't take any of the stuff off that you did.
1) pump suspension up to 25.
2) lay over on side.
3) pull center out.
4) undo studs and yank tire out.
5) stuff tire back up in there, don't be too gentle.
6) get her back up and ride like the wind! :grin2:

Practice does make perfect!
 
#26 ·
It shouldn't take any more than 5 - 10 min at max. Now today I want to do it all over again and don't take any of the stuff off that you did.
1) pump suspension up to 25.
2) lay over on side.
3) pull center out.
4) undo studs and yank tire out.
5) stuff tire back up in there, don't be too gentle.
6) get her back up and ride like the wind! :grin2:

Practice does make perfect!

5.5) You may want to put the studs back on...totally up to you though :wink2:
 
#5 ·
Sometimes a trash bag over the tire will make them slip in easier. A little diluted dish washing detergent or Pledge on the left side wall where it contacts the inner fender will help too.

Last resort, after everything is lined up, slip a shovel under the edge of the tire that is on the the ground. Wiggle the handle side to side as you lever up and toward the bike. (Redneck crowbar.)
 
#6 ·
I use a garbage bag over the top of the tire and it really goes in quickly. Some times I hook a stud into the wheel and use it to pivot the tire in place. I do not pull the hitch or the fender off.

Best of luck to you,
 
#7 ·
Roadrunner1800 (Allen) is trying to talk me into replacing my rear tire also to a CT..
please let us know how you like it ok? He's beginning to be quite convincing!! I have not ridin one w/ a CT of yet so I'm not sure ....

Ronnie
 
#15 ·
Try it you'll like it!

Talk Allen into letting you ride his bike....:smile2:
 
#8 ·
After bike is on it's side and center stand down placing a short 2"x4" block under the center stand will raise rear wheel higher off the floor and allows tire to angle down more making it easier to remove/install tire.
 
#9 ·
V65, what size tire did you stuff in there? I've run 195s and 175s and never had a problem getting it to go in. No removal of hitch or pre amp.

I guess some folks who go with a 205 have those issues.

In any event, welcome to the DS. You'll never regret it, and never go back.....
 
#10 ·
If you forget to fold the center stand back up when done, you will really grunt when you pick the bike back up. After it pops up onto the center stand, you can smile about how stupid-strong you are and know that you will always be able to lift it - with the center stand properly folded up - when accidentally dropped later! ... Yes, I am stupid enough (once) to know!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#16 ·
Are you kidding?:bow: Thats amazing!
I cannot pick the bike up with out help and have tried for years.

Where on the seat do you place your butt? Bottom, top, center?
Would love to know.

Thanks for the help.

Mike
 
#11 ·
I find the easiest way to change the rear tire (in the garage) is to simply to put it on the center stand & remove & replace the tire, on the road a "tip over" may be preferred, but at home & on solid ground this is the easiest for me. jmop





 
#13 ·
I did not remove the amp nor the inner fender. I said that the inner fender made it a b*tch and the amp did not make it any easier. I had forgotten about using a garbage sack and yes I did put a 2x4 under the center stand and did not forget to put center stand up. I have been a darksider for some time now. Battle axe on the front and a ct on the rear. I just had a mc on back because I needed a rear tire like right now and could not find a ct in town. This is my 4th ct. Each ct has been a 195/60/16.
 
#14 ·
msnden - you've got a bike lift so you can get the rear end up high enough to get the wheel out. If you don't have a lift, then you also have to remove the trailer hitch - which makes the lay-down method much easier.


As to getting the tire into the wheel well, remove the valve stem core, place a plastic bag over the top of the tire and proceed to wedge and rock the tire up into place. Once on, pull the bag, install the core, air up, bolt up and go. By laying the bike on it's side, I can change out a tire in less than 10 minutes, and that includes training the person who's bike I'm working on.

 
#25 ·
msnden - you've got a bike lift so you can get the rear end up high enough to get the wheel out. If you don't have a lift, then you also have to remove the trailer hitch - which makes the lay-down method much easier.


As to getting the tire into the wheel well, remove the valve stem core, place a plastic bag over the top of the tire and proceed to wedge and rock the tire up into place. Once on, pull the bag, install the core, air up, bolt up and go. By laying the bike on it's side, I can change out a tire in less than 10 minutes, and that includes training the person who's bike I'm working on.

Yes, I see the "jack"in the photo but it is not used, the center stand works for me. don't know if it makes a difference but I am "Darkside" I don't have a trailer hitch either so I suppose that would make a difference, another thing to remember is to secure the center stand, I strap it to the front wheel. jmop
 
#23 ·
I already said I was stupid enough to do that ONCE. Not doing it again or posting Internet video of me being that stupid twice. So you can take you "BS" and place it ... But being down under, you would have to roll over first.:grin2:

I do have a lot of leverage, with a 38" inseam I have a bunch of leg to put into it. At least I did 4 years ago - once.
 
#19 ·
If a plastic bag is needed to help it fit because of how close it is, then why isn't there a concern about what may happen to the fender if the tire goes flat and gets wider as it wobbles around while trying to stop ?
 
#20 ·
It's just a bit of an interference fit while getting the tire itself past a tight spot between the inner fender liner and the wheel hub. Once it's past that, there is no interference - just a big open area at the center of the wheel hub where it bolts on the final drive. No rubbing. Also, the tire deforms about as much as a MT for a non-runflat. A runflat really doesn't deform all that much - that's why it's called a runflat (or run-on-flat).


And the bag is just to help it slide easier - things don't slide easily on clean rubber.

 
#27 ·
It would take a strong man full of adrenaline to do it, but Hoss (Ironhorse1800) is a big man in very good shape. I have no doubt that if he said it, he did it.


Glen
 
#29 ·
Just thoght I wold post a picture of me and ol' Hoss--
That's me in the BLUE shorts --

 
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#31 ·
Uncle John, I do not understand how the brake caliper could be involved. The rotor is part of the hub and on the right side with the caliper.


195-55R-16 should fit right in, even inflated. It does rub a little and the plastic bag would let it slip even easier. But, once you lay the bike on its right side you do need to pull the center stand down to lift the bike a little higher off the ground. Probably just a learning curve thing, don't sweat it.


prs
 
#37 ·
How about in under 5 minutes? lay on side, remove valve core, & lug nuts, remove wheel, replace wheel, torque nuts, air tire to 28 psi, stand bike back up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP0qJ16FfQM
Takes me a bit longer since I have to remove the right highway peg and roll the pre-mounted new tire over from against the wall and I have to deal with the centramatic which has to be removed prior to pulling the wheel out. Sometimes it's a little tricky but not bad. I gain a little back though since I never let the air out to remove or air back up after installing the new one. I've read about adding a block under the center stand to gain more clearance but haven't had to do that. I place carpet under the crash bars. This is so simple using this method.
 
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#47 ·
It definitely works. All 3 methods work (center stand, layover, lift). I think it is a good idea to be familiar with all the methods as sometimes depending on the situation, one may be better than the other.
 
#46 ·
Not if you have a trailer hitch installed. Then it's either lay the bike over, use a lift, or disassemble the rear end.
 
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