License Plate Mount for Bushtec Trailer (tips)
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Thread: License Plate Mount for Bushtec Trailer (tips)

  1. #1
    Seasoned Member SC Steve's Avatar
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    Default License Plate Mount for Bushtec Trailer (tips)

    I am looking for some tips, other than what is on the instructions, for putting a license plate on a Bushtec trailer.

    I am suprised to see so actual mounting bracket in the kit, but I guess it is not needed. I am wondering if this is something that can be purchased seperately. All I recieved was 2 bolts and the nessecary nuts and washer as the instructions say. I was thinking 4 bolts, but that would probably be an overkill. I am concerning about a couple of things before/after doing this modification.

    One is the bottom of the plate hitting or rubbing against the trailer causing damage to the paint ansd such. I do not know if something should be under the bottom edge of plate to help protect this from happening.

    The second thing, will it leak? It does not have having a rubber insert or such to protect against this. I guess the flat washer and carriage bolt head are enough. I am thinking of putting some clauking on the inside and outside to help this from not happening.

    The third thing is just lining it up even on all sides. I do not want to drill the holes, mount the plate someone say, hey it is not even on this side. Do you start with a smaller drill bit and work up to the 17/64" bit to prevent the backside of trailer from cracking?

    Also what have others used to cover or accessorize the bolt ends that are exposed?

    I know a simple call to Bushtec would probably answer most of these questions, but I want to see what others say first. I may end up calling anyways.
    02 Silver GL18 120k+
    Double Darksider #901
    Rear Michelin Alpin CT - 195/55/16
    Front Battleax 45 - 130/70/18

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  3. #2
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    It's always best to drill a pilot hole no matter what you are drilling. I've had two Busthtecs, one for over ten years never had a problem with a water leak... I just used the supplied bolts, held my plate up , marked it, and punched two holes.... No sweat.. Didn't have any problem with scuffed paint either....Rob


    The biggest difference between me and a doctor is that, a doctor washes his hands after going to the urinal........ I have to wash mine before....

  4. #3
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    I mounted with the top two bolts only. Silicone the holes and you won't have any problems. I put two bolts through the bottom of plate and license frame.
    Ran the bolts through from the back. I used small rubber feet for furniture. Drill the hole out to the size you need, then partially recess the hole out to accept the head of the bolt. Makes a nice bumper. You can get either plastic or rubber, but I thought rubber would be less apt to mar the finish if it did touch. You can get chrome nut covers at an auto parts store (Auto Zone) that dress it up real nice. Just measure three times and drill once and it will be centered. LOL!
    "Orange Streak"
    03 Candy Orange
    04 Bushtec

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    Seasoned Member zaT111's Avatar
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    Steve,
    I used masking tape to mark and align where the holes for my plate would go. I recommend that if you are going to use a surround or decorative frame for your plate you include that when marking for the holes. After I had everything lined up and marked on the outside I then pulled off the cover around the latch assembly and gently pulled the carpet back. I then drilled my holes and started my carriage bolts (bolt head on the inside of the trailer) but put a little silicone sealant as a added percaution. I then used the first set of washers and nuts as in the instructions. I then put on my plate with a decorative frame (wallyworld fake carbon fiber look) and secured with the lock nuts (has nylon insert). The bottem of the plate is 1/4" of an inch or more away from the paint and has not touched it. I then clean up the fiber glass from drilling put down a little spray adhesive and put carpet I had pulled up back in place and then put the cover back inplace over the latch system. Took maybe a half an hour or so. I ended up with maybe a thread or two of the bolt above the lock nut.
    Bret & Jen
    30 years of just "Winging" it!


    '05 Dark Gray Metallic
    '05 Bushtec Quantum "GL"
    USN veteran 1978 - 1993
    Darksider #188 - Yokohama AVID ENVigor ZPS 195/55/HR16 @ 33 PSI

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    Thirsty Member Hedo's Avatar
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    Maybe I am too simple, but I used some 'industrial' Velcro and attached mine. It has stayed snug for over 2 years without problems. I used a strip on either end, or you could use 4 strips around the perimeter for more over-kill. The plate will still pull off easily for cleaning behind it.

    Hedo
    Hedo






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    Seasoned Member SC Steve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hedo
    Maybe I am too simple, but I used some 'industrial' Velcro and attached mine. It has stayed snug for over 2 years without problems. I used a strip on either end, or you could use 4 strips around the perimeter for more over-kill. The plate will still pull off easily for cleaning behind it.

    Hedo
    Sounds like a good idea. What made you decide on velco versus the other method? Now you give me another option to think about. You know more choices is not always a good thing.


    Thanks everyone for the updates.
    02 Silver GL18 120k+
    Double Darksider #901
    Rear Michelin Alpin CT - 195/55/16
    Front Battleax 45 - 130/70/18

  8. #7
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    I got a nice chrome licence plate frame (full size plate in NY) to put on the back of my Turbo+2. I used masking tape and drilled the top two pilot holes and then enlarged them. Mounted the top two and then laid out the bottom two holes to make sure they were lined up. I wanted it solid and no flopping around.

    You have to be carefull selecting a frame if you want to go that route. Not a lot of space there. I even tapered the ends of the frame with a grinder for more relief and no.
    2003 Candy Red ABS
    Bushtec Turbo 2+2


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