Had to Mod the New Cam Chain Tension Tool

[Digger]

Just finished checking the valve lash on my bike (see signature).

The new cam chain tension tool, Honda P/N 07AMG-001A100



worked great on the left side. Had a problem on the right side, as the frame prevented me from being able to insert the tool into the cam chain tensioner release.

I made the following adjustment:



The bronze-colored knurled knob is held on the shaft by a set screw. I used a very small (about 2mm) allen wrench to loosen the set screw and move the knurled knob down the shaft a bit, as shown in the pic (before the adjustment, the knurled knob was flush with the end of the shaft). The tool worked great on both sides after that.

IHTH someone!

[Pigeon Roost]

I have the same or similar tool that I use on my right de-tensioner. I use a small flat blade screw driver and clamp on my left side. The Honda tool does tend to splip off of the de-tensioner screw a time or two during the timing mark aligments. Maybe your adjsutment would make it more secure -- or put a bit of "FunTack" on the tool's rest area.

prs

[leaddog11]

Digger,
DO you have ABS brakes. I hear it is even more tight in there with abs on the right side.

[Digger]

Lead,

As you can tell by my signature line, my bike does not have ABS brakes. And, yes, I think the presence of the ABS hardware in this area on the ABS bikes makes access more difficult.

FWIW, I had no problems with the tool jumping out of the locked position on either side. In fact, the entire valve clearance check was pretty easy. I'm glad I viewed Fred's DVDs first, though. Great confidence builder!

[Biker John]

I though there was a left and a right tool for this, I've looked in the parts book and the micro-fich and can't find them.
Guess I need to go to the dealer and bend over.
I know HDL would sell them a lot cheaper.
Will the guy's at HDL look them up for me if I call?

[TravelinLite]

Biker John, it is just one tool (07AMG-001A100). There is another piece listed in the manual that looks like a handle for the tool but I didn't need it. If you call Hal's folks they should be able to fix you up. I think their price will be between $50-60. I know I have seen them for $35 but can't find it now.

[Pigeon Roost]

Yep, the tool Digger shows will do on either side. I do both sides at same time and loosen the left tensioner with a small flat blade screw driver and then clamp it like Fred shows. I am not so sure that de-tensioning is really necessary.

prs

[LD_RIDER]

I though there was a left and a right tool for this

There was. I have it. A and B. One for left side, one for right side.

Tensioner holder A
07ZMG-MCAA300

Tensioner holder B
07ZMG-MCAA400

[TravelinLite]

There was. I have it. A and B. One for left side, one for right side.

Rob, what is the difference between the two cam chain tensioner tools that you have? I seen in the manual where a handle was listed for the tool, but just assumed it was the same tool since it worked on both sides of my engine. TIA.

[TravelinLite]

Rob, I believe it is the same tool. Just one without handle; one with.

[laj48]

I just did my valves and it was easy I have both tools but only used B. I don't have abs and didn't remove the two inner fairing pieces like Fred did. I wear xl gloves. Compared to my Yamaha YZF 1000 valve shim change (remove carbs and radiator to get cam cover off the Goldwing was a breeze.

[LD_RIDER]

Rob, I believe it is the same tool. Just one without handle; one with.

The two tools are complete exactly as you posted above: Two knurled knobs, one threaded and with a ring and string attached and the other simply a knurled knob. I have no idea if Tool A could be used where Tool B is used. I do know that tool B cannot be used where Tool A is used.

Yes, the tools are <close> but not the same. One on the left allows you to hold the tension off the cams using the ring, metal rod, and string contraption shown. One on the right you simply twist and lock. One on left is also slightly longer.

No need for any "jury rigging" when using either one. I imagine a creative owner could get either to work with some chewing gum, a little duct tape and a pair of channel locks, but the two tools are indeed different

[TravelinLite]

Thanks for the explanation. Who would have thunk it. More $$$ for honda

[75wingrider]

So with the new 07AMG-001A100 tool, if you were to grind off the excess from the top of the shaft it would make it a bit easier to squeeze in there, eh?

Just make sure before you grind that you do in fact have enough depth for the tool to work.

Or...was the shaft short enough as built?

Thanks, TIM

[Digger]

So with the new 07AMG-001A100 tool, if you were to grind off the excess from the top of the shaft it would make it a bit easier to squeeze in there, eh?

Just make sure before you grind that you do in fact have enough depth for the tool to work.

Or...was the shaft short enough as built?

Thanks, TIM

tcs,

Check the first post in this thread. The tool I used (the very same one that you referenced) worked on both sides of my engine (see signature - I'm non-ABS). For the starboard side, I had to loosen a set screw to adjust the tool shaft position....SUPER easy and no grinding needed.

IHTH!

[KJ5IX]

Check with CycleDude here on the board: He use to make one in the past that was excellently made, and not near as much cost.

[Birddoginc]

Hi Digger,

Thanks for your service to our nation.

*******************************

Where did you buy (07AMG-001a100) this tool?

Dennis

[GoldWingrGreg]

I have never used the tool to adjust the valves. Much cheaper to just remove the tensior and reset it once off. Then adjust the valves and reinstall it.

[75wingrider]

Is Greg saying...just unbolt and remove the tensioner? Is it really that simple? THANKS

[galewing]

Board, The unwind force is very lite. A simple

blade type screwdriver made from a nail

with a fuel hose pushed onto the head for a

handle (grip) works well. A (S) hook and rubber

bands to hold side pressure prevents the nail

from turning. Cost little to nothing; use once

and give it away.