How to Remove and Install front wheel
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    Seasoned Member moodygne's Avatar
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    Default How to Remove and Install front wheel

    How do you remove and Install front wheel on a 2010 1800 Goldwing. The book is confusing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moodygne View Post
    How do you remove and Install front wheel on a 2010 1800 Goldwing. The book is confusing.
    Piece of cake actually. Remove the front fender, and then the rear side pieces and the rear part of the fender. Jack the bike up from the frame and just before you get the wheel off the floor, Loosen the bottom pinch bolts. There's two on each side at the bottom front of the fork. Then remove the axle nut off the right front axle. Jack the bike up then so the wheel just clears the floor. Before you pull the axle out, remove the right brake caliper. There's two 10mm bolts that hold this unit on. Slide it then to the rear. From now on, do not squeeze the front brake lever or the footbrake. Once the caliper is back and out of the way, you can pull the axle out from the left side. A screwdriver inserted in the axle holes will help here. There will be two distance pieces ,one on each side of the wheel . Pay attention to which ones go back where. They are different from one another. The wheel should roll right out then. Reassembly is in reverse except for one detail. You will need to pry the brake shoes apart as far as they will go to be able to insert it back on the brake disc. A large dull screwdriver will do it OK.

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    Seasoned Member moodygne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W7AX View Post
    Piece of cake actually. Remove the front fender, and then the rear side pieces and the rear part of the fender. Jack the bike up from the frame and just before you get the wheel off the floor, Loosen the bottom pinch bolts. There's two on each side at the bottom front of the fork. Then remove the axle nut off the right front axle. Jack the bike up then so the wheel just clears the floor. Before you pull the axle out, remove the right brake caliper. There's two 10mm bolts that hold this unit on. Slide it then to the rear. From now on, do not squeeze the front brake lever or the footbrake. Once the caliper is back and out of the way, you can pull the axle out from the left side. A screwdriver inserted in the axle holes will help here. There will be two distance pieces ,one on each side of the wheel . Pay attention to which ones go back where. They are different from one another. The wheel should roll right out then. Reassembly is in reverse except for one detail. You will need to pry the brake shoes apart as far as they will go to be able to insert it back on the brake disc. A large dull screwdriver will do it OK.
    Is there anything about a feelers gage at .028?

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    I don't know what you would need a feeler gage for. The brakes when reinstalled will need to be exercized a couple times to bring the brake shoes up to the proper distance to the disc but that's about it really.

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    Seasoned Member 1800wannabee's Avatar
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    You don't have to remove the rear fender half. The .028" or .7mm feeler is used to check the clearance between the left brake rotor and the caliper mounting bracket. This is checked after everything is tightened up.

    There is a .7mm feeler guage in a pocket on the outside of the toolkit.
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    The reason I take the rear fender part off is so I can clean the inside crud off. You're right there anyway and I always do it. But of course, you don't have to remove it to get the wheel off.

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    Grumpy Fart hunzee's Avatar
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    Here's how you do it if you don't have a jack.
    http://www.hotsvideos.com/video/1951...nt-Wheel-Stunt



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    Pretty cool...but I bet he can't do a Goldwing the same way

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    I recently installed a new front tire on my 07. I found it interesting that the shop service manual no longer calls for the feeler gauge check on the rotor/caliper clearance as it did on my 02. I don't see any difference in the design between the 02 and the 07, but that's what the book says. I did the "fork bounce" they recommend, and everything aligned perfectly.

    Honda says that caliper bolt is "one use", and should be replaced. I've never done that, but be aware that it is recommended.

    Note carefully how the wheel spacers are installed, it can be confusing to figure that out after removal. Also, insert the spacers into the wheel before reinstalling it, because they are nearly impossible to install once the wheel is between the forks.


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    Seasoned Member Pigeon Roost's Avatar
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    If you follow the procedure in the owner's manual, the .7mm clearance between teh left edge of the rotor and right edge of the caliper MOUNT bracket WILL be OK with plenty to spare.

    Do not loosen the left side axle pinch bolts until the right side axle pinch bolts and right axle nut is already loose. Only the right side caliper need be removed. On re-assembly, the right axle bolt is torqued to spec, then the right pinch bolts. Before tightening the left pinch bolts, hold the brake lever firmly and bounce the front end upon the axle several times to make sure it is relaxed in tis centered position. Other than the bit about taking the left caliper off, I think the owner's manual directions (IF YOU HAVE A FLAT TIRE) are quite good in this case.

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    Last edited by Pigeon Roost; 05-22-2010 at 08:56 PM.
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    The 2010 doesn't call for the feeler guage deal either. The reason why they recommend changing the caliper bolts is because all steel bolts that are used in critical situations will stretch a bit if torqued as they call for. Sometimes it's not safe to torque them twice because of the chance of metal fatigue. I have to admit ,I never change them either but they realistically should be replaced. There are a number of bolts on aircraft that they demand changing if removed. I always did because things on an airplane are very difficult to deal with if they break when airborne

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    Seasoned Member Red Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pigeon Roost View Post
    If you follow the procedure in the owner's manual, the .7mm clearance between teh left edge of the rotor and right edge of the caliper MOUNT bracket WILL be OK with plenty to spare.

    Do not loosen the left side axle pinch bolts until the right side axle pinch bolts and right axle nut is already loose. Only the right side caliper need be removed. On re-assembly, the left axle bolt is torqued to spec, then the left pinch bolts. Before tightening the right pinch bolts, hold the brake lever firmly and bounce the front end upon the axle several times to make sure it is relaxed in tis centered position. Other than the bit about taking the left caliper off, I think the owner's manual directions (IF YOU HAVE A FLAT TIRE) are quite good in this case.

    prs
    I thought it was the right pinch bolts and then the left on reassembly
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    Seasoned Member GatorWing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W7AX View Post
    The 2010 doesn't call for the feeler guage deal either. The reason why they recommend changing the caliper bolts is because all steel bolts that are used in critical situations will stretch a bit if torqued as they call for. Sometimes it's not safe to torque them twice because of the chance of metal fatigue. I have to admit ,I never change them either but they realistically should be replaced. There are a number of bolts on aircraft that they demand changing if removed. I always did because things on an airplane are very difficult to deal with if they break when airborne
    Any bolt can be accurately measured for length when new. Any measured used bolt found longer than when it was when new should be considered non-reusable or junk (it has yielded during clamping).
    Also any torque to yield type always stretch (yield) and are single use bolts. I don't think Honda uses them as they usually call for some degree of rotation after reaching a set torque.
    The only test is measuring them.
    I think Honda OEM caliper bolts are specified to be replaced due to the coating Honda puts on the threads to keep them from loosening with vibration.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Ron View Post
    I thought it was the right pinch bolts and then the left on reassembly

    Good catch, I got my rights and lefts a bit muddled. I edited to avoid further confusion.

    prs
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    I would use NEW brake caliper bolts, or at least use a torque wrench and be certain that they reach the correct torque setting as you tighten them. I have had those bolts stretch and crack on two occasions.

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    Moodygne -

    I believe the feeler gauge you mention (.028" or .7mm) - located in the vinyl of the Honda supplied tool kit to your bike - is for measuring the gap between the brake disc and the fixed caliper housing (where the brake disc rotates thru). From my experience, the inward sides have been fine, but the outbound sides have always been close. I have a 2007 and the manual indicates that you need that "space".

    I think Fred Harmon wrote that the updated manual on the newer bike models no longer mention the .7mm gap. So I don't know if it is very important to ensure that the gap is maintained (being as it is no longer required per the manual).

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    I would be glad to stop by and we can take it off and put it back on. Then later you can pull it when your ready for a tire. Once you see it then it's a piece of cake. I am tied up Monday and Tuesday but can help after that. My # is on the contact list.

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    Seasoned Member KJ5IX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W7AX View Post
    The 2010 doesn't call for the feeler guage deal either. The reason why they recommend changing the caliper bolts is because all steel bolts that are used in critical situations will stretch a bit if torqued as they call for. Sometimes it's not safe to torque them twice because of the chance of metal fatigue. I have to admit ,I never change them either but they realistically should be replaced. There are a number of bolts on aircraft that they demand changing if removed. I always did because things on an airplane are very difficult to deal with if they break when airborne
    Quite true, but I think the big reason that the manual calls for replacement is that a New bolt has Red Lock-tite pre installed on the threads, and most do-it-yourselfers don't have lock-tite on hand or expect the remnants of what is there ( because you can see it ) will suffice,, I know I have on mine, but on someone else' I use plenty of RED !
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    Seasoned Member GatorWing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KJ5IX View Post
    Quite true, but I think the big reason that the manual calls for replacement is that a New bolt has Red Lock-tite pre installed on the threads, and most do-it-yourselfers don't have lock-tite on hand or expect the remnants of what is there ( because you can see it ) will suffice,, I know I have on mine, but on someone else' I use plenty of RED !
    I really don't think the Red coating is a Loctite type product . It is a coating that resists a bolt from loosening from vibration. It may be a locker from Asia that is similar to a medium strength Blue anaerobic thread locker.
    Fred H. once posted that it may be "Vibra-Tite" or similar. That is a non-anaerobic and won't damage threads in the aluminum when bolts are removed. The Red Loctite is a high strength grade that usually requires heat to remove. Without heat, damage to the aluminum threads might occur.
    The strongest coating I would use would be medium strength Blue anaerobic. No heat required, just normal hand tools to remove .


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    Seasoned Member 100MPG's Avatar
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    Anyone know the spec's for the front axle bolt, the pinch bolts, and the caliper mounting bolts?
    Let me see if I have this in order. The left side pinch bolts get tightened first, then torque the axle, then torque the right side pinch bolts, then torque left side ...
    Just installed my Centramatics on the front (only) and waiting to get the wheel back on.

    Found them, just looked in the wrong place first.
    AXLE 43
    PINCH 16
    Caliper 23
    Last edited by 100MPG; 06-07-2010 at 05:23 PM.

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    Seasoned Member moodygne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100MPG View Post
    Anyone know the spec's for the front axle bolt, the pinch bolts, and the caliper mounting bolts?
    Let me see if I have this in order. The left side pinch bolts get tightened first, then torque the axle, then torque the right side pinch bolts, then torque left side ...
    Just installed my Centramatics on the front (only) and waiting to get the wheel back on.

    Found them, just looked in the wrong place first.
    AXLE 43
    PINCH 16
    Caliper 23
    44 ft lb axle bolt, 16 ft lb pinch bolts, 23ft lb Caliper mounting bolts.

    2010 Goldwing.

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