U-Joint on drive shaft
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    Default U-Joint on drive shaft

    Has anyone replaced just the u-joint on driveshaft or did you replace whole shaft with u-joint already installed.????? If you replaced just the joint,,,, what was the part number...... Just asking,, thanks,,, Bob

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    Seasoned Member Waldo's Avatar
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    They are not available separately. Only the entire drive shaft. Before '06 and after '05 have different numbers. Make sure you are getting one from the year of your bike if you get a trike take off. I have a post '06 that I will sell very cheap + shipping since I cannot use it.

    Drive Shafts

    The drive shaft part numbers for a GL1800 2001 through 2005 are;

    40200-MCA-000
    40200-MCA-010

    Drive shaft length for the GL1800 2001 through 2005 is;

    49cm or 19 5/16 inches.

    The drive shaft part numbers for a GL1800 2006 through 2008 is;
    40200-MCA-A60

    Drive shaft length for the GL1800 2006 through 2008 is;

    51.5cm or 20 1/4 inches.
    KD8OVH
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    Thanks for reply Waldo... mine is 02 and takes the 40200-mca-010... I was just wondering if anyone had a machine shop replace just the joint.... How much for you shaft??????? thanks Bob

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    Seasoned Member Larry Price's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hyre View Post
    Thanks for reply Waldo... mine is 02 and takes the 40200-mca-010... I was just wondering if anyone had a machine shop replace just the joint.... How much for you shaft??????? thanks Bob
    Bob, his post 06 drive shaft will not fit your 02... You may have a hard time finding pre 05 shaft with low miles.. I didn't even try, I just ordered one from Honda Direct Line... might want to wait for the next sale and get at least 10% off... more off I think if you join the buyer club...
    Larry Price
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    I run Hybrid Tires....
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    Seasoned Member Larry Price's Avatar
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    I have posted this many times........


    Final drives are all the same... this 08 fit my 02 just fine... you can see the brake hose clamp that was already mentioned. I left the 08 brake hose holder on since I'm looking for the longer 08 brake hoses.


    What is different is the drive shafts......
    The drive shaft part numbers for a GL1800 2001 through 2005 are;

    40200-MCA-000
    40200-MCA-010

    Drive shaft length for the GL1800 2001 through 2005 is;

    49cm or 19 5/16 inches.

    The drive shaft part numbers for a GL1800 2006 through 2008 is;
    40200-MCA-A60

    Drive shaft length for the GL1800 2006 through 2008 is;

    51.5cm or 20 1/4 inches.

    In this photo the top drive line is from a 2008 GL1800 that was triked.
    The bottom drive line is the one I ordered from HDL for my 2002.
    These drive lines are identical until you get past the u-joint.



    I might also mention that there seems to be a difference in swing arms as well. But I have not been able to figure out why yet. I've not had to remove my 02 swing arm. I suspect it has more to do with the engine then anything else.
    2001 Swing Arm is Part Number 52100-MCA-000
    2002 & 2003 Swing Arm Part Number is 52100-MCA-780
    2004 through 2008 Swing Arm Part Number is 52100-MCA-A20

    And this....

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Pigeon Roost
    Thanks everybody. Larry, in regard to your photo of the two drive shafts, specifically the longer sleeve on the newer everion; did you notice if the drive splines inside that longer shaft were cut end to end. That is, would it be as simple as having the extra length cut off of the newer version? prs

    I never checked before, so I dug them out of the box and took a look. From this photo you can see that the splines are recessed a bit, a little over 1/8th of an inch.


    In the following photo take note of the dark sections on each drive line. That is the discoloration from machining the splines and marks the location of the splines. Notice the top drive line from my 02 Wing. The spline section is very short. The lower drive line is from an 08 Wing. While there is more spline, it is mostly in the section that would have to be cut off to match an early Wing. It appears you would wind up with about 1/3 less spline length then an early model wing. So in my opinion it would not be a wise thing to try....



    I also measured the long portions of the two drive lines, something I didn't take note of before. There is a 1/8th inch difference between the two. The 02 drive line long section is 15 5/16th inches. The 08 drive line long section is 15 3/16ths inches. Probably doesn't mean much, but it was something that I noticed this time around.

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by oldturtle
    Re price, I bought brand new 08 rear end with brake disc at buy it now price of $200 plus shipping of $40. Some have picked them up for less. Seems like the drive shaft has few reported failures compared to rear end so may not be worth while to stock up on drive shaft until you actually need one if ever. Might be better idea to pull original drive shaft and inspect/lube splines rather than buying a spare.

    True, most folks are replacing the final drive as a preventive measure. It just makes sense to do both while you're in there. There are many points of failure concerning the the Wing drive shaft. The obvious and most often part is the U-joint. However, failures have also occurred within the long portion of the drive shaft. It is a tube within a tube bound together with a rubber sleeve most of its length. The splines themselves can also fail. The big plus for late model wing owners is they can score the final drive and drive shaft and do both with little outlay in cash. Those of us with the older model wings using the shorter shaft don't get to use those drive shafts.
    Larry Price
    Edgewood, WA

    I run Hybrid Tires....
    Front: Bridgestone Exedra G709 130/70R-18
    Rear: Michelin Primacy Alpin PA3 ZP 195/55R-16

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    Bob I am replacing my final drive and drive shaft tomorrow. I bought a 2009 drive shaft, after I pull the old drive shaft I am going to take them both to a drive line shop and have the nose piece from my 2003 put onto the 2009 drive shaft with the new u-joint. I'll try to update you as the job progresses.
    RogerB
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    Ex-Darksider

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    Final drives are all the same... this 08 fit my 02 just fine...
    There is one difference. The later models have a weep hole in the bottom that the early ones didn't have but they will interchange.
    2001 GL1800A Interceptor/illusion red
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    Seasoned Member Ed Kruse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Price View Post
    Bob, his post 06 drive shaft will not fit your 02... You may have a hard time finding pre 05 shaft with low miles.. I didn't even try, I just ordered one from Honda Direct Line... might want to wait for the next sale and get at least 10% off... more off I think if you join the buyer club...

    I just installed a used shaft with about 20,000 miles on my '02. I bought it from JR Harris Trikes in Inverness, FL for $60 shipped to my house. It's worth a try to check around. A new one is around $300. if I remember right.
    Ed Kruse (aka Speed Nut)
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    Seasoned Member Waldo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerB View Post
    Bob I am replacing my final drive and drive shaft tomorrow. I bought a 2009 drive shaft, after I pull the old drive shaft I am going to take them both to a drive line shop and have the nose piece from my 2003 put onto the 2009 drive shaft with the new u-joint. I'll try to update you as the job progresses.
    RogerB
    I will be watching your progress very closely. Give us as many details as you can. I looked and it does not look too easy.

    I had to change the rear universal on my Avalanche and it was a holy bear to do. Could not figure out how to get the original out because there were no clips (yeah, first time since I was a young pup I needed to change a universal). Anyway, a little research on the web netted me the information that the new u-jounts are held in by PLASTIC! There is the groove for the clip on the yolk and also a groove on the bearing caps which are flush. What ya do is apply heat. Once "operating" temp is reached, the plastic will come out a little hole in the yolk like one of those 4th of July snake pills that you light making a black snake. Once done, the caps come out NOT so easy. They are longer than caps that take the clips. I actually had to cut one of the crosses off to remove it because vice grips would not lock onto it to pull it out.
    KD8OVH
    '06 GL1800 Black Stealth F-117
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    Yes, Waldo... the plastic u joints have been our for years.... apply heat and they squirt out like a snake........ I will be curious how Rogers outcome will work out also............

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    Is it just me or does the frot shaft look like the joint caps are slightly larger than the shaft caps behind it??



    I can't see a shop swapping out the nose yokes due to them being peened in.But a good Driveline shop can build just about anything,I've seen them build us some trick shafts for the race cars.

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    Seasoned Member Larry Price's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
    Is it just me or does the front shaft look like the joint caps are slightly larger than the shaft caps behind it??



    I can't see a shop swapping out the nose yokes due to them being peened in.But a good Driveline shop can build just about anything,I've seen them build us some trick shafts for the race cars.
    I just checked them, they are the same... must be an optical delusion....
    Larry Price
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    I run Hybrid Tires....
    Front: Bridgestone Exedra G709 130/70R-18
    Rear: Michelin Primacy Alpin PA3 ZP 195/55R-16

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    Got held up by work today, so I will try to pull the final drive tomorrow.
    Do I have to pull the right saddlebag completely off or can I leave the opener cable and electrical hooked up and just move it out of the way? That is what I did per Fred's videos for pulling the rear shock.
    Thanks,
    RogerB
    2003 non-ABS
    Ex-Darksider

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    I just had the final drive on mine replaced at 178k as a safety measure. It was working fine.

    The tech, who I trust, inspected the u-joint and driveshaft and said it was fine. Dodged that bullet. He said they were between 3-4 hundred dollars.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerB View Post
    Got held up by work today, so I will try to pull the final drive tomorrow.
    Do I have to pull the right saddlebag completely off or can I leave the opener cable and electrical hooked up and just move it out of the way? That is what I did per Fred's videos for pulling the rear shock.
    Thanks,
    RogerB
    Roger.You only have to remove the right muffler (bolt under right bag,and just loosen the 2 muffler clamp bolts)
    DO NOT loosen or take the right saddle bags off! It's not needed to swap the drive.

    After the muffler is out of the way.
    You will be able to get at the 2 8mm head bolts that hold the brake hose clamp to the drive,The clamp also holds the ABS sensor.

    Then take off the caliper bracket.
    Rotor screws.
    Then the four drive bolts.
    Then slide the drive off.

    You can then pull the driveshaft.

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