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    Seasoned Member Mongo Jerry's Avatar
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    Question TIRE PRESSURES... for the GL1800

    I do not recall when and where I saw this, but I think I saw it in this forum somewhere were the optimum tire pressure was talked about for the GL1800.

    Now the manual says…if I am correct, ( 36 Front ) & ( 41 Rear ) as I recall. However I have been playing with the pressures some and found that 45 in the rear and 42 in the front seems to be the best…or at least that’s how it feels when I ride.

    Now somewhere I was reading that many, it seems are going with 42 front and rear as I recall. I have Dunflops on my GL1800, worst tires I have ever had the displeasure of ever having on a bike in my life. All my other bikes I owned had Bridge Stone tires and I loved them. Now my dunflops are cupped so bad, and that’s using the stated so called proper pressures. That I will soon be replacing these with Bridgestones.

    I would like to get some input on what pressure in the tires is best for the GL1800, both in gas mileage, handling and best over all tire life as well. I have just a little over 12,000 Km’s ( 7,500 miles ) on the dunflops, and that are bagged already. And that at the recommended tires pressures…!



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    Seasoned Member Wild Turkey's Avatar
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    Its different for every individual tire that you use. I do like about 41 in front and about 44 in rear if i have motorcycle tires on. If i have a CT i like about 36 in rear. There is no optimum pressure. I believe for it to be on the high side is better than the lower. I will tell you that putting Nitrogen in your mc tires is not worth it, but it is for the ct. It seems the ct from my experience holds the pressure better, even on a mc tire rim than a mt on a mt rim. my 2 cents.

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    Seasoned Member Mongo Jerry's Avatar
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    So may I ask when you use a MT, what brand do you use and what do you find to be the best over all pressure for it...?

    Myself, I like to keep a tire about 2 PSI over as thats better then low. Low pressure just adds more wear, and the tire runs hotter and the odds of a tire failure....at least in my books is higher on a low tire then one thats at pressure or a little over.

    I am just trying to find the idea state for things as the GL1800 is NEW and I am new to riding a 1,000 pound monster like this. Owned this one for just about 3 months now, and have a little over 12,000 Km's ( 7,500 Miles ) on it already.....gee can you tell I ride....just a little....


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    Seasoned Member Joe In Calif's Avatar
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    When I ran bridgestones 709 & 702 I ran 38 in front and 41 in rear tire. Worked great . You will find suggestions from 36 to 42 front and 38 to 45 rear. Kind of like asking what oil is best. Oh no, did I really say that???
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    Seasoned Member Mongo Jerry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe In Calif View Post
    When I ran bridgestones 709 & 702 I ran 38 in front and 41 in rear tire. Worked great . You will find suggestions from 36 to 42 front and 38 to 45 rear. Kind of like asking what oil is best. Oh no, did I really say that???
    We all know the answer to that....its....AMSOIL......

    Sorry just had to do it....you walked right into that one.....

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    Seasoned Member Mongo Jerry's Avatar
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    I know that when I had my VT750 Honda Shadow, the tire pressure was given two ways. One was like 200 pounds weight or under then it was…for example 35 pounds, but at over 200 pounds…otherwise put riding 2 up…then its was higher tire pressure like 5 PSI more.

    I see that with the GL1800 they do not have this, at least not that I have seen in the manual…unless miss it.

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    Default Tires

    Try a car tire on the rear and a rear cycle on the front. The additional milage will amaze you, and they handle great.

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    Seasoned Member TXREALTOR's Avatar
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    Try riding it with the 10% rule. 10% increase in pressure from cold to hot. 38 and 41 seem to work with Stones. A lot odd things like temps, altitude, and speed will make a difference. The 36 front 40 rear seems a bit low for the front. The front heats up too much and increases the pressure too much.

    It is a rule of thumb and not an absolute, so go with something and stay with it.
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    Chromeaphobe laen's Avatar
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    CTs handle poorly. They need more effort to turn in corners. Many here like them. They do last longer and are less likely to have a flat.And cost less. So they have advantages. You decide.

    Note NO serious riders, racers etc... use a car tire on a performance bike(racing)

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    Seasoned Member Wingjammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laen View Post
    CTs handle poorly. They need more effort to turn in corners. Many here like them. They do last longer and are less likely to have a flat.And cost less. So they have advantages. You decide.

    Note NO serious riders, racers etc... use a car tire on a performance bike(racing)




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    Quote Originally Posted by laen View Post
    CTs handle poorly. They need more effort to turn in corners. Many here like them. They do last longer and are less likely to have a flat.And cost less. So they have advantages. You decide.

    Note NO serious riders, racers etc... use a car tire on a performance bike(racing)

    HUH?? You just guessing or what? A car tire on the GL1800 will run circles over a MT. Anyday! Everyday! Have you had one on your bike that you didn't like or are you just blowing smoke? I don't know one person that has traded for a RF car tire that would ever go back! They are just that good!!!

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    Default tires

    I have been running car tires for years and they are the best. Don't know the difference in a curve, can't tell any difference. Only noticeable difference is how long they last and how much less they cost and how much better they ride for me.

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    I have a new 2010 Wing with 1900 miles on it and I was told by the Service manager at the dealership to do 40psi in front and back. He rides a lot of miles on his Wing. I put 40 front and back and rode for a few hours in Yellowstone the other day and they felt fine. Not sure if altitude has anything to do with it or not. I am getting 45-47 mpg.

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    Seasoned Member DJ Fire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    Try riding it with the 10% rule. 10% increase in pressure from cold to hot. 38 and 41 seem to work with Stones. A lot odd things like temps, altitude, and speed will make a difference. The 36 front 40 rear seems a bit low for the front. The front heats up too much and increases the pressure too much.

    It is a rule of thumb and not an absolute, so go with something and stay with it.
    ummm.. seems like bad rule to me.

    I have never seen a front tire with a larger temp shift than the rear tire.

    I believe your 10% is off sir. Rule of thumb is 1 psi per 10 degrees of temp. A tire at 40 psi and 70 degrees should be at 43 psi at 100 degrees. Also, a tire that was 40 psi at 70 should be 37 psi at 40 degrees. The numbers work both ways.

    The rear tire runs around 156 degrees on a wing that's being ridden on the super-slab. That is a 8.6 psi gain over the cold inflation. The front tire should be in the 120's which is a 5.x psi gain over cold inflation.

    Twisties will get the rear much hotter if engine braking is being used or a lot of rear brake. 189 degrees is the hottest I have seen my rear tire. That is almost a 12 psi shift from cold inflation. Cold inflation at 42 + 12 = 54 psi. hmmmmm

    Hope that helps on the tire pressure. Keep in mind that US mileage numbers are kinda useless as US road construction differs from Canadian. It has been my experience that Canadian roads can be much tougher on the tires.

    I get 19,xxx miles out of my front tire consistently
    I get 12 - 15,xxx miles out of my non-matched rear tire.

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    Seasoned Member TXREALTOR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Fire View Post
    ummm.. seems like bad rule to me.

    I have never seen a front tire with a larger temp shift than the rear tire.

    I believe your 10% is off sir. Rule of thumb is 1 psi per 10 degrees of temp. A tire at 40 psi and 70 degrees should be at 43 psi at 100 degrees. Also, a tire that was 40 psi at 70 should be 37 psi at 40 degrees. The numbers work both ways.

    The rear tire runs around 156 degrees on a wing that's being ridden on the super-slab. That is a 8.6 psi gain over the cold inflation. The front tire should be in the 120's which is a 5.x psi gain over cold inflation.

    Twisties will get the rear much hotter if engine braking is being used or a lot of rear brake. 189 degrees is the hottest I have seen my rear tire. That is almost a 12 psi shift from cold inflation. Cold inflation at 42 + 12 = 54 psi. hmmmmm

    Hope that helps on the tire pressure. Keep in mind that US mileage numbers are kinda useless as US road construction differs from Canadian. It has been my experience that Canadian roads can be much tougher on the tires.

    I get 19,xxx miles out of my front tire consistently
    I get 12 - 15,xxx miles out of my non-matched rear tire.

    Sorry you haven't had the same results. Ever tried it?
    Typical of the GL 1800 board. You are either ignorant of, or just don't like the answer so it has to be rubbish.

    Many folks have used that or similar equasion for longer than either of us has been alive and it has and still works. Works on the cars too. You have to wrap your mind around something besides temp. Do you know how to make a tire run cooler? I do, at least to a point.

    You don't have to use it. You don't have to believe in it, just don't discount it so quickly, you may still actually have some things to learn.

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    Seasoned Member FUSE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharkwl View Post
    HUH?? You just guessing or what? A car tire on the GL1800 will run circles over a MT. Anyday! Everyday! Have you had one on your bike that you didn't like or are you just blowing smoke? I don't know one person that has traded for a RF car tire that would ever go back! They are just that good!!!
    Well now you do. I didn't like the CT one bit and switched back. Just saying. You all can ride what you want, I'll ride what I want. I don't feel it will run circles over a MT. Both types will let the Wing run to it's max without even coming close to the max performance of the tire.

    IMO, the wing is too much of a pig to say those kinds of statements. I will say that for some folks the CT can perform just fine on the wing. But you won't see a CT on a sport bike any time soon because they are not a superior performing tire on motorcycles. On a wing a CT performs as good as a MT in some peoples minds. In my mind it was a scary experience that I could not get used to and never felt safe. From the sidelines they both seem to perform the same. One does not seem to perform any better than the other, they will both get you to max speed and lean.
    Last edited by FUSE; 08-01-2011 at 09:54 AM.
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    Seasoned Member rmcapozzi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mongo Jerry View Post
    I know that when I had my VT750 Honda Shadow, the tire pressure was given two ways. One was like 200 pounds weight or under then it was…for example 35 pounds, but at over 200 pounds…otherwise put riding 2 up…then its was higher tire pressure like 5 PSI more.

    I see that with the GL1800 they do not have this, at least not that I have seen in the manual…unless miss it.
    That is likely because the suggested PSI for the rear tire from both Honda and the tire manufacturer's is already at the MAX cold PSI stamped on the rear tire's sidewall. No room for them to suggest using more pressure for more wieght.
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    Seasoned Member FUSE's Avatar
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    And to add a comment for the OP.

    I run the recommended pressures. 38 front 41 rear. I check daily, try to keep them within .5 of those pressures. I'm very happy with the performance and wear of the tires.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    You have to wrap your mind around something besides temp. Do you know how to make a tire run cooler? I do, at least to a point.
    Then enlighten me.

    I thought this was about the correct pressures to run, not temp control.

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    Well, here we go again... A gentleman asks about tire pressures and now we got yet another pi$$ing contest. Some of you guys need to take your meds.

    Oh yes to the OP... if those pressures seem good to you, by all means, run them. It's what everyone else does.


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    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    Try riding it with the 10% rule. 10% increase in pressure from cold to hot. 38 and 41 seem to work with Stones. A lot odd things like temps, altitude, and speed will make a difference. The 36 front 40 rear seems a bit low for the front. The front heats up too much and increases the pressure too much.

    It is a rule of thumb and not an absolute, so go with something and stay with it.
    It's a good rule. Remember, 10% is a fairly large increase when you consider racers will make adjustments of just a pound or even fraction to optimize grip and performance. My personal opinion is that I can feel a drop off in grip when I tried the front pressure at 40 or above. The tradeoff for only possibly increasing durability and reduced cupping is not worth that tradeoff for me. But clearly opinions vary.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLOWDOG View Post
    It's a good rule. Remember, 10% is a fairly large increase when you consider racers will make adjustments of just a pound or even fraction to optimize grip and performance.
    Let's presume I know nothing about tire pressure like most wingers... explain to me how the 10% rule works.

    I want to make sure I understand what you are trying to say because a 10% increase from cold to hot is wrong according to my information so I must not be fully understanding somehing.

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    Seasoned Member TXREALTOR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Fire View Post
    Let's presume I know nothing about tire pressure like most wingers... explain to me how the 10% rule works.

    I want to make sure I understand what you are trying to say because a 10% increase from cold to hot is wrong according to my information so I must not be fully understanding somehing.

    It is a 10% increase in pressure from cold to hot. I think you are closer to the thing than you realize.

    Say you start with 40 PSI in a given tire. Said tire needs to get to an operating temp. I think we agree so far. So after about 15 or 20 miles you check the tire and it goes to 48 PSI, that would be 20%. Theoretically it is underinflated. Put a pound or two at a time in to get to the point it goes up 4-5 pounds. It is a rule of "thumb" not carved in stone.

    This will help keep the said tire at the optimum operating type temp and therefore reduce overheating and the chance of damage.

    Now, a couple of things we must remember. Do not exeed the max cold tire inflation. Remember, weight, speed, road temps and a few other things that we have no control over will throw it off a little. Ambient temps will change the pressure you should start with too. You touched on that. If said tire is optimum at 40 PSI at 65 degrees, then at 105 degrees, it may need to start out at 44PSI. Remember not to exeed the max pressure for cold.

    This is a ballpark, and isn't rocket science as people seem to be kind of simple creatures, and we are usually more worried about other things. It is a good starting point that actually is close and easy to remember and calculate.

    I am happy you get the life out of your rubber you claim. We all know that tire life is almost as subjective as which marshmallow tastes the best, but we all like what we run and that is why we patronize that brand.

    Ride safe and Best wishes.
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    Seasoned Member DJ Fire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    It is a 10% increase in pressure from cold to hot. I think you are closer to the thing than you realize.
    But 10% is not a realistic number.
    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    Say you start with 40 PSI in a given tire. Said tire needs to get to an operating temp. I think we agree so far. So after about 15 or 20 miles you check the tire and it goes to 48 PSI, that would be 20%. Theoretically it is underinflated.
    40 to 48 is 8 psi = 80 degree hotter than cold thus 150 degrees.

    How are you coming up with an under inflated tire?
    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    Put a pound or two at a time in to get to the point it goes up 4-5 pounds. It is a rule of "thumb" not carved in stone.
    I do not see how this is possible since the cold temp vs normal temp is outside your 10%. A 4 to 5 psi shift would only equate to a 40 to 50 degree shift in temp from cold to hot and that is not realistic unless you are doing short rides or perhaps running some errands?

    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    This will help keep the said tire at the optimum operating type temp and therefore reduce overheating and the chance of damage.
    The less pressure, the larger the contact patch, the more friction, the higher the heat. Please explain how a tire at max cold inflation could run hotter than a tire at 4 psi under cold inflation max.

    I understand what you are saying but the math is not adding up.

    ???

    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    Now, a couple of things we must remember. Do not exeed the max cold tire inflation. Remember, weight, speed, road temps and a few other things that we have no control over will throw it off a little.
    Certain brands are actually instructing end users to do that very thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    Ambient temps will change the pressure you should start with too. You touched on that. If said tire is optimum at 40 PSI at 65 degrees, then at 105 degrees, it may need to start out at 44PSI. Remember not to exeed the max pressure for cold.
    Not really. If it's 105 degrees before your first ride of the day, then you are no longer dealing with a cold tire, but a "pre-heated" tire, if you will. 40 psi cold at 70 = 43.5 psi pre-heated at 105 degrees.

    Your thoughts?

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    Seasoned Member TXREALTOR's Avatar
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    My thoughts are,,,,,,,,,,,,, You don't like the answer, therefore you feel the need to discredit it. You did ask.

    No one said you had to use this method. No one said it was better than any other. I just told the OP what I use, like he asked. Since you are so hung up on temps I would ask what you like to have your tires when riding. BTW, the only way temps come in to play on this is it makes the tire pressure increase. Nothing else, really.

    You are way overthinking it. Go ahead, it is fine and what ever you are doing is working for you. There is no need to discredit someone or call them out if you don't understand or just don't like the way they do it though.

    Best wishes.
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    Seasoned Member DJ Fire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    My thoughts are,,,,,,,,,,,,, You don't like the answer, therefore you feel the need to discredit it. You did ask.
    That's just it... if the numbers do not add up, then I can't understand why anybody would use it. It does not make sense to me. That's just does not compute.
    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    Since you are so hung up on temps I would ask what you like to have your tires when riding. BTW, the only way temps come in to play on this is it makes the tire pressure increase. Nothing else, really.
    Most riders are clueless on just how hot their tires get, thus many end up letting air out after checking the pressure while the tire is still warm or hot. Temp works both up and down. The guy who does not know about the temp checks his tires on a cold morning and bumps it up to his normal pressure not realizing that he just over inflated his tire.

    I run 42 front and 43 to 45 rear depending on load - I also run a mis-matched set of tires.
    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    You are way overthinking it. Go ahead, it is fine and what ever you are doing is working for you. There is no need to discredit someone or call them out if you don't understand or just don't like the way they do it though.
    Not trying to call anyone out. I am trying to understand the system you use. Don't get upset with me because you are using a system that can not hold up to inspection and is proven to be a flawed system.

    I am still trying to understand but it's difficult if you just shut down the discussion. I am not trying to make anybody look bad or whatever. I am just trying to see the logic in the system you choose to use.

    I don't care if you like dunlops or avons.. it's your bike, run what you want. That is the same thing. I don't care if you use a different system to keep tabs on your tire pressure but I was raised to ask questions when presented with something that I did not understand. That is what I have done here.

    I took the time to break your entire post down and respond point by point with requests on each for you to explain further. You refuse to do this and clam up by saying the problem is me. I just don't like your system so I am trying to do this or that. Is it possible that you don't want to hear the truth? NASA wouldn't do something if the numbers did not add up because lives are on the line... well guess what, they are on the line here too.

    Don't put words in my mouth.

    Last I checked this forum existed to encourage the sharing of ideas. I come here with an open mind and am asking you to explain something to me and you either refuse or can't.
    Last edited by DJ Fire; 08-01-2011 at 11:27 PM.

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  29. #28
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    Is the tire pressure really that difficult, or are some of you guys engineers? If so I can understand why you make it so complicated!

    BTW I run about 32 in the rear and about 38 in the front cold!
    And the commoners were more than satisfied to have their environmental and social rules created by an esteemed, highly educated person hence helmet laws where mostly commoners reside

  30. #29
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    I'm on my second stone @ 42 front and it wears even and no cupping. HOWEVER, I also change the crush washer everytime I change oil. I gap new plugs even though they come pregapped! I am just about to crash and burn because of my CT. Even the sticker I have won't protect me. I guess Darth will let me down as L**n is stronger than him!
    My arms are huge because I have to manhandle the bars to do my turns. AND I can't race it, seems as NO one would race or go fast on such a configuration........................oh well
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharkwl View Post
    HUH?? You just guessing or what? A car tire on the GL1800 will run circles over a MT. Anyday! Everyday! Have you had one on your bike that you didn't like or are you just blowing smoke? I don't know one person that has traded for a RF car tire that would ever go back! They are just that good!!!

    I know one person that did, I think his name is Charlie Brown, or Kit or trouble maker or something like that.

    I am not worried about cost, nor crashing and burning, nor a tire blowing out, cause I check them. And I change them way before they are worn out.

    I have learned, much of what one hears is just that, what one hears. Someone posts up a photo of a bad tire.......what is the story behind that bad tire, is the whole truth and nothing but the truth posted..........eh??

    I am sitting here dreading the day, looking at my work boots, some have steel toes(I hate them) some doe not, it is going to be 102 degrees before the heat index, and I have to go bust up a concrete floor to find a leak. I have decided to wear tennis shoes, a t shirt and hook up a garden hose and every 20 minutes soak myself down. I will survive it.

    Same with a tire, I will survive it, with common sense.

    I put An Avon back on my bike after enduring the religion for 7 years. Then I really messed up, I installed Centramatics on the bike also, it took a whole roll of tape to hold my smile down.

    Go out and put a Traxxion suspension on a bike, set it up perfectly, and ruin the performance of the ride with a CT............I never learned to play the fiddle either, just fiddle around a lot.............

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