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    Contributing Member trucker's Avatar
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    Default What kind of oil do you use in your Goldwing

    What kind of oil do you use in your Goldwing?
    I am asking because the guy I bought my 2009 GW from was using Shell Rotella T oil.
    After reading what is on the label of the Rotella T I do not think that was the best oil to use.
    It is time to change the oil and I would like to know what kind to buy.
    I am not totally sold on the synthetics.
    Thanks for any input you may give me.

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    You are fine using the Rotella T in your Goldwing. Lots and lots of riders use that oil and get lots and lots of miles out of their bikes. Most use the Rotella T6 in their bikes which is what I have in mine right now.

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    A search on oil will render you thousands of posts from many many members
    For my $.02.
    The owners manual tells you what weight to use for the time of year and what specs it should have.
    The only difference for me is, I use synthetic. At this time it is Mobile 1.

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    Trucker, I was like you as a newby back in 2006 when I got back into motorcycling on what kind/best oil to put in. We want the right and best right? A lot use the Rotella T you mentioned.
    I used Amsoil 10w40 Full Syn a few years but the past 2 years or so have been using Mobile 1 Racing 4T 10w40 Motorcycle Oil Full Syn.
    The main thing is to keep it changed. I never go more than 5K miles.
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    I just use the Honda oil. First the 10/30 dino and now the full synthetic 10/30.

    I think it's probably safe to use the weight and grade oil that the manufacturer recommends, and buying Honda oil online from HDL or WingStuff is pretty simple.
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    WHAT WE DO BEFORE ALL THIS STUFF HIT MARKET LOL KEEP IT CHANGED # 1 I USE ROT 6 SYN USED TO USE AMSOIL ALL THE TIME THIS SEEMS TO WORK BETTER (SHIFTING ETC ) IMOP AS FAR AS SYN GOES TRY THE OLD STOVE TOP FRYING PAN TEST SEE WHICH BURNS N SMOKES FASTER NO LOTS THAT JUST CHANGE FILTER IN BETWEEN CAUSE SYN DOESNT BRAKE DONE LIKE REG GOD LUCK N GOOD RIDE

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    I use Schaffers simi synthetic 20-50 racing oil. I use there products it in my cars, truck and tractors. They also make a great grease. When we take our annual MC trip of 10 to 11,00 miles, I don't worry about changing oil. As hard as they run race cars and the heat of those engines, this oil doesn't break down. I have complete confedence in there product.



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    I'm an Amsoil oil and filter guy!
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    Mobile 1 syn. 10w40 in engine and Mobile 1 syn 75w90 in final drive.
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    Rotella T6 in all my bikes

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    Whatever is on sale and meets specs for wet clutch. Walmart carries most of the stuff I use.


    Quote Originally Posted by bcnu53 View Post
    Rotella T6 in all my bikes

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macgyver0856 View Post
    Mobile 1 syn. 10w40 in engine and Mobile 1 syn 75w90 in final drive.

    +1
    Ray, love that pic, where was that taken at?
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    I too use Honda full-synth 10W-30 with an OEM oil filter. The oil is blended by Idemitsu of Japan in their Indiana lab/plant. Idemitsu is the 2nd largest oil company in Japan. They originally formulated the synth for Mazda rotary engines for the Mazda race car series. Upon dissasembly, the abused rotary engines showed NO sign of wear what-so-ever, per multiple racing teams. The full-synth motorcycle oil is based on and similar to this, only with the moly removed.

    Whether you choose dino or synth, just make sure it meets the manual recommendations for weight and grade, isn't "energy conserving" or "resource conserving", and you change it every 8k like clockwork. Many good brands on the market... nothing to lose any sleep over.



    Quote Originally Posted by SLOWDOG View Post
    I just use the Honda oil. First the 10/30 dino and now the full synthetic 10/30.

    I think it's probably safe to use the weight and grade oil that the manufacturer recommends, and buying Honda oil online from HDL or WingStuff is pretty simple.

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    Here are a few thoughts on my personal experience using Shell Rotella T and Rotella T6. As always, your mileage may vary.

    You ask about “Rotella T” which describes a whole family of oils, not just one. They have two products that are very commonly used in a wide variety of motorcycles. The first is their 15W-40 Rotella T dino oil and the second is Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40. Both of these products are fleet oils and meet the needs of entire fleets from lawn mowers to heavy diesel trucks. You can use either but I would recommend the Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40. Given that they are fleet oils, they contain ingredients to combat ash for the diesel members of the fleet that are of no benefit or harm to non diesels.

    Personally, I use both of them in my personal “fleet.” My ’95 Power Stroke diesel gets the 15W-40 because I’m too cheap to buy the synthetic for it. It would crank easier in the winter and I could extend oil change intervals if I did though, so I might come out ahead.

    My ’06 Power Stroke gets the T-6, as does my wife’s ’08 Honda Accord.

    My ’05 Kawasaki Concours C10 gets T6 now as well. It started life on the Mobile 1 Racing 4T, but the cost of Mobile’s advertising campaign became prohibitive for me to support and availability was sketchy.

    If I have time today my new 2012 Goldwing will get its first oil change to Rotella T6. 40W oils are on the same chart as 30W oils in your owner’s manual. They both cover the same service temperature range. The advantage to running 40W is that it won’t shear out of grade during it’s service life in your bike. It will still be at least 30 weight when you drain it in 8,000 miles. An oil that starts off as 30W will be less than that when you drain it, possibly as low as 20W. The 5 weight on the lower end of this multi viscosity oil improves your cold weather oil flow and makes life easier on your starter. The only advantage that multi viscosity oil with a high number of 30 would have over one with a high number of 40 would be a slight advantage in fuel economy. Keep in mind that the cold temp rating of 5 weight has the same advantage over a 10W so it’s probably a wash between 5W-40 and 10W-30 for fuel economy.

    I see the cams of my C10 twice a year, every 6,000 miles when I adjust the valves. The cams look great at over 50,000 miles. The demands of the Goldwing engine are much less than the Concours. It runs cooler at lower revs and has nearly twice the displacement to do the same job so it’s loafing by comparison.

    Shell does a good job of distributing their Rotella line. You can find it at truck stops and truck supply houses, oil distributors, most of the major auto parts chains and even Wal-Mart. Five dollars off per gallon at Advance Auto Parts right now. Some people have the impression that it is a cheap second rate product. It’s a high quality product line that has been around for decades and enjoys a loyal following without the massive ad campaign, which is why it is usually less expensive than some of its competitors who offer similar products.

    You also said that you weren’t sold on synthetic oil. Why? All of the premium car makers deliver their cars new with synthetic oil from the factory. In my Power Strokes diesels the oil does double duty. It does the standard lubrication duties, which in any diesel requires a high level of shear protection, but unique to the Power Stroke design, the oil also serves as an extremely high pressure hydraulic fluid for actuating the injectors. With the dino oil in my ’95 you will feel a loss of performance as shear begins to take it’s toll on the oil at around 3,000 miles. With the ’06 running the T6 synthetic there is no loss of performance at the 5,000 mile level when I change oil in order to lump it in with other maintenance task. Your Goldwing engine is pretty low stress and the engine alone shouldn’t cause oil to shear out of grade rapidly but the fact that the transmission shares the engine oil creates a higher shear burden than a typical car engine would have. A side bennifit of Rotella or other muti viscosity full synthetics is that you should experience smoother shifting.

    There are several old wives’ tales that have plagued synthetic oils since it has become commonly available. Some say it causes leaks; others say it shouldn’t be mixed with dino oil and still others say that it shouldn’t be put in a new engine until it has some magic number of miles. There is no evidence to suggest it causes leaks, all of the oil companies sell blends of syn and dino and many new car manufactures install it at the factory. Was there some other reason that you aren’t sold on synthetic oil?

    Rotella T6 is high quality, full synthetic oil that exceeds the manufactures requirements for your engine. The low key approach to advertising keeps the price reasonable and it is readily available from many vendors. It is in use in thousands of motorcycles around the world. There are many other oils that will work fine in your Goldwing but this one has a very good cost to bennifit ratio and is easy to buy.

    Gene

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    Seasoned Member Wing One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jersey Tim View Post
    Whatever is on sale and meets specs for wet clutch. Walmart carries most of the stuff I use.
    Just curious,

    What oil do you find in Walmart that is specific for wet clutches ?
    Last edited by Wing One; 03-28-2012 at 12:24 PM.
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    Thanks. Can you confirm that the oils (either/both?) are labeled as meeting Honda's recommendations?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gene W View Post
    Here are a few thoughts on my personal experience using Shell Rotella T and Rotella T6. As always, your mileage may vary.

    You ask about “Rotella T” which describes a whole family of oils, not just one. They have two products that are very commonly used in a wide variety of motorcycles. The first is their 15W-40 Rotella T dino oil and the second is Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40. Both of these products are fleet oils and meet the needs of entire fleets from lawn mowers to heavy diesel trucks. You can use either but I would recommend the Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40. Given that they are fleet oils, they contain ingredients to combat ash for the diesel members of the fleet that are of no benefit or harm to non diesels.

    Personally, I use both of them in my personal “fleet.” My ’95 Power Stroke diesel gets the 15W-40 because I’m too cheap to buy the synthetic for it. It would crank easier in the winter and I could extend oil change intervals if I did though, so I might come out ahead.

    My ’06 Power Stroke gets the T-6, as does my wife’s ’08 Honda Accord.

    My ’05 Kawasaki Concours C10 gets T6 now as well. It started life on the Mobile 1 Racing 4T, but the cost of Mobile’s advertising campaign became prohibitive for me to support and availability was sketchy.

    If I have time today my new 2012 Goldwing will get its first oil change to Rotella T6. 40W oils are on the same chart as 30W oils in your owner’s manual. They both cover the same service temperature range. The advantage to running 40W is that it won’t shear out of grade during it’s service life in your bike. It will still be at least 30 weight when you drain it in 8,000 miles. An oil that starts off as 30W will be less than that when you drain it, possibly as low as 20W. The 5 weight on the lower end of this multi viscosity oil improves your cold weather oil flow and makes life easier on your starter. The only advantage that multi viscosity oil with a high number of 30 would have over one with a high number of 40 would be a slight advantage in fuel economy. Keep in mind that the cold temp rating of 5 weight has the same advantage over a 10W so it’s probably a wash between 5W-40 and 10W-30 for fuel economy.

    I see the cams of my C10 twice a year, every 6,000 miles when I adjust the valves. The cams look great at over 50,000 miles. The demands of the Goldwing engine are much less than the Concours. It runs cooler at lower revs and has nearly twice the displacement to do the same job so it’s loafing by comparison.

    Shell does a good job of distributing their Rotella line. You can find it at truck stops and truck supply houses, oil distributors, most of the major auto parts chains and even Wal-Mart. Five dollars off per gallon at Advance Auto Parts right now. Some people have the impression that it is a cheap second rate product. It’s a high quality product line that has been around for decades and enjoys a loyal following without the massive ad campaign, which is why it is usually less expensive than some of its competitors who offer similar products.

    You also said that you weren’t sold on synthetic oil. Why? All of the premium car makers deliver their cars new with synthetic oil from the factory. In my Power Strokes diesels the oil does double duty. It does the standard lubrication duties, which in any diesel requires a high level of shear protection, but unique to the Power Stroke design, the oil also serves as an extremely high pressure hydraulic fluid for actuating the injectors. With the dino oil in my ’95 you will feel a loss of performance as shear begins to take it’s toll on the oil at around 3,000 miles. With the ’06 running the T6 synthetic there is no loss of performance at the 5,000 mile level when I change oil in order to lump it in with other maintenance task. Your Goldwing engine is pretty low stress and the engine alone shouldn’t cause oil to shear out of grade rapidly but the fact that the transmission shares the engine oil creates a higher shear burden than a typical car engine would have. A side bennifit of Rotella or other muti viscosity full synthetics is that you should experience smoother shifting.

    There are several old wives’ tales that have plagued synthetic oils since it has become commonly available. Some say it causes leaks; others say it shouldn’t be mixed with dino oil and still others say that it shouldn’t be put in a new engine until it has some magic number of miles. There is no evidence to suggest it causes leaks, all of the oil companies sell blends of syn and dino and many new car manufactures install it at the factory. Was there some other reason that you aren’t sold on synthetic oil?

    Rotella T6 is high quality, full synthetic oil that exceeds the manufactures requirements for your engine. The low key approach to advertising keeps the price reasonable and it is readily available from many vendors. It is in use in thousands of motorcycles around the world. There are many other oils that will work fine in your Goldwing but this one has a very good cost to bennifit ratio and is easy to buy.

    Gene
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    Austin, TX area
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wing One View Post
    Just curious,

    What oil do you find in Walmart that is specific for wet clutches ?
    Any motor oil that (1) meets/exceeds Honda's recomendation(s) and (2) is NOT labeled as energy conserving' should be fine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben721364 View Post
    Thanks. Can you confirm that the oils (either/both?) are labeled as meeting Honda's recommendations?

    Yes. T6 is JASO MA rated.

    Gene

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wing One View Post
    Just curious,

    What oil do you find in Walmart that is specific for wet clutches ?
    Every diesel oil made. It is for wet brakes just to add good measure.

    I am not sure if the OP thinks the Rotella T and T6 are not capable or good, or just thinks that more expensive is more capable.

    Find a wet clutch compatible oil and change it at 8K or less intervals. $25 a quart or $3 a quart, as long as it meets the minimum requirements, will work fine.

    Cheers.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben721364 View Post
    Any motor oil that (1) meets/exceeds Honda's recomendation(s) and (2) is NOT labeled as energy conserving' should be fine.
    And not synthetic, the only synthetic I know of that's recommended for wet clutches is the Mobil 4T 10w-40, witch is what my bike gets.
    Last edited by Wing One; 03-28-2012 at 07:44 PM.
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    mobil1 4T always in both bikes at 5k intervals

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    It’s perfectly OK to use synthetic oil with wet clutches unless it is labeled as “Energy Conserving” in the bottom half of the API service lable, aka the "doughnut" That is also true for dino oil that is labeled energy conserving.

    Gene

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene W View Post
    It’s perfectly OK to use synthetic oil with wet clutches unless it is labeled as “Energy Conserving” in the bottom half of the API service lable, aka the "doughnut" That is also true for dino oil that is labeled energy conserving.

    Gene
    It is not "Ok" to use synthetic on wet clutches, eventually it will cause glazing and slippage.

    That is also why you should not use the "Energy Conserving" oils, they contain friction modifiers like Moly.
    Last edited by Wing One; 03-28-2012 at 08:11 PM.
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    - WRONG -

    You're a few years behind the times sir...


    Quote Originally Posted by Wing One View Post
    It is not "Ok" to use synthetic on wet clutches, eventually it will cause glazing and slippage.

    That is also why you should not use the "energy Conserving" oils, they contain friction modifiers like Moly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wing One View Post
    It is not "Ok" to use synthetic on wet clutches, eventually it will cause glazing and slippage.

    That is also why you should not use the "Energy Conserving" oils, they contain friction modifiers like Moly.
    I'll bet there are a lot of oil manufacturers that would be news to.

    YMMV
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Klavans View Post
    - WRONG -

    You're a few years behind the times sir...
    I'm not going to get into a discussion, but maybe you are the one thats a few years behind, all you have to do is read on synthetic that is wet clutch specific to know why they leave out some friction modifiers.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXREALTOR View Post
    I'll bet there are a lot of oil manufacturers that would be news to.

    YMMV
    Oook, I'm done here.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wing One View Post
    It is not "Ok" to use synthetic on wet clutches, eventually it will cause glazing and slippage.
    I wonder when the clutch on my bike that I have been using car grade Mobil 1 20W-50 is going to start slipping. After all, I have been using it that same machine for almost 17 years now.

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    Ben,

    I told you earlier that T6 was JASO MA, which I read directly from a gallon I had on hand. Since then I have found on the Rotella web site that the Triple-T 15W-40 dino also has the JASO MA certification. I used to run it in my air heads several years ago.

    For anyone unfamiliar, JASO is The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization, There MA rating is motorcycle specific, a distinction unavailable from the API rating system. That is why I didn't bother to mention that both oils are also API SM rated which exceeds the Honda requirement for SJ or higher. I should mention that it was because of the high amount of interest that motorcycle owners showed in using these products that Shell spent the small fortune that is required to get these two oils JASO certified. There has been an ongoing conversation on their web site for years between owners and Shell engineers on this topic. The oil already meet the specs but there were many folks that wanted to read it on the label, and now they can.

    Fortunately, this isn't one of those $25.00 per quart oils that TXREALTOR joked about. I paid $22.00 for a gallon a few days ago and I have bought it for as little as $17.00. Most Wings probably see one oil change per year. Even I can afford that.

    Gene

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    I don't think we disagree...?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gene W View Post
    Ben,

    I told you earlier that T6 was JASO MA, which I read directly from a gallon I had on hand. Since then I have found on the Rotella web site that the Triple-T 15W-40 dino also has the JASO MA certification. I used to run it in my air heads several years ago.

    For anyone unfamiliar, JASO is The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization, There MA rating is motorcycle specific, a distinction unavailable from the API rating system. That is why I didn't bother to mention that both oils are also API SM rated which exceeds the Honda requirement for SJ or higher. I should mention that it was because of the high amount of interest that motorcycle owners showed in using these products that Shell spent the small fortune that is required to get these two oils JASO certified. There has been an ongoing conversation on their web site for years between owners and Shell engineers on this topic. The oil already meet the specs but there were many folks that wanted to read it on the label, and now they can.

    Fortunately, this isn't one of those $25.00 per quart oils that TXREALTOR joked about. I paid $22.00 for a gallon a few days ago and I have bought it for as little as $17.00. Most Wings probably see one oil change per year. Even I can afford that.

    Gene
    ______________________________________________
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    Austin, TX area
    Many bikes and trikes since 1955, mostly BMWs. Currently looking for a motivated seller with the right Airhead.

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