Installing Headlight Modulator Video - Part 1
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    Supporting Vendor Cruiseman's Avatar
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    Default Installing Headlight Modulator Video - Part 1

    I recently installed the Kisan pathBlazer headlight modulator on my 2012 Wing's high beams. The 2-part video might help you with your install process. Should also be helpful for anyone with a pre-2012 airbag model.



    http://www.CruisemansGarage.com
    Last edited by Cruiseman; 03-28-2012 at 07:05 PM.

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    First thing I put on the 12 and have them on the 05 and the 2000 wing

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    Supporting Vendor Cruiseman's Avatar
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    I am editing the video to remove the part about removing the radiator cap. It is possible that someone could accidentally drop a bolt or other debris into the radiator, and it is really not necessary to remove the cap to do this job.

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    I think your thought re. removing the radiator cap is the correct decision. Your videos are excellent but as soon as I watched you manipulating those bolts abound the open radiator opening I immediately thought that Mr. Murphy would do his thing if I was performing that job.

    Keep up the great work!
    Hector
    2003 ABS Durango Red Metallic
    New Frame
    Traxxion - "Old" Fully Monty

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    Seasoned Member GatorWing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruiseman View Post
    I am editing the video to remove the part about removing the radiator cap. It is possible that someone could accidentally drop a bolt or other debris into the radiator, and it is really not necessary to remove the cap to do this job.
    Hi Chris...I installed the same modulator as you know. You made a great video. I did not remove the radiator cap but the job is challenging as you know. The angle of the servo is misleading for sliding it out for sure. It takes a lot of patience and is not as easy as it first appears . Tiny hands would be helpful. I had a tougher time with the left side. I had the dash off and had to peek in a tiny opening to see the alignment of the pins. A forehead light helped a lot. The right side had a cowl support bar in the way. It is not a job for someone without a lot of patience. I have to admit I fought it about 3 hours working by feel.
    I dread the day when I have to replace the right high beam bulb. I had the same modulator on my 09 and the difference in the metals on the Kisan and the softer metal on the bulb terminals made removal a bear . I pulled so hard I thought the whole back of the light assembly would break. I may apply some dielectric grease on the connection the next time it needs work .
    On the left side I would suggest that anyone that removes air vent lever be careful not to drop the screw clip. Mine was loose so I removed it and squeezed it for more tension on the plastic. I also tied a string on the wire clip on the upper right on the servo. Very easy to drop that into the Honda hole if the screw is removed .


    2012 Level III metalic blue Goldwing - 47K trouble free miles
    2009 metallic silver Goldwing - 43K trouble free miles

    2005 VTX 1800N - 33K trouble free miles
    2005 VTX 1300R - 16K trouble free miles
    1975 GL1000 red with chrome fenders & Vetter Windjammer faring
    1941 Tank shift Harley Davidson painted light blue with house paint

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    Seasoned Member glarson3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorWing View Post
    Hi Chris...I installed the same modulator as you know. You made a great video. I did not remove the radiator cap but the job is challenging as you know. The angle of the servo is misleading for sliding it out for sure. It takes a lot of patience and is not as easy as it first appears . Tiny hands would be helpful. I had a tougher time with the left side. I had the dash off and had to peek in a tiny opening to see the alignment of the pins. A forehead light helped a lot. The right side had a cowl support bar in the way. It is not a job for someone without a lot of patience. I have to admit I fought it about 3 hours working by feel.
    I dread the day when I have to replace the right high beam bulb. I had the same modulator on my 09 and the difference in the metals on the Kisan and the softer metal on the bulb terminals made removal a bear . I pulled so hard I thought the whole back of the light assembly would break. I may apply some dielectric grease on the connection the next time it needs work .
    On the left side I would suggest that anyone that removes air vent lever be careful not to drop the screw clip. Mine was loose so I removed it and squeezed it for more tension on the plastic. I also tied a string on the wire clip on the upper right on the servo. Very easy to drop that into the Honda hole if the screw is removed .
    I dropped mine into the Honda hole on removal. I saw and heard something drop. Luckily it rested neatly below so I could fish it out. I didn't see it, or realize what had fallen(I thought it was the cable moving) until reassembly when my vocabulary increased by a few words because I realized what was missing. Good video, and I didn't remove the radiator cap. If you've got big hands the left side is especially difficult. Right side is more awkward, but if you've got neanderthal hands, find a kid to do the plugging in the modulator pieces work for you. I was able to feel how the pins inserted, and go by feel to get them plugged in. It's a pretty simple job, especially with the videos. I think mine took a little over an hour taking my time pausing the video until I was done with each major step and ready to go onto the next. NO EXTRA PARTS when I was done.
    Costa Mesa, CA
    2012 Red level 3

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    Seasoned Member GatorWing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glarson3 View Post
    I dropped mine into the Honda hole on removal. I saw and heard something drop. Luckily it rested neatly below so I could fish it out. I didn't see it, or realize what had fallen(I thought it was the cable moving) until reassembly when my vocabulary increased by a few words because I realized what was missing. Good video, and I didn't remove the radiator cap. If you've got big hands the left side is especially difficult. Right side is more awkward, but if you've got neanderthal hands, find a kid to do the plugging in the modulator pieces work for you. I was able to feel how the pins inserted, and go by feel to get them plugged in. It's a pretty simple job, especially with the videos. I think mine took a little over an hour taking my time pausing the video until I was done with each major step and ready to go onto the next. NO EXTRA PARTS when I was done.
    The reason it took me longer is I removed the dash so I could fish a 3/8" piece of heat shrink tubing across the front of the fairing. It is forward of the center fairing brace. I then pulled the wire from the slave to the master with a string. If you reach in where a direct route would be left to right you will find lots of hoses and brackets that can damage the wire link when you turn .
    To get the units on the bulb terminals, I discovered a neat trick since it is tough to get hands in to push them all the way home. I used 1/2" Delrin plastic machinist rod cut about 5" long. I put round rubber feet with adheasive back (Radio Shack #64-2346) on the rod end. I could then see all with a flashlight and push them home with the rod. A 1/2" wood dowel rod with some 5 minute epoxy smeared on the end and allowed to cure would work well. Put the adheasive backed rubber tip on the cured epoxy for the push stick. The rubber foot goes against the modulator unit so it doesn't slip. Not a job for a person with normal sized hands for sure .
    I think when it is time for an air filter or a high beam bulb goes out I will put dielectric grease on all terminals. Nothing I am looking forward to .
    Last edited by GatorWing; 04-03-2012 at 10:03 AM.


    2012 Level III metalic blue Goldwing - 47K trouble free miles
    2009 metallic silver Goldwing - 43K trouble free miles

    2005 VTX 1800N - 33K trouble free miles
    2005 VTX 1300R - 16K trouble free miles
    1975 GL1000 red with chrome fenders & Vetter Windjammer faring
    1941 Tank shift Harley Davidson painted light blue with house paint

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    Seasoned Member mingo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the video.. When I had my front end Traxxionized, my installer removed the shelter, then unbolted the GPS / Speedometer cluster and held it up and out of the way with a bungee cord to the top of the windshield, exposing all 4 headlight covers. It seemed easier to remove the shelter and lift up speedo, than to try to work semi-blindly on those finicky headlight tabs.. what would you say?

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    Supporting Vendor Cruiseman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mingo View Post
    Thanks for the video.. When I had my front end Traxxionized, my installer removed the shelter, then unbolted the GPS / Speedometer cluster and held it up and out of the way with a bungee cord to the top of the windshield, exposing all 4 headlight covers. It seemed easier to remove the shelter and lift up speedo, than to try to work semi-blindly on those finicky headlight tabs.. what would you say?
    Certainly would be easier to get to the headlights that way, but VERY time consuming.

  11. #10
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    Thanks for posting the video Cruiserman!

    I am new to Goldwings and didn't know how to access the areas necessary to install the Kisan pathBlazer. I have it on my other bike and felt kind of naked riding without the system these first 3000 miles on the new Wing.

    It was really a simple install after seeing how to gain access. I have 2x hands, but my wife has tiny little monkey hands so I got her to help me route the signal wire between the master and the slave and to wire tie the slack in the wire out of the way. I had no problem otherwise. This is a good preparedness drill for changing a headlamp on the road as well.

    I did't need to remove the radiator cap. I used dielectric grease on the terminals, and used the eraser end of a new, large round, #2 pencil to push on the back of the light sockets to be sure the modulators were seated on the bulbs. The grease actually made them go on so easily that it wasn't necessary, but it was a good double check anyway. I notice a short delay between switching the high beam on and the first modulation that my other system doesn't have. It may be the result of the master and slave configuration.

    Thanks again; you helped make it an easy job. I will install the system for my wing LEDs, tail blazer I believe, next.

    Gene

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