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    Seasoned Member nycwinger's Avatar
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    Default Changing spark plugs.

    Hey guys. I've been on here searching through the treads but can't seem to find any info on changing my spark plugs. I'm taking a long trip next month and i wanna replace the plugs before i leave. Where do i start? Any help would be appreciated, thanks..

    Go hard or go home!!
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    Seasoned Member kwthom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nycwinger View Post
    Hey guys. I've been on here searching through the treads but can't seem to find any info on changing my spark plugs. I'm taking a long trip next month and i wanna replace the plugs before i leave. Where do i start? Any help would be appreciated, thanks..
    http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...My-Spark-Plugs

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    Seasoned Member nycwinger's Avatar
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    Thanks KwThom..

    Go hard or go home!!
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    Chromeaphobe laen's Avatar
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    15-20 minute job
    2-3 beers

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    Seasoned Member lmartin780's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laen View Post
    15-20 minute job
    2-3 beers

    Wow!!! For me.... 20 minute job, 1/2 beer.
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    1. If you have a owners manual, plug changes are covered there.
    2. Curious, how many miles do you have on the bike? I ask this because plugs are usually good for many more miles than the suggested replacement miles!
    Remove the small black inserts from mounting bolts(2) in the chrome strip in the middle of the "valve covers"
    Remove the small black inserts from the lower bolts(3) in the spark plug covers.
    Remove the bolts(2)(small heads) in the middle chrome strip, lay strip on a towel to prevent scratching.
    Remove the bolts(3) in the lower spark plug covers, lay aside on a towel to prevent scratching.
    You should now see the plugs. I blow a little air around the plugs at this time to clear any dirt/debris that may be present.
    I remove/replace 1 plug at a time, after disconnecting the plug wire, of course.
    On the left side, this is a good time to allow the crankcase breather tube to drain(located on the lower front area). Has a plug in the end one removes to allow it to drain.
    A dab of anti-seize is suggested by some on each plug. A little dab will do ya'.
    Plug gap is 1.0-1.1mm and I use OEM plugs.
    Thread spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-threading.
    Tighten to 18N-m
    Reinstall plug covers and chrome strip
    Torque 10N-m
    Reinstall black inserts.
    Last edited by tfdeputydawg; 04-18-2012 at 05:46 AM.

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    Seasoned Member nycwinger's Avatar
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    Default Thanks guys.

    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    1. If you have a owners manual, plug changes are covered there.
    2. Curious, how many miles do you have on the bike? I ask this because plugs are usually good for many more miles than the suggested replacement miles!
    Remove the small black inserts from mounting bolts(2) in the chrome strip in the middle of the "valve covers"
    Remove the small black inserts from the lower bolts(3) in the spark plug covers.
    Remove the bolts(2)(small heads) in the middle chrome strip, lay strip on a towel to prevent scratching.
    Remove the bolts(3) in the lower spark plug covers, lay aside on a towel to prevent scratching.
    You should now see the plugs. I blow a lower air around the plugs at this time to clear any dirt/debris that may be present.
    I remove/replace 1 plug at a time, after disconnect the plug wire, of course.
    On the left side, this is a good time to allow the crankcase breather tube to drain(located on the lower front area). Has a plug in the end one removes to allow it to drain.
    A dab of anti-seize is suggested by some on each plug. A little dab will do ya'.
    Plug gap is 1.0-1.1mm and I use OEM plugs.
    Thread spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-threading.
    Tighten to 18N-m
    Reinstall plug covers and chrome strip
    Torque 10N-m
    Reinstall black inserts.
    Thanks for the help fellas.

    @dptydawg, that's just the instructions i was looking for. My wing has about 48k and has never let me down. I usually pay my mechanic to do the work but this time i'm gonna tackle it. Why am i paying for something i could easily do myself, right? Thanks again for the tips..

    Go hard or go home!!
    03 Illusions Red GL1800
    92 Bushtec Turbo

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    Seasoned Member Biker John's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    1. If you have a owners manual, plug changes are covered there.
    2. Curious, how many miles do you have on the bike? I ask this because plugs are usually good for many more miles than the suggested replacement miles!
    Remove the small black inserts from mounting bolts(2) in the chrome strip in the middle of the "valve covers"
    Remove the small black inserts from the lower bolts(3) in the spark plug covers.
    Remove the bolts(2)(small heads) in the middle chrome strip, lay strip on a towel to prevent scratching.
    Remove the bolts(3) in the lower spark plug covers, lay aside on a towel to prevent scratching.
    You should now see the plugs. I blow a lower air around the plugs at this time to clear any dirt/debris that may be present.
    I remove/replace 1 plug at a time, after disconnect the plug wire, of course.
    On the left side, this is a good time to allow the crankcase breather tube to drain(located on the lower front area). Has a plug in the end one removes to allow it to drain.
    A dab of anti-seize is suggested by some on each plug. A little dab will do ya'.
    Plug gap is 1.0-1.1mm and I use OEM plugs.
    Thread spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-threading.
    Tighten to 18N-m
    Reinstall plug covers and chrome strip
    Torque 10N-m
    Reinstall black inserts.
    That's the worst part of changing plugs in my book.
    John
    If Riding A Wing Is A Mid life Crisis....Bring It On!
    2006 Dark Red GL 1800
    Gold Wing, Adopted 4-21-06 Premium Audio/Comfort



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    Seasoned Member thecruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    1. If you have a owners manual, plug changes are covered there.
    2. Curious, how many miles do you have on the bike? I ask this because plugs are usually good for many more miles than the suggested replacement miles!
    Remove the small black inserts from mounting bolts(2) in the chrome strip in the middle of the "valve covers"
    Remove the small black inserts from the lower bolts(3) in the spark plug covers.
    Remove the bolts(2)(small heads) in the middle chrome strip, lay strip on a towel to prevent scratching.
    Remove the bolts(3) in the lower spark plug covers, lay aside on a towel to prevent scratching.
    You should now see the plugs. I blow a lower air around the plugs at this time to clear any dirt/debris that may be present.
    I remove/replace 1 plug at a time, after disconnect the plug wire, of course.
    On the left side, this is a good time to allow the crankcase breather tube to drain(located on the lower front area). Has a plug in the end one removes to allow it to drain.
    A dab of anti-seize is suggested by some on each plug. A little dab will do ya'.
    Plug gap is 1.0-1.1mm and I use OEM plugs.
    Thread spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-threading.
    Tighten to 18N-m
    Reinstall plug covers and chrome strip
    Torque 10N-m
    Reinstall black inserts.
    deputy,
    Y'all forgot the last line....

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    Seasoned Member GatorWing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nycwinger View Post
    Hey guys. I've been on here searching through the treads but can't seem to find any info on changing my spark plugs. I'm taking a long trip next month and i wanna replace the plugs before i leave. Where do i start? Any help would be appreciated, thanks..
    The Internet is the fountain of misinformation. Do yourself a big favor and read your owners manual for information on installing NEW plugs. It is not the 13 FT/LBS or 18 NM posted here. That is only for plugs that are being maintained and have had their sealing washer seated. That torque on a new install can lead to serious damage if the plug loosens and it is not covered under warranty.
    If you don't have an owners manual, go to the plug site of the manufacturer of the plug you are installing. You are looking for 14 MM non-tapered plugs installed in an aluminum head. If you don't have a torque wrench most manufactures show a rotation method after hand tight on NEW plugs. It is also shown on the back of the box for multi packaged plugs from some manufactures. When in doubt call the manufacturer. They have people that can explain the difference between installing a new plug and reinstalling a maintained (probably cleaned plug) or any other question you may have .

    Note: Make sure your engine is like overnight cold before removing or installing plugs.
    Last edited by GatorWing; 04-17-2012 at 02:48 PM. Reason: :-)


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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorWing View Post
    The Internet is the fountain of misinformation. Do yourself a big favor and read your owners manual for information on installing NEW plugs. It is not the 13 FT/LBS or 18 NM posted here. That is only for plugs that are being maintained and have had their sealing washer seated. That torque on a new install can lead to serious damage if the plug loosens and it is not covered under warranty.
    If you don't have an owners manual, go to the plug site of the manufacturer of the plug you are installing. You are looking for 14 MM non-tapered plugs installed in an aluminum head. If you don't have a torque wrench most manufactures show a rotation method after hand tight on NEW plugs. It is also shown on the back of the box for multi packaged plugs from some manufactures. When in doubt call the manufacturer. They have people that can explain the difference between installing a new plug and reinstalling a maintained (probably cleaned plug) or any other question you may have .

    Note: Make sure your engine is like overnight cold before removing or installing plugs.
    So, that means the Honda shop manual I have is incorrect
    Maintenance Sect 4, Page 4-9: Torque 18N-m(13 ft/lbs). Guess I'm very fortunate I haven't damaged a lot of GoldWings
    Oh, following your suggestion:
    From the Denso web sight:
    M14 Stainless Gasket Type(*2) 20-30N-m New:About 2/3 turn/Previously used: About 1/12 turn
    I would definitely not go to 30N-m Yes the internet can be a dangerous thing
    Thanks for your input. Going to call Honda customer service on this one. Big difference between 18N-m, called out in my manual and as much as 30N-m called for on the Denso web sight. Not sure how to measure 1/12th of a turn
    Really appreciate your input. I wonder if there is a difference between my 06 manual and your 2012 manual??????
    Last edited by tfdeputydawg; 04-18-2012 at 06:21 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Biker John View Post
    That's the worst part of changing plugs in my book.
    Next time you fuss with those little plugs to keep dirt and grim out of the recess, just lightly grease them with a white grease of some kind......silly cone, vasoline.........and they fit right in.

    Taking them out I use a dentist pick........pops them right out.

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    Seasoned Member BigMick's Avatar
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    Plus on NGK plugs anti-seize is not required because of the special metal coating on the threads of the plugs. Anti-seize is unnecessary and may cause you to overtorque your sparkplugs.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigMick View Post
    Plus on NGK plugs anti-seize is not required because of the special metal coating on the threads of the plugs. Anti-seize is unnecessary and may cause you to overtorque your sparkplugs.
    Actually, this could be a cute deal. If someone undertorques new plugs that are specced at 20-30 N-M dry to 18 N-M and uses antiseize they'll be effectively be in the recommended range of 20-30 N-M, dry. It's almost like two wrongs making a right.

    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    Not sure how to measure 1/12th of a turn
    To turn something 1/12 of a turn after hand tight. Hand tighten. Mark one point of the hex. Mark the surrounding area next to that point and next to the next point clockwise. A piece of tape for the last two marks may be helpful. Tighten until the marked point is halfway between the last two marks.
    Last edited by Tryker; 04-18-2012 at 10:13 AM.

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    Seasoned Member GatorWing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    So, that means the Honda shop manual I have is incorrect
    Maintenance Sect 4, Page 4-9: Torque 18N-m(13 ft/lbs). Guess I'm very fortunate I haven't damaged a lot of GoldWings
    Oh, following your suggestion:
    From the Denso web sight:
    M14 Stainless Gasket Type(*2) 20-30N-m New:About 2/3 turn/Previously used: About 1/12 turn
    I would definitely not go to 30N-m Yes the internet can be a dangerous thing
    Thanks for your input. Going to call Honda customer service on this one. Big difference between 18N-m, called out in my manual and as much as 30N-m called for on the Denso web sight. Not sure how to measure 1/12th of a turn
    Really appreciate your input. I wonder if there is a difference between my 06 manual and your 2012 manual??????
    I am not going to battle with you over reading comprehension . Neither the HONDA maintenance manual (the big book sold by Honda as an accessory) for my 09 or 12 Wing address installing NEW plugs. They only address maintenance. The 13 FT/LBS they mention for is only for reinstalling a used plug that was properly seated at its initial install. That means if the plug has been removed to be inspected, cleaned etc. the proper torque is 13 FT/LBS to reinstall it.
    Look at the smaller book that should have been included with your bike. It is called the OWNERS MANUAL . It addresses both the torque for installing 2 approved brands of Spark Plugs plus a second torque that is for reinstalling a maintained plug (matches the big maintenance Manual). They even illustrate the rotation angle method for those that do not own a torque wrench. For your other question. If you have been installing NEW at 13 FT/LBS you have been in error.
    Most get away with it only due to the friction of the rubber plug boot not allowing the plug to unscrew if it tries to loosen. Some are not that fortunate and have severe expensive damage. Any decent tech can look at a plug and tell immediately if the sealing washer was ever properly seated in its lifetime. If not any engine damage to the head is void under Honda's warranty.

    Trust what I highlighted in your post. It closely matches Honda's owners manual for new plug installs . The 1/12 rotation is approximately 13 FT/LBS for a maintained plug. It is easy to measure. Screw in the plug so it is not cross threaded. I use a 5" long plug socket. When the plug is hand tight stop. Mark the top of the socket with a colored marker. Insert a ratchet wrench and rotate 1/12 of a rotation (wipe off mark with alcohol when finished). I have not checked the Denso site so I don't know if your 1/12 is correct but will assume you typed it correctly. Beware that different brand plugs have different design sealing washers. That is why Honda prints two separate rotation blurbs depending on the brand plug you select .
    It is like the old saying. Sometimes you eat the bear and sometimes the bear eats you .
    Last edited by GatorWing; 04-18-2012 at 02:36 PM.


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    Thank you. That's what we are all here for, to help each other and to correct mis-information when incorrectly posted.

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    I just run the plugs in hand tight and a bit more with the socket.......not real tight.......you can feel the washer give a bit and seat. Never have put a torque wrench on a plug......in anything........never had one come loose yet either.

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    Very interesting turn of events here
    1. Checked the Honda Owners Manual that came w/my 06 Wing.
    THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO TORQUE SPEC MENTIONED FOR PLUG INSTALL. ONLY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR THE REINSTALL OF USED PLUGS AND ROTATIONAL INFO FOR INITIAL INSTALL OF NEW PLUGS WHICH ARE THEN TO BE LOOSENED AND REINSTALLED TO A ROTATIONAL SETTING. NOR IS THERE ANY DIRECTION TO USE ANY KIND OF ANTI SEIZE OR ANY OTHER TYPE LUBRICANT. I have never installed new plugs, removed them and reinstalled again
    2. Rechecked my Honda issued Service Manual for my 06 GL1800 Gold Wing. Chapter 4 page 9:
    THERE IS A TORQUE SPEC OF 18N-m's(1.8kgf-m, 13lbf-ft) W/NO REFERENCE TO NEW OR USED PLUGS NOR ANY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR PLUG INSTALL. NOR THE USE OF ANTI-SEIZE OR OTHER LUBE
    Now I'm confused, which is not hard to do. Makes my call to Honda Customer Service even more important to me!
    GatorWing, thanks for the PM, however there was no need for an apology as there was no offense taken. I value your comments, especially when they lead to the above finding of conflicting information, supposedly both from the same source Honda Corporation.
    Maybe a couple of our resident professionals will comment on their install of new and reused plugs

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    Default My personal plug changing checklist

    1. Place bike on center stand
    2. Remove rubber plugs from 5 socket bolts on left and right cylinder head covers
    3. Remove socket bolts and covers.
    4. Disconnect spark plug caps
    5. Use compressed air to clean around spark plug base.
    6. Remove spark plugs

    7. Measure gap on new plugs (should be .039 - .043)
    8. install each plug by hand to prevent cross threading
    9. Tighten with plug wrench to 13 ft. lbs (156 in. lbs)
    10. Install spark plug caps.
    11. Install cylinder head covers and tighten bolts to 7 ft. lbs (84 in.lbs)
    12. Install rubber plugs.
    Last edited by wvprez; 04-18-2012 at 05:40 PM.
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    Seasoned Member GatorWing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    Very interesting turn of events here
    1. Checked the Honda Owners Manual that came w/my 06 Wing.
    THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO TORQUE SPEC MENTIONED FOR PLUG INSTALL. ONLY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR THE REINSTALL OF USED PLUGS AND ROTATIONAL INFO FOR INITIAL INSTALL OF NEW PLUGS WHICH ARE THEN TO BE LOOSENED AND REINSTALLED TO A ROTATIONAL SETTING. NOR IS THERE ANY DIRECTION TO USE ANY KIND OF ANTI SEIZE OR ANY OTHER TYPE LUBRICANT. I have never installed new plugs, removed them and reinstalled again
    2. Rechecked my Honda issued Service Manual for my 06 GL1800 Gold Wing. Chapter 4 page 9:
    THERE IS A TORQUE SPEC OF 18N-m's(1.8kgf-m, 13lbf-ft) W/NO REFERENCE TO NEW OR USED PLUGS NOR ANY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR PLUG INSTALL. NOR THE USE OF ANTI-SEIZE OR OTHER LUBE
    Now I'm confused, which is not hard to do. Makes my call to Honda Customer Service even more important to me!
    GatorWing, thanks for the PM, however there was no need for an apology as there was no offense taken. I value your comments, especially when they lead to the above finding of conflicting information, supposedly both from the same source Honda Corporation.
    Maybe a couple of our resident professionals will comment on their install of new and reused plugs
    Congratulations. I changed your quote to red for finding the correct answer for NEW plugs. No one has stated a torque in FT/LBS for a new install. The rotation you noted is the indicator that the plugs sealing washer has been seated for its initial install only. The 13 FT/LBS is the torque to reinstall a serviced plug. If you navigate to the NGK plug manufactures site, they show the rotations you seen in your owners manual and the matching torque for the rotations they show. I went through this exercise along time ago with a gentleman from Hawaii. He called NGK and got the same engineer I had spoke to previously. I am not going to name names but the NGK engineer felt the gentleman from Hawaii was very confused. Apparently the Hawaii guy did not understand that torque using the rotation method can also be expressed as FT/LBS with a torque wrench when clamping force is applied to the sealing washer . The engineer added that NGK is not responsible for damage to engines due to improper plug installations.

    As far as Kit's response, the point of seating can be felt using a wrench alone but I prefer manufactures data. Everyone must decide for themselves what consequences may be.

    The engineer from NGK did say there is no need for loosening and re-torquing for 13 FT/LBS and that sounds reasonable.

    The feels good to me stuff I see on the "Step by Step" is exactly why I don't purchase anybodies videos. Honda owns tools like strain meters that most can't afford. They intentionally strip fasteners and read the torque the fastener failed at. What you read about stripping things like oil drain plugs with a torque wrench is nonsense. Honda includes a good margin of safety factor in what they specify. If stripped, they know someone has used the "Feels good to me method" too many times and the damage is cumulative . It could also be a faulty wrench or a faulty wrench operator.
    OK...enough of my rant and my dog Spike is out of here .


    2012 Level III metalic blue Goldwing - 42K trouble free miles
    2009 metallic silver Goldwing - 43K trouble free miles

    2005 VTX 1800N - 33K trouble free miles
    2005 VTX 1300R - 16K trouble free miles
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    Seasoned Member bamadave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wvprez View Post
    1. Place bike on center stand
    2. Remove rubber plugs from 5 socket bolts on left and right cylinder head covers
    3. Remove socket bolts and covers.
    4. Disconnect spark plug caps
    5. Use compressed air to clean around spark plug base.
    6. Remove spark plugs

    7. Measure gap on new plugs (should be .039 - .043)
    8. install each plug by hand to prevent cross threading
    9. Tighten with plug wrench to 13 ft. lbs (156 in. lbs)
    10. Install spark plug caps.
    11. Install cylinder head covers and tighten bolts to 7 ft. lbs (84 in.lbs)
    12. Install rubber plugs.


    To keep dirt and other material from possibly getting into the engine?
    bamadave
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    Very interesting turn of events here
    1. Checked the Honda Owners Manual that came w/my 06 Wing.
    THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO TORQUE SPEC MENTIONED FOR PLUG INSTALL. ONLY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR THE REINSTALL OF USED PLUGS AND ROTATIONAL INFO FOR INITIAL INSTALL OF NEW PLUGS WHICH ARE THEN TO BE LOOSENED AND REINSTALLED TO A ROTATIONAL SETTING. NOR IS THERE ANY DIRECTION TO USE ANY KIND OF ANTI SEIZE OR ANY OTHER TYPE LUBRICANT. I have never installed new plugs, removed them and reinstalled again
    2. Rechecked my Honda issued Service Manual for my 06 GL1800 Gold Wing. Chapter 4 page 9:
    THERE IS A TORQUE SPEC OF 18N-m's(1.8kgf-m, 13lbf-ft) W/NO REFERENCE TO NEW OR USED PLUGS NOR ANY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR PLUG INSTALL. NOR THE USE OF ANTI-SEIZE OR OTHER LUBE
    Now I'm confused, which is not hard to do. Makes my call to Honda Customer Service even more important to me!
    GatorWing, thanks for the PM, however there was no need for an apology as there was no offense taken. I value your comments, especially when they lead to the above finding of conflicting information, supposedly both from the same source Honda Corporation.
    Maybe a couple of our resident professionals will comment on their install of new and reused plugs
    No claim here to be a professional, just an amateur who has studied threaded fasteners a lot. Some basic points for your consideration.

    New plugs definitely have to be tightened farther to crush the washer. My owners manual says tighten new plugs 1/2 turn past hand tight, used ones 1/8-1/4 turn.

    I believe torque specs for spark plugs are always "dry", and would require some reduction for antiseize. New high tech plugs like the iridiums are plated to remove the need for antiseize, and the torque spec is definitely dry. All that assumes the threads on the engine are in like new condition.

    Absent specific language in the shop manual with regard to old plugs and new, it's far from as clear to me as it is to Gatorwing that the shop manual refers only to old plugs. Obviously Honda recommends plug replacement at regular intervals, and it would be very strange for the shop manual procedure not to include installing them. It's also not clear to me how much additional torque, as opposed to additional number of turns past hand tight, would be needed to crush the gasket.
    Last edited by Tryker; 04-18-2012 at 08:11 PM.

  24. #23
    Seasoned Member Too Tall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    Very interesting turn of events here
    1. Checked the Honda Owners Manual that came w/my 06 Wing.
    THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO TORQUE SPEC MENTIONED FOR PLUG INSTALL. ONLY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR THE REINSTALL OF USED PLUGS AND ROTATIONAL INFO FOR INITIAL INSTALL OF NEW PLUGS WHICH ARE THEN TO BE LOOSENED AND REINSTALLED TO A ROTATIONAL SETTING. NOR IS THERE ANY DIRECTION TO USE ANY KIND OF ANTI SEIZE OR ANY OTHER TYPE LUBRICANT. I have never installed new plugs, removed them and reinstalled again
    2. Rechecked my Honda issued Service Manual for my 06 GL1800 Gold Wing. Chapter 4 page 9:
    THERE IS A TORQUE SPEC OF 18N-m's(1.8kgf-m, 13lbf-ft) W/NO REFERENCE TO NEW OR USED PLUGS NOR ANY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR PLUG INSTALL. NOR THE USE OF ANTI-SEIZE OR OTHER LUBE
    Now I'm confused, which is not hard to do. Makes my call to Honda Customer Service even more important to me!
    GatorWing, thanks for the PM, however there was no need for an apology as there was no offense taken. I value your comments, especially when they lead to the above finding of conflicting information, supposedly both from the same source Honda Corporation.
    Maybe a couple of our resident professionals will comment on their install of new and reused plugs
    Wouldn't 13 ft/lbs work regardless of whether the plug is new or old? If it's new the washer will crush before you get to 13 ft/lbs and once it flatens out, you would continue to torque until 13 ft/lbs is reached. The way I see it, the only difference is that you'll get to the torque quicker with a flatten washer but regardless of new or old, 13 ft/lbs is the correct torque. What am I missing?
    USMC 1968 - 1970

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    Seasoned Member tanman32225's Avatar
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    Wasn't there a thread here a short while back about using or not using anti seize? If I remember right it is only recommended if the threads are black and not silver in color. The silver threads are already coated with a metal that acts like an anti-seize whereas the black ones are not.
    We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid.



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    Seasoned Member Buzz Lightyear's Avatar
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    This is a very interesting post (I was going to say "thread", but thought better of it - LOL!). I am about to change out my plugs also, and am hoping the issue of correct torque of NEW plugs can be clarified!
    Santa Cruz Beach Boy
    2007 Dark Cherry Red/(Pearl Burgundy) GL1800: "Wings of Freedom"

  27. #26
    Seasoned Member Jchefboyardee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nycwinger View Post
    Thanks for the help fellas.

    @dptydawg, that's just the instructions i was looking for. My wing has about 48k and has never let me down. I usually pay my mechanic to do the work but this time i'm gonna tackle it. Why am i paying for something i could easily do myself, right? Thanks again for the tips..
    Get these and, Do many things by yourself!
    http://www.angelridevideos.com/gl1800.html
    #289 on the DARKSIDE If guns kill people, then pencils misspell words, cars make people drive drunk, and spoons made Rosie O' Donnell fat!

  28. #27
    lightley seasoned member jburd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nycwinger View Post
    Hey guys. I've been on here searching through the treads but can't seem to find any info on changing my spark plugs. I'm taking a long trip next month and i wanna replace the plugs before i leave. Where do i start? Any help would be appreciated, thanks..
    I hope somewhere in all the BS you got yous answer
    John

    2001 GL1800 base

    IBA # 25535

    "Could you explain that to me as if I we're a particulary gifted child or a golden retriever?"

  29. #28
    Seasoned Member Too Tall's Avatar
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    I put the plugs in. Tightened them to 13 ft/lbs. With the NKG, that was 3/4 of a turn after contacting the gasket. So the above concerns about not crushing the washer with 13 ft/lbs is not a worry to me. The service manual is pretty clear. It says inspect them and replace if necessary then torque them to 13 ft/lbs. The owners manual says if they are new turn 3/4 round then back them back out then tighten an 1/8 round after contacting. It seems to me, that's not the best way since you have already crushed the washer. Kind of like reusing the oil plug crush washer. ****, I hope I don't get flame for that. I personally think they are giving you a ballpark way of installing without a torque wrench. They even tell you to use the supplied spark plug wrench in the tool kit. Man, that piece of crap is going to be my last resort. I prefer the torque wrench method as I'm afraid of over torquing or under torquing. I don't see how you can go wrong with a torque wrench and the proper torque. That's exactly how the service manual says to do it.
    USMC 1968 - 1970

  30. #29
    Seasoned Member Too Tall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    Very interesting turn of events here
    1. Checked the Honda Owners Manual that came w/my 06 Wing.
    THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO TORQUE SPEC MENTIONED FOR PLUG INSTALL. ONLY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR THE REINSTALL OF USED PLUGS AND ROTATIONAL INFO FOR INITIAL INSTALL OF NEW PLUGS WHICH ARE THEN TO BE LOOSENED AND REINSTALLED TO A ROTATIONAL SETTING. NOR IS THERE ANY DIRECTION TO USE ANY KIND OF ANTI SEIZE OR ANY OTHER TYPE LUBRICANT. I have never installed new plugs, removed them and reinstalled again
    2. Rechecked my Honda issued Service Manual for my 06 GL1800 Gold Wing. Chapter 4 page 9:
    THERE IS A TORQUE SPEC OF 18N-m's(1.8kgf-m, 13lbf-ft) W/NO REFERENCE TO NEW OR USED PLUGS NOR ANY ROTATIONAL INFO FOR PLUG INSTALL. NOR THE USE OF ANTI-SEIZE OR OTHER LUBE
    Now I'm confused, which is not hard to do. Makes my call to Honda Customer Service even more important to me!
    GatorWing, thanks for the PM, however there was no need for an apology as there was no offense taken. I value your comments, especially when they lead to the above finding of conflicting information, supposedly both from the same source Honda Corporation.
    Maybe a couple of our resident professionals will comment on their install of new and reused plugs
    Personally, I think you got it right with 13 ft/lbs as the service manual states. I installed some plugs today and I can tell you the wrench made 3/4 round just at 13 ft/lbs.
    USMC 1968 - 1970

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    Seasoned Member fredfirefighter's Avatar
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    I can't remember where I got this info but it is the method I use,
    new plugs: tighten to about 15 ft lbs. or just enough to make sure the new washer is seated. lossen and retighten to finished torque of 13 ft lbs. I always use a torque wrench.

    Just a thought works good for me and makes sense.

    Fred
    US Navy 63-69
    07 Dark Blue Goldwing
    1994 Kwik Kamp camper

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