Wobble?
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  1. #1
    Seasoned Member Bucfan11's Avatar
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    Default Wobble?

    I have a wobble that appears while accelerating/maintaining/slowing between 40-50 mph that started a couple weeks ago. Any faster or slower and it's ok. I've been pulling my Hannigan for the last two weeks. I took it off today and noticed on my way to work that the wobble was not there. I thought my tires were starting to cup but looks like I was wrong. Any thoughts on what could cause this. Trailer has been empty.
    Rob

    PROWLER #105



    2008 Pearl White Navi GoldWing
    2008 Kawasaki Nomad- SOLD




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  3. #2
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    Hmmm, out of balance trailer tires, loose trailer tongue, loose suspension parts, loose lug nuts? I would take a good look at those items. Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

  4. #3
    Seasoned Member ALEXB's Avatar
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    Out-of-round trailer tire is my guess... That's what happened to mine.

    Shame on me, but I have an out-of-round trailer tire that have been using for around town... it pulls fine when loaded, yet hops a bit when the trailer is empty.
    "I void warranties"

    -Piaggio MP3-500, Darkside: NOKIAN 155/65/R14, 35 psi
    -GL1500 (1990 & 2000SE's):
    Rear: Darkside 175/60/16 Dunlop Wintersport ROF, 41psi
    Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi

    "Don't be afraid that your life will end, be afraid that it will never begin"

    KJ6QFZ
    Dark Side #590,

  5. #4
    Seasoned Member Macgyver0856's Avatar
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    air pressure in tires not the same? heavier in the rear of the trailer than the tongue? bent wheel or broken belt/cord in the tire carcass?
    "The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people; that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed"
    --Thomas Jefferson


    We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics.


  6. #5
    Seasoned Member Bucfan11's Avatar
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    The more I think about it the more I think the wobble started about the same time I checked/repacked my wheel bearings. I can't believe my mechanic is that bad but I'll be checking the wheels as soon as I get home from work.
    Rob

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    2008 Pearl White Navi GoldWing
    2008 Kawasaki Nomad- SOLD




  7. #6
    Seasoned Member Bucfan11's Avatar
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    OK, I got home and checked the tire pressure. 20 PSI in both, shocks are fine, lug nuts tight. I jacked up one side and tried the ol' side to side on the tire...no play. Jacked up the other side and did the same but there was a tiny, tiny bit of play. Yep, it was my idiot mechanic. The right side bearings was just a little loose. Instead of my normal tighten it pretty tight, loosen it, tighten it finger tight, then turn it 1/8ish a turn tighter. I thought I'd ask, What is the proper torque/technique to tighten the bearings?

    Signed,
    Idiot Mechanic
    Rob

    PROWLER #105



    2008 Pearl White Navi GoldWing
    2008 Kawasaki Nomad- SOLD




  8. #7
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    Default Trailer Wheel Bearings

    I've enclosed a page from the California Side Car Escapade manual about wheel bearing maintenance.

    I've always tightened the axle castle nut snuggly against the berings to seat the bearings and
    then backed the castle nut off to the first slot I could align with the cotter pin hole. I've had a Hannigan trailer
    and several Escapades and have always used this procedure. I feel your looser wheel bearing is set
    correctly. I've always gotten a manual with new Escapade trailers, but Hannigan didn't supply one. I believe
    both trailers use a similar size wheel bearing.

    You can download the Escapade manual here. http://www.californiasidecar.com/downloads/escapade.pdf



    WHEEL BEARING MAINTENANCE
    Wheel Bearing Removal:
    NOTE: Before starting the discussion of wheel bearing maintenance, please
    familiarize yourself with the standard roller bearing and the nomenclature used
    in the Owner’s Manual.
    1. Remove lug nuts and wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin, adjusting
    nut (castle nut) and washer from the wheel spindle.
    2. Pull the wheel hub towards you to loosen the outer bearing cone. Don’t
    Let the cone fall to the ground. As the hub is removed, the inner bearing
    and grease seal will come with it. Observe which direction the inner seal is
    facing. Pry out the inner seal and discard.
    3. Remove all old lubricant from the hub assembly and wheel spindle with
    kerosene or mineral spirits.
    CAUTION: do not use gasoline to clean and remove the old lubricant). Inspect
    the spindle for scoring, bending, thread or other damage. A light grease
    coating on the spindle will make bearing installation easier and prevent rust
    from forming.
    4. Inspect cups in the hub for pitting, metal flaking, scoring, rust or other obvious
    damage. Remove any damaged cups with a mild steel bar. Replace
    cups and cones in matched sets only; not one at a time.
    5. Use cup driver or mild steel bar to press or drive the new cup into the hub
    assembly until solidly seated against the hub shoulder. Be careful not to
    damage cup surface. NEVER use a cone to drive a cup.
    6. Using a long bristled brush and kerosene or mineral spirits, wash all old
    lubricant from cones. Allow to air dry.
    WARNING: Do not spin the bearings at any time with air gun because the
    rollers may escape through the cage and fly out from the bearing, thereby creating
    a risk of being struck.
    Once cleaned, inspect cones for wear, metal flaking, rust, cage damage or other
    visual damage. Replace all damaged cones with matching cups.
    7. Repack cones immediately after inspection or fresh from carton. To hand
    pack cones, force wheel bearing grease under the cage between the rollers
    from the large end of the rollers until it shows at the small end. Fill the hub
    with grease to the inside diameter of the cup.
    8. Install the repacked inner cone in hub (the cone which slides on the wheel
    spindle first), then install the new grease seal. Make sure the new seal
    faces in the same direction as the original; the lip should face the grease.
    Press fitting tools should have an outside diameter approximately .010"
    smaller than the hub bore size and for best results, the center of the tool
    should be open so that pressure is applied only at the outer edge.
    9. Position the seal properly on the hub and using a proper driving force,
    such as an arbor press or soft wood tapped with a hammer, apply force
    evenly around the outer edge. Once installed, check for alignment and any
    inadvertent installation damage.
    10. Lubricate the grease seal before attempting to install and slide wheel assembly
    back on spindle, being careful not to damage the seal against the
    spindle threads. Insert grease-packed outer cone, washer and adjusting nut.
    11. Tighten the adjusting nut (castle nut) by ¹/
    6 to ¼ turn or to the nearest locking
    hole, or sufficiently to allow the wheel to rotate freely within limits
    of .001" to .010" end play. Lock nut in this position using a NEW cotter
    pin.
    WARNING: FAILURE TO BACK OFF ADJUSTING NUT WILL CAUSE
    THE BEARING TO RUN "HOT" AND BE DAMAGED. THE WHEEL
    COULD THEN LOCK OR COME OFF DURING OPERATION!!!!!!
    Ray N.

    2013 Red ABS

  9. #8
    Seasoned Member OlBuddy's Avatar
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    I've always tightened the axle castle nut snuggly against the berings to seat the bearings and
    then backed the castle nut off to the first slot I could align with the cotter pin hole.
    Mr. Ray N . I totally agree with you. As a youngster many years ago I would purchase a $75 car for transportation. When I re-greased the front wheel brgs.,this was the way I tightened them. I never had any problems.

    Darksider #845

  10. #9
    Seasoned Member Bucfan11's Avatar
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    I tighten my bearing and went for a little ride...still the same so I removed all the bearings. I cleaned, greased and reinstalled them. Today we went for a little 200 mile ride with the wobble/vibration with us the whole time. I got home and crawled under there. I checked everything, it all looked new. I've checked tires, tongue, hitch, everything looks new. I removed the wheels and checked bearings again...seemed fine. I then took the wheels to Wal-Mart and asked them to balance them. The very young man tried but said the weights keep changing. I then purchased two new tires to replace the like new tires that were on it...IT FIXED IT! My Hannigan is smooth again! I was ready to trade it for my old HF trailer. What's the odds of a nearly new tire going bad right after you remove and lube the wheel bearings?
    Rob

    PROWLER #105



    2008 Pearl White Navi GoldWing
    2008 Kawasaki Nomad- SOLD




  11. #10
    Seasoned Member Macgyver0856's Avatar
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    like I said , probably a broken belt in the tire. glad you figured it out . be safe !
    "The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people; that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed"
    --Thomas Jefferson


    We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics.


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