FYI: Valve Clearance check @ 98,268 miles on '05 ABS
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Thread: FYI: Valve Clearance check @ 98,268 miles on '05 ABS

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    Default FYI: Valve Clearance check @ 98,268 miles on '05 ABS

    Three valve clearances for V4, V5 and V6 IN were off by ~.0005 but within spec.

    All other valve clearances were essentially on.

    The first time I checked valves, at 46,400 miles, one valve was out of spec so I brought it and 3 others to center spec. This time, I'm letting the three ride.

    Initially watching and then reviewing Mr. Harmon's DVDs for this process was huge. I doubt if I could have done this job without his guidance. Well, I would not have tried!

    I know there's been some discussion about de-tensioning vs not de-tensioning the cam chain. I tried it both ways this time. I feel my readings were somewhat more accurate with the chains de-tensioned, keeping in mind there's a degree of subjectivity interpreting the resistence of a feeler guage. Of course, the go / no go method clears up a lot of that subjectivity.

    Ride on.
    Bob Evans
    Indiana Dunes
    (~Chesterton, IN)

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    Glad to hear they were checked and de-tensioned. If they had been adjusted, most will say the motor response is snapier. You may not want to wait 32k to check them again since those 3 are just a *unt hair from being to tight. A motor with them all center spected is a noticably smoother running motor.

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    Seasoned Member CJS's Avatar
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    I wish someone would do a valve check on a brand new or very low mileage Goldwing. We worry about center spec, but we're not sure how close they were to spec when brand new. It seems that those that have checked theirs more than once have not reported any significant change from inspection to inspection. It may be that what we are seeing when we check them at 40-70,000 miles is the essentially the same settings they came from the factory with. Having toured the Anna engine plant in Ohio when the engines were still being built there, I didn't notice or recall seeing that the clearance were checked. It seemed that they were assembled with the parts that were provided and assumed within spec and that was it.
    I'm not complaining or casting any aspersions, just wondering.
    I sure hope we can start riding soon, so I can quit wondering about all these things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJS View Post
    I wish someone would do a valve check on a brand new or very low mileage Goldwing. We worry about center spec, but we're not sure how close they were to spec when brand new. It seems that those that have checked theirs more than once have not reported any significant change from inspection to inspection. It may be that what we are seeing when we check them at 40-70,000 miles is the essentially the same settings they came from the factory with. Having toured the Anna engine plant in Ohio when the engines were still being built there, I didn't notice or recall seeing that the clearance were checked. It seemed that they were assembled with the parts that were provided and assumed within spec and that was it.
    I'm not complaining or casting any aspersions, just wondering.
    I sure hope we can start riding soon, so I can quit wondering about all these things.
    I am betting they would not be dead on from the factory.

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    Seasoned Member Fitter Guy's Avatar
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    After watching Fred work on his, the ones he changed to get within spec had different size spacers. They were either changed once before or when built at the factory someone checked the gap and decided what size was needed to be in spec. All I'm saying is I would think that when it left the factory it was within their spec.
    I like the fact that this 05 has 90 some thousand on it and valves still ok. I was thinking of checking mine but with 32k I'm not going to worry about the valves for a long time.
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    A number of years ago when I worked part time at the local Honda dealer as a service writer, all new bikes were brought back in for the 600 mile check up. Among many tings done, a valve check and adjustment was a part of this service. Wouldn't it stand to reason that many of the bikes sold have had the valves checked already? Or don't they do this anymore?

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    Seasoned Member goldwing fan's Avatar
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    I had my first vavle check done at 60K all were in spec the Honda dealer mechanic told me So just recently at 125K me and my mechanic mate checked them again still all with in spec only 1 exuast was a bees dick tight but nothing to worry about my mate said i check them again in another 60K or so but i doubt it will ever change

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    Quote Originally Posted by TravelinLite View Post
    I am betting they would not be dead on from the factory.
    YOU CANNOT BE SERIOUS. The factory definitely "center specs" the valves for a smoother running engine.

    Sorry, just kidding. I was drinking too much kool-aid.

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    No, the valves on my new '05 were not checked by the selling dealer at the initial oil change/inspection.

    Again, at 46,400 miles I had one valve out of spec. 4 others were off but still within spec. Was it like this from the factory? I don't know. But it sure seems worthwhile checking them at 32,000 miles (or so!) just to be on the safe side.

    I agree that the bike seemed to run better after centering all of the clearances but I also allowed that may have my my exuberant imagination at work! I also think the bike runs smoother after an oil change...

    I've posted this before and will say it again, the Wing seems to be running smoother and stronger as the miles pile on. Or perhaps I'm getting senile?!
    Bob Evans
    Indiana Dunes
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve F View Post
    A number of years ago when I worked part time at the local Honda dealer as a service writer, all new bikes were brought back in for the 600 mile check up. Among many tings done, a valve check and adjustment was a part of this service. Wouldn't it stand to reason that many of the bikes sold have had the valves checked already? Or don't they do this anymore?
    As for the Wing ... I think because of better metals, oils, and motor designs, doing a 600 mile check with a valve adjustment is no longer needed. I do remember when I had a new 81 850GL Susuki, I took it back for the 600 mile service and could not beleive how much better the m/c was after having the valves adjusted and all the cables too. At 600 miles it felt like a differant bike. Also back then, many things like brakes used cables that stretch a lot at first.

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    Seasoned Member weengers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
    As for the Wing ... I think because of better metals, oils, and motor designs, doing a 600 mile check with a valve adjustment is no longer needed. I do remember when I had a new 81 850GL Susuki, I took it back for the 600 mile service and could not beleive how much better the m/c was after having the valves adjusted and all the cables too. At 600 miles it felt like a differant bike. Also back then, many things like brakes used cables that stretch a lot at first.
    I'd bet the better running had more to do with carb syncronizing.
    I'd also speculate that we would not be able to tell the difference between a perfectly center spec'ed valve train and one at the limits. I would love to see dyno result of a GL1800 with that being the only change, both a tight and loose spec and then centered.
    But I'm just guessin'.

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    Quote Originally Posted by storm View Post
    You are 100% right and I am sure the dyno would prove no change
    I don't think that adjusting the valves has anything to do with performance as much as valve longevity and preventing a catastrophic failure....burned valves and valvetrain wear.

    "To Ride Is The Reason...The Destination's The Excuse"

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    Not trying to hijack this thread. But do you buy a shim kit or just go to the dealer and get the shims you need? The reason I ask is the dealer here has almost nothing and it would be irritating to wait a week to get shims.
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    Quote Originally Posted by weengers View Post
    I'd bet the better running had more to do with carb syncronizing.
    I'd also speculate that we would not be able to tell the difference between a perfectly center spec'ed valve train and one at the limits. I would love to see dyno result of a GL1800 with that being the only change, both a tight and loose spec and then centered.
    But I'm just guessin'.

    That brings back some memories of "Being One with your Motorcycle"! Every 3,000 miles I would replace the spark plugs, check/adjust the valves and sync the carbs on my '72 CB750K2 along with an Oil & Filter change! Ran smooth as silk, tires and chain needed replacing almost as often... Nowadays I put gas in every 300-400 miles (11.6 gallon capacity) and change the oil and filter every 5,000-7,500 miles on my '05 GL1800A. Tires last 4+ times as long as the ones I used on my 750! This Goldwing requires about as much maintenance as my 2003 Honda Accord (Almost none!)
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    Quote Originally Posted by storm View Post
    I checked mine at 105k and they were all withing spec. De-tension will not effect the readings and is another myth.
    So, as I was just watching Freds disc on checking valve clearance last night.... Are you certain that its not necessary to de-tension the cam chains when checking clearance? Is so, that saves some time from having to pull the pain in the butt lower cowl and other body work to get to the release for the chain....
    One thing about an 1800 Wing: It does EVERYTHING GOOD!!!!!
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    Seasoned Member Wingdreamer's Avatar
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    The other question I had, was that in every other engine that I have checked valve clearance, I have never followed the procedure of rotating the engine to TDC or as designated. I simply rotate the engine till the cam lobe is visually 180 degrees opposite the valve (or in this case, the shim/bucket), then do my measurement. As I have done this many time before with rocker arm-designed valve trains, is there any reason why this simple procedure cant be used on the 1800?
    One thing about an 1800 Wing: It does EVERYTHING GOOD!!!!!
    Proud owner of my third Wing:
    2001 GL1800A in Pearl Apollo Blue!
    Previous rides:
    1995 GL1500 SE, 1985 GL1200 I, 1982 V45 Sabre, 1982 CB750K, 1973 KZ350, and a boat load of off-road screamers!

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    Seasoned Member Wingdreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by storm View Post
    Your method is correct and exactly what you should do.
    Yes, watched Freds video, and thought that pulling the center timing cover plug to access/view the timing marks was one extra step that wasnt necessary. Liked the idea of using the rear wheel to bump the engine around though!

    So, if I dont have to loosen the cam tensioner, I should be able to just pull both valve covers, rotate engine as needed and check clearances? No plastic removal needed? ?? Really hate pulling that crap off if I dont need to......
    One thing about an 1800 Wing: It does EVERYTHING GOOD!!!!!
    Proud owner of my third Wing:
    2001 GL1800A in Pearl Apollo Blue!
    Previous rides:
    1995 GL1500 SE, 1985 GL1200 I, 1982 V45 Sabre, 1982 CB750K, 1973 KZ350, and a boat load of off-road screamers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TravelinLite View Post
    I am betting they would not be dead on from the factory.

    I hope they are more acurate with the valve adj. then they are with the cruise control adj.
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    Quote Originally Posted by weengers View Post
    I'd bet the better running had more to do with carb syncronizing.
    I'd also speculate that we would not be able to tell the difference between a perfectly center spec'ed valve train and one at the limits. I would love to see dyno result of a GL1800 with that being the only change, both a tight and loose spec and then centered.
    But I'm just guessin'.
    Actually ... you can test it yourself without a dyno. Most (not all) are in tune enough with their Wing to feel the differance. To test, pull your covers, don't detension, and adjust some valves at a min and some others at max. Allow it to warm up and take it for a ride. The next day, do the same but this time detension both cams as required, center spec them all, and then test ride it as before and report back what your finding are. That's all I've ever done as well as reported what others report back to me regaurding their valve adjustment.

    As for carb syncronization. None is needed on GL1800s, we have computer controled system and the air flows through throttle bodies.
    Last edited by GoldWingrGreg; 04-15-2013 at 03:37 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
    Actually ... you can test it yourself without a dyno. Most (not all) are in tune enough with their Wing to feel the differance. To test, pull your covers, don't detension, and adjust some valves at a min and some others at max. Allow it to warm up and take it for a ride. The next day, do the same but this time detension both cams as required, center spec them all, and then test ride it as before and report back what your finding are. That's all I've ever done as well as reported what others report back to me regaurding their valve adjustment...
    Yea, that is not going to happen, and my car runs better after I wash it too.

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
    ...As for carb syncronization. None is needed on GL1800s, we have computer controled system and the air flows through throttle bodies.
    NO DUH!

    But you were talking about a 1981 Suzuki, remember, please try to stay on the same page.

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWingrGreg View Post
    ... I do remember when I had a new 81 850GL Susuki, I took it back for the 600 mile service and could not beleive how much better the m/c was after having the valves adjusted and all the cables too. At 600 miles it felt like a differant bike. Also back then, many things like brakes used cables that stretch a lot at first.
    Last edited by weengers; 04-15-2013 at 04:11 PM.

    Mike
    Darksider International #51
    Link to Murgies Car Tire Info - Lots of good stuff
    2003 Silver GL1800 - soon to be for sale
    2010 Metallic Red - got a ways to go before it is as good as the '03

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    Quote Originally Posted by weengers View Post
    Yea, that is not going to happen, and my car runs better after I wash it too.

    Humm .... never heard of a car running better after a wash.

    NO DUH!

    But you were talking about a 1981 Suzuki, remember, please try to stay on the same page.
    As for the Suzuki ... yes that could easily be from the carbs sync.

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