I don't remove it, I use a turkey baster to stick down the fill neck and suck it out. The hoses on it are a pain in the butt to mess with anyway. If you put it on the side stand, you can get almost all of it out.

 

Techdude is a MASTER of understatement:

The hoses on it are a pain in the butt to mess with anyway.

and he is right on (AGAIN) with his recommendation. THe first time I changed my coolant I took the stupid tank off and had a devil of a time getting the hoses back on.

So now, it's the turkey baster approach every time.

Good luck

 

Thank you Techdude2000. That's what I was hoping for, but ready for the "worst."

 

Not sure if this would apply to pre 2012 models or not but a word of caution. My 2013 model with forward blowing radiator fans will make a mess if you happen to spill any down the side of the radiator. When the fans come on for the first time anything spilled will be blown forward. What a mess that was.:banghead:

 

Oh yes for sure!!! Been there done that... lol it must collect in fins when we over fill then when those fans kick in make it look like a hose broke.... lol

 

If you have (or have access to) an Air Compressor that can hit at least 90 PSI; the use of the AirLift Tool Set (or one like it) makes flushing and changing the coolant in a Goldwing much easier.
You may also find that new "friends" may present themselves to you if/when the possession of this tool is disclosed. LOL
The Part Number of the AirLift version I have is 550000. Also, FWIW, I have no interest or connection with this tool company. I think I got the one I have for a bit under $100 via eBay. Prices are all over the map. IMHO a bit of careful shopping is well worth it.

 

100% agree. I've had mine for years and have changed the coolant on dozens of cars and bikes and this tool makes the refill process a snap. I can refill the bike in about 30 seconds using the UView Airlift.

 

Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself one of THESE brake bleeders. Not only does it make draining your coolant reservoir SUPER easy, but you also use it to bleed your brakes.

I've been using mine for years and have bled the brakes of dozens and dozens of bikes, cars and drained the coolant reservoir on the bikes and cars and it works great. Just be sure you have an air compressor handy. :grin2:

 

Try this.

Leave the radiator cap on and remove the drain bolt. As the coolant drains out the siphon action should suck most if not all of the coolant out of the tank. What is left will mix with the new quite well unless the old has been in there longer than 2 yrs. then use the baster to remove the rest. If it is real old I would add distilled water to the tank and shake it up to rinse the tank sides then use the baster to remove remains from tank.

Good luck

 

I have a 3/8" clear hose I use to siphon the tank out. I'll put water in it a few times and siphon to remove all old anti-freeze. I then sit the new bottle of antifreeze up on the shelf and use the hose to siphon the new antifreeze into the radiators. EASY!

 

Refilling the radiator, there is a small bolt holding the filler neck down. Remove that bolt and stuff a rag under the neck to prop it up a few inches. That improves the angle of the hose so the coolant flows in a lot better and the rag catches your "pour aim".:wink2:

 

Great idea next time for sure!!!

 

Wow. Wonderful responses. I used the "turkey baster" method, although I really just used a clear plastic/vinyl hose to siphon the coolant out of the tank, and then siphoned new coolant into the tank.

I think the previous owner had not serviced the coolant recently, as the reserve tank was virtually empty; nothing showing on the dip stick. Total fluid removed (radiator and tank) amounted to 3 3/4 qts. I was only able to 1 gal back into it. Yes, I did the air bleeding procedure until I could not get the coolant to fall below the radiator neck any further. I then filled the reserve tank.

To all who have given helpful suggestions, I thank you.

I put rags around the filler neck to prevent fluid from dribbling down the radiator. It was fortuitous that I did so. When I removed the rags there was a fair amount of coolant in the rags. When I started the motor I did not have the unhappy experience of flying coolant.

 

Wow. Wonderful responses. I used the "turkey baster" method, although I really just used a clear plastic/vinyl hose to siphon the coolant out of the tank, and then siphoned new coolant into the tank.

I think the previous owner had not serviced the coolant recently, as the reserve tank was virtually empty; nothing showing on the dip stick. Total fluid removed (radiator and tank) amounted to 3 3/4 qts. I was only able to 1 gal back into it. Yes, I did the air bleeding procedure until I could not get the coolant to fall below the radiator neck any further. I then filled the reserve tank.

To all who have given helpful suggestions, I thank you.

I put rags around the filler neck to prevent fluid from dribbling down the radiator. It was fortuitous that I did so. When I removed the rags there was a fair amount of coolant in the rags. When I started the motor I did not have the unhappy experience of flying coolant.

Good deal. I chalk my experience up to rookie mistake.:grin2:

 

I just hooked up my wet&dry shop vac to a small flexible hose. Zip zap, done. :wink2:

 

If I didn't have the air lift I would do what most people do & leave the coolant in there for the next 100 years. :laugh:

 

I just changed my coolant about 2 weeks ago. I used Honda Car coolant type 2.
1. Strangest thing, but what came out of my bike was "green coolant"! I thought it was supposed to be blue? I do not recall anyone changing my coolant, let alone someone other than the dealer. I don't think anyone other than a dealer has worked on my bike.
Totally threw me!
2. What I read, refereed to an O-ring at the drain. I never say an O-ring. Looked more like a crush washer? I hope I didn't drop that somewhere. Is it an O-ring, or a crush washer? I fear I'll hear there is an O-ring.
3. reservoir tank was a bit of a hassle. Not as bad as I feared, but a bit of a problem.

 

As said before the "O-ring" is a washer; so it says in the service manual.

The Honda Type 2 coolant you put in is what is being used by Honda in their Honda HP Coolant, too. At least as far as I can tell. I asked the service guys at my local Honda motorcycle store if the new Honda HP was blue or green. They told me it was blue. I, too, purchase my coolant from the Honda car dealership in one gallon jugs. It's much less expensive.

 

1. = Green coolant is in older wings, New ones, I don't know if they changed to blue in 2018, but either is ok and they are compatible.

2. = crush washer, no o-ring

 

Thanks! I seen the green coolant and assumed the dealer just cheaped out on me when he last changed it. It's a 2009, so it isn't that old, but I guess it's older than I thought it was, once I start doing the math.

Then the washer deal was another brain freezer. I have the plug/bolt in hand and all I see is the typical crush type washer becoming one with the bolt. I can't find any O-ring!!! Here we go again, I thought. Always something.
I didn't see any leaking, so I guess I'm okay.

Thanks all, for the info!

 

Unfortunately, there is no way to know the tube level's condition, or the recovery tank's condition unless the recovery tank is removed. Once it is removed, be sure to clean it for a proper inspection. Here is a picture of one found with a hole in it that would have never been found unless it was removed. Tube levels and recovery hoses are common parts that are often replaced as miles rack on and a Wing's age gets older.

 

I am the odd man out on this one. I remove the recovery tank and wash it. The fastener is easy to find. I reach under the bike from the LEFT side and use my hand to feel my way over to the far right side of the tank were the bolt is in the middle of the ledge embossed into the tank. The tank drops down and the clamps cane be removed to free the tank. If the siphon hose is brittle, I tape new hose to it and pull the new hose up to the radiator filler neck with the old hose as the fish line. I have to admit that using the U-View sure beats the H377 out of standing the bike up on its front end to drain.


prs

 

I like the airlift and recommend it. As to removing the tank, it's one 6mm bolt that takes 30 seconds to remove. Take off the rubber fill cap to make pulling the plastic tank easier. Only one hose needs to removed from the tank, the other hose can be left attached and when the tank is pulled off, the tank and hose come off together. I'm not a maintenance overboard type guy, but removing the tank, cleaning and reinstall may take 10 minutes max, so might as well do it.

 

Suck the old fluid out then add clean water to dilute any remaining fluid, then repeat as necessary Easy peasy.